Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

Apparently 480 AWKW was the most power out of a 8374 awkw (out of an Evo) Scott has seen on his dyno.

Nick (3.0/8374) went 461, 24 psi

Pete (3.2/vcam/8374) went 457awkw, 25 psi tapering back to 21 psi (120,000 turbine speed).

I don't know. It's all dictated by that magic 127,000 RPM turbine speed. What will be more interesting will be the boost level that it'll need to get there. Going off the -5 setup, it went 441 at 19 psi. Realistically, I should have just left it there.  Boost level I'm gonna peg at no more then 25 psi, tapering back down. 

How does that power compare with Garrets and Precision etc on same dyno? Sounds lower than I would expect but apples with apples

39 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

How does that power compare with Garrets and Precision etc on same dyno? Sounds lower than I would expect but apples with apples

I'd have to ask Scott, Simon. Haven't really asked to be honest. Pete did a back to back between a 6266/0.84 to a 8374/1.05 but the car was pretty ill when it arrived. Having driven that car in both setups, the 8374 belts it for the stuff you can't see on the dyno. Your assume the 6266 with its 0.84 ass end would be stronger down low, that is most definately not the case, let alone the transient stuff. 

If his car was anything to go off, the PTE needed 28 psi to make 460 kw and the EFR needed 21 psi to make 457. *Different dynos though.

A 9180 blows about 550 kw on that dyno for example before it taps out due to speed.

A Gen 2 3582R, PTE 6266 and a 8374 comparison would be awesome. But the fab work involved makes it a very expensive exercise.

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

I'd have to ask Scott, Simon. Haven't really asked to be honest. Pete did a back to back between a 6266/0.84 to a 8374/1.05 but the car was pretty ill when it arrived. Having driven that car in both setups, the 8374 belts it for the stuff you can't see on the dyno. Your assume the 6266 with its 0.84 ass end would be stronger down low, that is most definately not the case, let alone the transient stuff. 

If his car was anything to go off, the PTE needed 28 psi to make 460 kw and the EFR needed 21 psi to make 457. *Different dynos though.

A 9180 blows about 550 kw on that dyno for example before it taps out due to speed.

A Gen 2 3582R, PTE 6266 and a 8374 comparison would be awesome. But the fab work involved makes it a very expensive exercise.

Honestly I'd have given a EFR8374 a go if it wasn't for all the fab... Instead I seem to be stuck with the 6262 (not being a bad thing) but now I'm up to 5 sets of cams that have been in the car haha

Latest better be awesome considering I've gone backwards 4 times in some way shape or form

3 hours ago, SimonR32 said:

Honestly I'd have given a EFR8374 a go if it wasn't for all the fab... Instead I seem to be stuck with the 6262 (not being a bad thing) but now I'm up to 5 sets of cams that have been in the car haha

Latest better be awesome considering I've gone backwards 4 times in some way shape or form

5 sets of cam setups? What are you chasing to warrant 5 different setups? You could have had a EFR setup with change.

9 hours ago, Piggaz said:

I'd have to ask Scott, Simon. Haven't really asked to be honest. Pete did a back to back between a 6266/0.84 to a 8374/1.05 but the car was pretty ill when it arrived. Having driven that car in both setups, the 8374 belts it for the stuff you can't see on the dyno. Your assume the 6266 with its 0.84 ass end would be stronger down low, that is most definately not the case, let alone the transient stuff. 

If his car was anything to go off, the PTE needed 28 psi to make 460 kw and the EFR needed 21 psi to make 457. *Different dynos though.

A 9180 blows about 550 kw on that dyno for example before it taps out due to speed.

A Gen 2 3582R, PTE 6266 and a 8374 comparison would be awesome. But the fab work involved makes it a very expensive exercise.

I really hope mine spins more than 550, be a fair bit off where I want to be. 

 

That speed "cap" is a pain. 

Owell only one way to find out ?

7 minutes ago, fatz said:

What happens when you pop a ic pipe at 25psi and over speed them? 

 

Boom? 

I doubt the boom is that inevitable, I'm fairly sure a mate had that exact thing happen on his EFR8374 drift car after he first went to one and he just lost power and his heart sunk because of the stories about overspeeding - but then realised what happened, got it sorted and carried on.  Car is still going strong.

Worth avoiding, obviously - but not necessarily immediate death.  Much the same as how you have people running around with boost leaks all over the place with stock ceramic turbo Nissans who never realised it.  I guess not having the full load on the turbo MAY take some of the edge off?

 

Edited by Lithium
2 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Lol!  

How is your car going?

Slowly. Motor is almost there I am told then its off for fab work before wiring and then tune.

Maybe July...

1 minute ago, Lithium said:

You staying with the EFR party?

I've gone a 6870 1.15 rear for now as I wanted over 600awkw. It looks like the 9280 will do the power I want when it is released so I plan on swapping back at that point.

I just wanna go fast

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, fatz said:

What happens when you pop a ic pipe at 25psi and over speed them? 

 

Boom? 

I spose sensor back to ecu, if it falls out of "x" parameters then have some sort of protection in place... whatever that may be.

What am I missing with these EFRs? 

I thought you just took a look at the comp map, aimed for a decent efficiency island for your power goal, as you do with any turbo choice, and that was that?

Can't think of when I've seen people talking about turbine speed so intently with other brands. Are the EFRs particularly sensitive to overspeeding? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...