Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah the next package will be pure insanity and super special i cant wait!

I can tell you from the drivers seat that the 2.8L is absolutely insane it free revs like an roadbike engine! A tiny blip on the throttle and the needle shoots off to redline as quick as you can blink! In any gear from 2nd gear and 4000rpm HANG THE f**k ON to that steering wheel as shit around you gets blurry and things start coming up REALLY fast!

Ive been in all kinds of wound up stock 2.6s and nothing is remotely as ferocious as this thing is! If you think that your 500kw 2.6L will touch this car you're dreaming as it just makes grunt like nothing I've ever experienced its sad to see it go as it really is a rare engine and theres definitely not another engine around like this thing.

buy it then

this ^ has now got me intrigued

Im gonna guess and say that he's going for RB 3.5, with GTX2863r with -5 comp housings, OS88 tranny in an R34 GTR

Nope.

The same head (still need to work out if I take out both squish pads or just the intake like this one had), OS 3.15, V cam with a EFR 8374 or 9180 hanging off the side of it.

I just need to sell this engine first so I can order the bottom end and get the head started. I spoke to Marcus last night about it all. I'll just buy a brand new stock head in Japan to save shipping costs and do what needs to be done over there. Cams, springs, retainers and assembly can be done here. Plonk it on the bottom end and just wait for the right car to pop up.

Box, brakes, ECU, intercooler, front and rear diffs, suspension arms and suspension itself will be taken from the 33 as it all bolts straight in. It's always been the plan so the effort that I've put into the 33 isn't in vain. Pretty much the outlay will only be for the car itself. 90% of the parts I either have or will be already covered by the sale of what I have now (IE engine).

If I put the box in the 33 I'll just never do it so it's pretty much a now or never.

I did some rough calcs assuming I used the same head as I have (intake squish removed only) and assuming a 0 deck height (still waiting on confirmation from OS GIKEN as to what it is) with the Nismo 0.9 mm gasket. Compression was 9.88:1. Sounds good to me with it running on E85. On petrol I'll have to pull boost out of it but who gives a shit.

It's not going to happen overnight but there will be no shortcuts, "hurry I need to make an event" or "rushed jobs".

  • Like 1

Nope.

The same head (still need to work out if I take out both squish pads or just the intake like this one had), OS 3.15, V cam with a EFR 8374 or 9180 hanging off the side of it.

I just need to sell this engine first so I can order the bottom end and get the head started. I spoke to Marcus last night about it all. I'll just buy a brand new stock head in Japan to save shipping costs and do what needs to be done over there. Cams, springs, retainers and assembly can be done here. Plonk it on the bottom end and just wait for the right car to pop up.

Box, brakes, ECU, intercooler, front and rear diffs, suspension arms and suspension itself will be taken from the 33 as it all bolts straight in. It's always been the plan so the effort that I've put into the 33 isn't in vain. Pretty much the outlay will only be for the car itself. 90% of the parts I either have or will be already covered by the sale of what I have now (IE engine).

If I put the box in the 33 I'll just never do it so it's pretty much a now or never.

I did some rough calcs assuming I used the same head as I have (intake squish removed only) and assuming a 0 deck height (still waiting on confirmation from OS GIKEN as to what it is) with the Nismo 0.9 mm gasket. Compression was 9.88:1. Sounds good to me with it running on E85. On petrol I'll have to pull boost out of it but who gives a shit.

It's not going to happen overnight but there will be no shortcuts, "hurry I need to make an event" or "rushed jobs".

why don't you just keep the head you already have Paul instead of doing it all over again. That would save you a considerable amount of cash and time.

why don't you just keep the head you already have Paul instead of doing it all over again. That would save you a considerable amount of cash and time.

Because the bloke that wants it, wants the head also.

Because the bloke that wants it, wants the head also.

You must have something very special in mind if you are selling THAT HEAD !

You said it was the best head job you ever had :wub:

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish
  • Like 2

Try build it for that price though, good luck!

Wasn't advertised, just word of mouth and went to very appreciative owner.

What people don't get is that to get the sort of responsive power that Pauls engine has costs $$$ and time.

Anyone can build a peak power engine but to build one that gives you that nice big fat torque hit sorts the real engine builders out from the wannabees. Straight line grunt, pfft...you want a drivers car that gives race engine performance every time the loud pedal gets touched and will do it all day long.

You can bang your head all day arguing the point but proof is best kept to actual bum in seat feel but all passengers must wear a nappy as you'll soon get sick of cleaning shit stains off the passenger seat.

What Paul's planning now will be a very special and unique package and engines like these are far and few between because there are no short cuts, plain and simple they cost $$$, a lot of time and frustration.

post-26741-14269917278742_thumb.jpg

:D:D:D

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So with this new build Paul, have you considered getting GTRNUR (sorry don't know his real name) to do you up one of his big open deck spacer engines to retain your flash RRR block and your head you already have? Or is it not going to be a cost effective way of looking at it?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So with this new build Paul, have you considered getting GTRNUR (sorry don't know his real name) to do you up one of his big open deck spacer engines to retain your flash RRR block and your head you already have? Or is it not going to be a cost effective way of looking at it?

I have a few guys interested in my engine so it needs to go complete.

I'd like to retain the GT block but it's will just complicate things and make it all soooo much more expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...