Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

My apologies I forgot to put how much I was willing to spend basically it doesn't worry me I want what's best for the engine Redline or Motul 300V Chrono seem like the best sort of option am I correct ? :)

As long as the oil is changed at 5,000km or every 6 months (whatever comes first) anything I listed or others have listed are perfectly fine. Motul 300V and Redline are the best and you said you wanted the best (comes at a big price).

Personally anything I listed in the good or better category I would use on my GTR when doing street driving. Better or Best I would use at the track, it's overkill for a street driven car.

As far as my quick google check, HPR is a full synthetic by marketing (containing the minimum percent of mixed PAO synthetic), not a true Group IV oil. Which means it belongs in amongst the Group III oils, but the 10 Tenths range is a true synthetic (mix of PAO and esters )

Nulon Full synthetic is another example, not a true group IV synthetic, but it meets the minimum percent of synthetic stock to be marketed as such.

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

Exactly

OP needs to say what the car is mainly going to be used for. If its just around town nothing wrong with motul turbolight. I use 8100 x-cess which is pretty good

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

my two reccomendations exactly... unless the motor is making big power and is tracked then there is no point spending more coin. as it's just a waste.

I would add to this castrol edge 10w60 though if the car is going to be spending long periods on the limiter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So you're telling me this is an external fuel pump? I've had the car for at least 6 years now and it's been there the entire time. I had the car tuned a couple years ago and I had the shop do the fuel system, including a new in-tank Proflow 340 which shit itself about a year later and I replaced it with the same model. I find it odd that they didn't remove this or even make mention of it. I seriously had no idea what it was. How would I test if it's functioning?
    • Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.
    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
×
×
  • Create New...