Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I just wanted to pick everyone's brains about a few things, basicly what im planing to do is buy a second hand motor and spend the time im on my p's doing the motor up, internals, turbo etc, so I was wondering what's the best motor to go with to get nice but safe power figures out of, also i was wondering if the motor will fit in any skyline or are they specific to that year range?

Another thing is what is a good gearbox to suit the motor?

Looking foward to hearing your advice and feedback :)

cheers.

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400550-best-choice-of-motor/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Buy a R31 and do your "enthusiast apprenticeship" on it.

They are cheap, fun and it won't matter if you break something, not as much as an import anyway. Nothing worse than dropping $10 000+ on your first car and being too scared to mod anything, or modding things and making beginner mistakes costing you $$$$.

You gotta go with a 3.0 bottom end.

F^^%$#@! torque monster.

I picked one up from a VL for $380 at the wreckers

If you''re after more than 300 rwkw, go forged internals.

The 3.0 is quite serious, so think medium sized turbo as a minumum. 3076R or bigger

Go large AR exhaust housing if you go 3076.

I have RB25 head and kept VCT with Tomei Poncams.

540 bhp , soon to go water meth or NOS for 600.

Peak torque at 4500 rpm and peak power at 6000 rpm

For a street car, everyones reaction is FMD ( f**k Me Dead!)

I already own a different car that i will have for on my p's and onwards, this is just a case of having some space down the shed, being interested in cars and wanting to have a project car to slowly build, its not a case of spending $10000+ on first car and im on here doing abit of research to avoid the beginner mistakes.

All im wondering what's a nice motor, gearbox combo to drop into a skyline later down the track?

You simply don't need to.

280rwkw is plenty for most people on the street with occasional weekend and is within the limits of a stock motor and then other things like cooling system, brakes and servicing.

You said yourself - you don't want to spend $10,000 - so unless you do want to spend 10k, then go with what is tried and proven time over to be cost effective & reliable.

There is no way on earth you will build a motor for 10k, well not properly anyways. Agree with nismoid on this one, simple bolt ons to get abit of power out of it and with the left over get yourself a set of coil overs and take it from there.

Going from P plates to 280rwkw in its own should be more than enough to satisfy you anyways

Edited by nomnomv8

WIN. Whats a 26 got over the neo to justify the substantial extra cost?

The fact that he can run a very reliable and safe 330rwkw+ all day every day with nothing but injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, computer and a set of turbos or a single on it where as the Neo would be a ticking time bomb at those power levels on an unopened motor..

Edited by nomnomv8
WIN. Whats a 26 got over the neo to justify the substantial extra cost?

VCT, oh wait no it doesnt, all its got is 100cc.

Me, for a RWD Skyline I would be building up a RB25 NEO head on a RB30, would end up cheaper than a 26 build but more torque at a lower RPM, and you dont need to rev it hard to make power, just change gear and your in the fat spot in the torque curve. You cannot beat cubic inches.

But as stated before, what car will it be going in( THIS IS A BIG FACTOR)as this is a nissan based site, Skyline RWD oR 4WD/S15/Datsun 120Y/300zx (engine out) legal/engineered, trackdays/superspints/drags do you want to run in a specific class, is getting 300klm a tank a issue, and as for getting some driving skills do some driver training, you can still go out on a low boost setting till you get use to the power.

Remember you may need different mounts/gearbox/brakes/diff/fuel system ect ect ect

I say make up a real time budget first and a time line for the build, THEN, triple the budget and timeline and you should get close to the final tally.

Me, I would like to build a 62 EK Holden with my current 25/30 motor, BUT, to do this I have estimated a total build cost of $60,000 which would no doubtably blow out to at least $100,000 or more.

Or just buy something you like already built and save thousands.

FWIW, Ive spent around $50,000 on a car that in the current market would sell for $12,000, dont get me wrong, the car is a animal and the most fun you can have with your pants on, but when I started the build I just wanted something for street use with the occassional track day, LOL....

Have fun deciding

MOOOORRREEEEEEEEEEEE POWWWAAAAARRRRRSSSSSSSSSSS.

Edited by mlr

The fact that he can run a very reliable and safe 330rwkw+ all day every day with nothing but injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, computer and a set of turbos or a single on it where as the Neo would be a ticking time bomb at those power levels on an unopened motor..

Are you retarded?

I think even a good 200kw or 250kw on a stock is more than enough for a p plater to get there kicks, you could kill yourself on the streets with that....

Why would you build a motor?? Have some fun with bolt ons and learn what it can do, a highflow turbo bolted on is enough to lose it sideways with stock setup..

stick the money in the bank as you go instead and let it earn interest. IF you still want to do up a turbo car after you get off your P's then you have the money there to do it or you can put that money to use some other way if your mind has changed.

someone once gave me some good advice, buy the cheapest car your ego will let you. the more expensive it is the worse it is if you wreck it or parts break.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...