Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks, just a couple of questions, I'm looking to do a complete oil change and filter change on my 1998 R34 GTT, I just wanted to find out how many litres of oil I'll need to refill and maybe a few recommendations on which oil to use? I have a budget of about $100 all up for oil and filter so I guess the best products you guys could recommend within that budget.

I was also told that you could buy an engine degreaser type liquid that I could mix in with the old oil and run the car for ten mins or so then dump it all out which would clean out the insides a bit. Does this stuff exist? Would you guys recommend doing that? And what's it called?

Finally I would like to do a transmission oil change as well, could someone explain what's involved there?

Sorry for all the questions but I am a newby so I figure it's better to ask first than screw something up!

Any info would be greatly appreciated

Cheers. Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400475-r34-gtt-maintenance-help/
Share on other sites

The product you are looking for is engine oil flush , there are a few different brands you could try, as for your AT, your local repco (or other) can help there, you have had to ask some very basic questions and its easy to screw up what you want to do .. . a service by a qualified mechanic MAY be your best option

changing the auto trans fluid is much harder than doing the engine oil and is best left to the professionals if you don't know what you are doing. it is also something that doesn't really need doing. just check the dipstick. if the oil is black then take it to an auto transmission specialist. if it is red then don't bother. there are plenty of auto cars out there with over 200,000kms on the clock and still running the original trans fluid. i think the service intervals on most modern auto transmissions are something like 100,000 to 150,000kms

changing the auto trans fluid is much harder than doing the engine oil and is best left to the professionals if you don't know what you are doing. it is also something that doesn't really need doing. just check the dipstick. if the oil is black then take it to an auto transmission specialist. if it is red then don't bother. there are plenty of auto cars out there with over 200,000kms on the clock and still running the original trans fluid. i think the service intervals on most modern auto transmissions are something like 100,000 to 150,000kms

^^only if you want a dead auto transmission! the fluid (at least in skylines) needs changing more frequently than every 200,000ks

Auto trans fluid can be red yet still need dumping especially if the fluid smells burnt. factory fluids are semi-synths so 200,000km would really be at the end of their service life (redline claim 400,000km on their synthetic gear/trans fluids)

^^only if you want a dead auto transmission! the fluid (at least in skylines) needs changing more frequently than every 200,000ks

Auto trans fluid can be red yet still need dumping especially if the fluid smells burnt. factory fluids are semi-synths so 200,000km would really be at the end of their service life (redline claim 400,000km on their synthetic gear/trans fluids)

if you both reread my post, i said that there are plenty of cars with over 200,000kms on the original trans fluid, but then i go on to say that most service intervals are half that.the service manual for my VT says every 110,000kms.

someone may also be able to confirm this, but i have a feeling that all oils and fluids have to be changed when the car is complied, so depending on how long the car has been in the country it may well be relatively fresh fluid in there.

if you both reread my post, i said that there are plenty of cars with over 200,000kms on the original trans fluid, but then i go on to say that most service intervals are half that.the service manual for my VT says every 110,000kms.

someone may also be able to confirm this, but i have a feeling that all oils and fluids have to be changed when the car is complied, so depending on how long the car has been in the country it may well be relatively fresh fluid in there.

i sit corrected :closedeyes:

the brake fluid was the only fluid changed in my 34 (for compliance)when it was imported into Aus, the trans fluid hadnt been touched but smelt ok and is a cherry red colour, the engine oil was black so i flushed/changed that , the car came with a factory service manual but i cant read japanese!. . . also higher mileage cars MAY need the power steering fluid flushed/changed

i use motul turbolight cant remember the cost but its about $50 or $60, also a ryco z145a filter. depending how much you drained out throw a little bit over 4 litres back in, start it up for a minute to let the new oil settle and read the dipstick. if its a little low then add some more, i generally end up putting about 4.5L in each change i do. hope this helps

im not sure if those engine flushes are a good idea, what if you have some carbon on the rings and you end up cleaning it off?

you might end up with lower compression and even smoke.. unlikely but i wouldnt risk it. Regular changes would be good enough to clean the motor, afterall theres alot of detergents in the oil itself.

nothing wrong with dropping the auto fluid, take the pan off and buy a filter and new oil and put it in,

I think changing the transmission oil every 80K would be a good thing, make sure you get the right fluid and capacity

id avoid mechanics working on your car if you can too, what will most likely happen is that some young punk apprentice will get given the keys and he feel the need to give it lots of revs, do the job quick , then out the door for a full boost cold thrashing round the block, haha, then give you a nice bill and oh your keys!!

Edited by SliverS2

im not sure if those engine flushes are a good idea, what if you have some carbon on the rings and you end up cleaning it off?

you might end up with lower compression and even smoke.. unlikely but i wouldnt risk it. Regular changes would be good enough to clean the motor, afterall theres alot of detergents in the oil itself.

nothing wrong with dropping the auto fluid, take the pan off and buy a filter and new oil and put it in,

I think changing the transmission oil every 80K would be a good thing, make sure you get the right fluid and capacity

id avoid mechanics working on your car if you can too, what will most likely happen is that some young punk apprentice will get given the keys and he feel the need to give it lots of revs, do the job quick , then out the door for a full boost cold thrashing round the block, haha, then give you a nice bill and oh your keys!!

Have used engine flush on many engines with NO problems with smoking or other issues to date

Dont be scared of doing your own maintenance mate. I'm a qualified truck mechanic and have worked in a few import workshops. Take your time, be confident but use common sense and double check and check again. And track down a workshop manual, these will take you through most things step by step and have everything you will need to know.

Let me know if you find a good one cause all I have found so far is this http://www.scribd.com/doc/30138244/R34-All-Workshop-Manual-Search-Able and it's pretty useless for what we really need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...