Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I removed the roof rails off my 260RS today, looks heaps better.

tools needed are:

  • Small flat head screw driver
  • phillips screw driver
  • 12mm long socket (preferrably 1/4 inch drive)
  • 14mm spanner
  • 1/4 inch drive rachet & extensions
  • Gentle hands

remove the rear section of the hood lining then just let the front section drop down. u only need enough room to squeeze ur 12mm socket & extensions up to undo the nuts that hold the rails on. there are 10 all up. u'll need the long socket for the 4 at the rear.

post-86035-0-29104900-1339398621_thumb.jpg

once all the nuts are undone, pull the rails off, they may need a little assistance as the have been on there a long time.

now that the rails are off u'll be left with 6 rectangular holes in the panels which will need to be filled ( will update this when i have done it.)

post-86035-0-35827200-1339399102_thumb.jpg

post-86035-0-07038500-1339399169_thumb.jpg

post-86035-0-18484800-1339399255_thumb.jpg

post-86035-0-66054100-1339399335_thumb.jpg

u also have 10 holes in the roof which will need blocking off so ur roof don't leak! I'm planning on using some stainless cap head bolts and washers and some rubber washers as well as a bit of sikaflex just to make shure.

will post more pics and update topic when i have finished it, public holiday so bolt shop is closed today.

post-86035-0-13463300-1339399645_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402285-removed-c34-roof-rails/
Share on other sites

You have the easy bit done.

Are you going to remove the factory strips to modify them or do it on the car?

Just a heads up, the factory strips are double sided taped the entire length along the outside of the car

The inside entire length clips into a nylon strip that is double sided taped onto the roof

It is very hard to remove the factory strip without bending them. So take your time

How do you plan to modify them?

They are stainless steel coated in rubber/plastic.

Darren! Was planning on leaving the factory ones on the car, tac in some stainless fillers then use body filler, give them a rub back prime & paint on the car! Don't know if it will work but only one way to find out

  • 2 weeks later...

I done this to my Stagea today. I had to take out the whole hood lining out as mine got the the sun roofs, had to take off a bracket to get to the nuts.

This is how mine looks.... It does look hell alot better.

181873_10151872870100054_562082104_n.jpg

547166_10151872870245054_71775175_n.jpg

319698_10151872868660054_621212237_n.jpg

i wouldnt recommend modifying the stock ones on the car. as Darrin said they are rubber coated and held in with double sided tape. which means when u try and weld them the rubber and tape will melt. which will mean u'll have to take all the rubber off to get an even finish. this may also cause the roof to leak as there will be 10 holes into the cabin under the strips. as for stagea_dayz's suggestion of bogging it up, you will need atleast 3 whole containers of bog to do it! because once you take off the stainless steel strips theres a HUGE gap to be filled. i'd suggest to completely remove the stock ones BEFORE you modify them or do as i did and throw them away and sheet metal over the gap then fill and paint. but the latter will require the roof to be painted.

Edited by Raysboostin

Just a thought I had when I saw this.

How about hacking the bottom visible 3mm off of the rails (off the car), using that as a base to smooth something over.

I imagine it wont be flush and will probably look like 6 cover plates bolted in but using Nissan seals to fill a Nissan hole should stop leakage issue.

Should even be able leave the strips in place.

Be a quick solution whilst working on a bigger, better all encompassing one.

I dont want to be the first to cut my rails up though..... :)

I done this to my Stagea today. I had to take out the whole hood lining out as mine got the the sun roofs, had to take off a bracket to get to the nuts.

This is how mine looks.... It does look hell alot better.

181873_10151872870100054_562082104_n.jpg

547166_10151872870245054_71775175_n.jpg

319698_10151872868660054_621212237_n.jpg

can you post a close up shot of the rectangular holes??? Not too close but from like 1m away. im thinking of giving this a go. :-D
  • 2 weeks later...

Browsing the net today and found these

http://usa.auto-styl..._word&limit_car[]=2411&limit_genre[]=18K&set=0&page=1&max=10&car_url=c34stagia

Link didn't work but I geuss you mean this - =2411&limit_genre[]=18K&set=0&page=1&max=10&car_url=c34stagia"]roof bar cover

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...