Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there people, im hoping someone can help me here. I have recently purchased (been ripped ?) an R32 skyline 4 door. The car is a 1998 (yes thats what the nissan motor company plate has as the build date) R32 Impul-R skyline. Now i know the vehicle is an Impul special model, this included a whole bunch of "Factory" upgrades and such. My problem is that some stupid dick before me changed the original 4 spot front calipers to single spot sliders that i didnt know came out on any particular r32 skyline. The rear are still the factory sumitomo (i think) 2 spot calipers with 280mm (i measured) vented discs. I have a set of sumitomo 4 spot calipers to go on front but cant work out what size disc i need. Ive been told i need 32mm thick disc and one on front is 22mm and i think 275mm diametre (i did say it was some dick that changed them). Going by the dust? shield dia. it seems i could go a bit bigger. The mounting holes on both calipers are same width apart but it appears the 4 spot would sit further out due to mounting arms. Any help any one could give that might lead me in the right direction would be of the most help as ive been researching and sending emails to nissan and imul and have had no help. cheers.

If You are looking at the blue plate in the engine bay that says 1998 that is how big your engine is, ie 1998cc or 2l ie RB20. I don't think there is any date on the car. well there isn't on mine.. just grab some callipers and rotors from a 33

R32 GTS-t front rotor is 280mm x 30 (28 min).

R32 GT-R is 296mm x 32

Mount the caliper with a pad installed, and measure the distance centre of hub to top edge of pad. Double to get diameter. Should give you an idea of the required rotor diameter.

OK! OK! Im the Dick ! Lol. Yes i read the plate wrong and it does say 1998 for the engine capacity. People make mistakes and i guess i can sometimes be classed as people! :)

R32 GTS-t front rotor is 280mm x 30 (28 min).

R32 GT-R is 296mm x 32

Mount the caliper with a pad installed, and measure the distance centre of hub to top edge of pad. Double to get diameter. Should give you an idea of the required rotor diameter.

Cheers man, ill give it a try and post results.

Also, if anyone knows if there is a physical difference between the 2 door blinker/ corner lights and the 4 door ones ? are the mounting holes the same ? and pins on plug the same configuration ?

Another question, The factory plate has E-HCR32, i have seen many a mention of hcr32 but not e-hcr32. Any ideas ? or is this what all plates say on imports ?

If i am asking questions in wrong section than please let me know. I have owned turbos before this one, but i am a newbie to this forum so still learning protocol and such.

Cheers to all for thier advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...