Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys !

I notice I derailed this thread with talks about my issue, so I created a thread which can be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/421565-jeremys-r33-issue-splutter/

I'll post up my progress with videos and pictures along the way. First time working on a skyline, let alone a car (quite exciting).

Cheers,

Jeremy

Edited by Jeremy90
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I am also selling some wheels...

Vertini McLaren Rims - 20" x 8.5, 5x114.3, +42

$1,000 ONO.

Pics and more info can be found here:

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/amaroo/wheels-tyres-rims/for-sale-swap-vertini-mclaren-rims-20-x-8-5-5x114-3-42/1015076407

Edited by Brad54

Hi guys got some more stuff for sale need to sort out some bills

Used R33 rear camber and traction adjustable arms bought from trojan $200 for both

factory side skirts for a r33 s2 in grey $150

i have some 5 spoke gold rims for sale gutter rash on 3 of them tires are shot, the fit r33 ect $300

R33 turbo brakes front and rear with new seals and near new TRW pads $400

i'm negotiable feel free to pm

Edited by Greekos
  • 2 weeks later...
WEDS Wheels.


17x9 +38 rear, 16x8 +30 front.. double stagger!


Federal 595 RS rear (before RSR) 225/45r17 80% tread

Yokohama Advan AD07 front (some flat spotting on left) 225/45r16 70% tread


Very cool wheels, 4x114.3 and 5x114.3. Asking $790 with tyres.


Sorry about the crappy pictures, will get some better ones this week

2012-05-11111111.jpg

400409_10150488880905911_561875910_93311

2012-01-20163229.jpg

Selling genuine Nissan GTR Master Clutch cylinder. Bought it from Lennock but didn't end up needing it, still in packaging. Will let it go for $240 which is $20 cheaper than trade price from Nissan and $70 cheaper than JustJap. Will fit all 32, 33, 34 GTR's :touch:

Putting up my seats as an EOI as I am going to upgrade to Brides;

Pair of R33 GTR S2 front seats, they dont have a mark on them but the reclining mechanism is rusted so you cant change the seat positioning but you can let rear passengers in.

PM me offers, Cheers !

Putting up my seats as an EOI as I am going to upgrade to Brides;

Pair of R33 GTR S2 front seats, they dont have a mark on them but the reclining mechanism is rusted so you cant change the seat positioning but you can let rear passengers in.

PM me offers, Cheers !

you can change the position, its just the thin wire that connects to the rail lock thats munted

you can still unhook the lock with pliers and slide fine :yes:

I see you fell in love sitting in my brides aye ;)

Doing a massive price drop on the Cressida to $1300 with all the wheels I have for it plus what ever spares I can find.

Can put 3 months rego on it for extra.

Really need it gone so I can have the carport and shed back.

Doing a massive price drop on the Cressida to $1300 with all the wheels I have for it plus what ever spares I can find.

Can put 3 months rego on it for extra.

Really need it gone so I can have the carport and shed back.

Pics and stuff on this? Pm me if its easier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...