Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For anyone else playing along re timing issue. 

A good unbiased thread here. 

Unsurprisingly issues occurs on a number of ECUs, not limited to Haltech, and even features our OP(and others) claiming the same issue on a PowerFC, madness... 

Seems like most ECU manufacturers and Tuners were aware of and had produces solutions to address it, including modified/better CAS discs, crank triggers, etc.  

Too much was said for me to not look into it as a precaution - So thanks for that even if your caps are flat. 


 

I am probably as far from a flat clapper as you can get!

Yes it is an issue with not just Haltech, motec m800 and earlier, link etc all suffer from it.

With a good CAS and good signal wires PFC, Nistune and Adaptronic won't suffer from it, if you get really bored you can listen to a youtube video or post Andy from Adaptronic made about it too. So for a plug in ECU designed for that engine I think it's a rubbish ECU choice if you need to fit aftermarket sensors.

It's always to learn something new :D

 

 

Haltech "claim" not an issue with Platinum Pro, but was a problem on earlier ECUs, guess I'll find out it ever happens. 

So I guess the bombshell here is old shit can be problematic... but new shit has less issues.. Who knew!

 

2 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Haltech "claim" not an issue with Platinum Pro, but was a problem on earlier ECUs, guess I'll find out it ever happens. 

So I guess the bombshell here is old shit can be problematic... but new shit has less issues.. Who knew!

 

LOL it's defiantly a problem with the Platinum pro, even worse with the Elite range but I won't tag Jono Pace in this thread for him to rage about them. 

Don't always believe the marking bullshit that comes from a manufacturer, i am sure you tuner would have tuned you car extremely safe up top if it was showing any issues.

Just now, ActionDan said:

He might have given me an ear bashing on FB about it already?

Wonder why my car hasn't seen it. Maybe the key is don't drive it. 

it may well have it, you can tune around it to a degree or just ignore it like most do.

Just now, ActionDan said:

That must be it then, I can't there being any possibility that it's just working properly. 

I'll be ready to replace the ECU when I put my TH400 in.

 

 

Just put a crank trigger kit on it!

You will need it for the 1000hp and your TH400

  • Like 1

Setup a real crank trigger.

Throw OEM CAS disc in the bin. Fit an aftermarket disc.

 

Run whatever ECU you want or as many Haltech products as your passenger footwell can fit. Job done.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...