Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go to bunnings and buy a benzo torch and gently warm up the gear and slide it off. Wont take much but Jesus christ you need to be careful doing it as to not heat the crank. They usually come off easy as

Once the cog is heated up do you just remove the gear off the shaft by hand or you still need some assistance?

ok no succes yet, I have drilled and taped the gear and used 6mm bolts on a stanley sterring pulley.. anyway i bent the stanly stearing puller.. so i grabbed a flat pri bar spent an hour dilling that out and used that as a make shift puller.. bent that aswell untill i stripped the thread i had mad in the cog. During this process i was heating up and cooling the crank shaft see if that will bude (just used a butane torch).. Running out of ideas. anyone had succes cutting these off... Is there a mobile sevice that specialise in this stuff?

Thoughts ideas.. ?

No not realy defelecting the heat, was just running the water on it peridoicaly to try and drop the tempertature on the shaft/

This is not the best idea, rapid heat/cold changes will weaken parts. Not a problem with the crank gear but not really a good thing on your crankshaft. your better off heating it, then letting it cool on its own without any help from water etc

have u tried hitting it back toward the engine just to crack it first ? this is what i did. then lubed with inox and pryed forward against the oil pump with a flat head screw driver one either side. also with a flat head and hammer try rotational wise to help crack it more. once u get it far enough forward u can use the puller. u just need a big jolt to crack it then youre laughin.

I mange to remove it finally, I drilled just above the keyway than used my ozito ripp off dremel to cut a thin cut just above the keyway, used a cold chisel to crack it a little and used my pulley and the 6mm tapped holes i made to slip it off. Wow this thing was epic rusted on glad its off now.

Now here a question is there something i can put on the shaft to prevent this happening again?

I mange to remove it finally, I drilled just above the keyway than used my ozito ripp off dremel to cut a thin cut just above the keyway, used a cold chisel to crack it a little and used my pulley and the 6mm tapped holes i made to slip it off. Wow this thing was epic rusted on glad its off now.

Now here a question is there something i can put on the shaft to prevent this happening again?

Sounds familliar, mine was nicely rusted on too.

You can get anti-seize to put on it, i think you can get little tubes and you should be able to find it at a fastener or engineering supplies shop.

Edited by Dobz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...