Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Appologies if this is in the wrong section. My brother in law bought this car

http://www.skylinesa...-skyline-gts-t/

and has now got a wierd problem with it. Basically the car won't rev over 2200rpm(ish) under load and 3500rpm(ish) when sitting still with clutch in. There is also a random hesitation that kicks in at all rpms when it likes.He has basically given up on it and asked me to take a look.

So far I've fixed a loose AFM plug and cleaned it, swapped ignitors, cleaned just about every connector in the engine bay, moved the JECS injector resitor pack away from the turbo manifold (as it was getting bloody hot), re-earthed most of the engine bay. Earthed his bosch fuel pump to the chasis, checked the ECU in diag mode got the "55 all fine", checked for boost leaks (found two hose clamps loose) and scraped most of the skin off my hands with no improvement :(

I've spent hours googling the crap out of this and am coming up blank. help is appreciated guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403223-rb20det-power-loss/
Share on other sites

Check timing with a timing light.

The link mentions a 2nd hand CAS, maybe that CAS was borked too.

Does the engine run fine cold, then get issues once warm/hot?

Compression results?

Is the ECU firmly plugged in?

What does the TPS read at idle, and WOT?

Spent a fair bit of time with this car on the weekend. I disconnected the AFM, TPS, temp sensors and a few others individually to see what differences it would make, the only one that put out an error code on the ECU was the AFM when it was disconnected.

Can seems to get worse once it is warmed up, wondering if the the ecu when changing from the cold start to the running map is picking up something and going into limp home mode.

Anyone live in the blacktown area want to lend me an AFM/ecu to test with for about 30min for a case of beer or bottle of jack?

Limp can also be the tps as I found out. Can you measure the voltage output or get a reader onto it?

Did you cut open the AFM and solder the pins inside?

I'm always willing to help for Jack, shame you are so far away. :(

If it were my car, id be very concerned with the following:

JUST RECENTLY INSTALLED JJR PERFORMANCE COIL PACKS

SECOND HAND CAM ANGLE SENSOR , AIR FLOW METER AND IGNITOR FROM SUMO JAP SPARES

all of the above sounds dodgy to me, everything is either shitty or second hand, so even if it did run well , how long would it stay that way?

JJR coilpacks sound cheap and nasty..

Jjr coilpacks are the justjap ones. For the S2 they are prone to failure and Justjap happilyrefunded me for mine having the receipt and me bring the buyer. The car still revved up just on 5 cylinders. Try a different ecu if you have already tried a new.afm and coilpacks.

Got a multimeter onto the TPS, one of the plugs gives a value from 0.1-1.0 volts depending on throttle position, other plug goes from 0.1-0.3 then to infinite value, does anyone know if this is normal, could it be WOT value?

  • 4 weeks later...

I had this exact problem. I had a contaminant in the fuel which made my Bosch itank pump slowly die.

Check the fuel rail pressure

CHeck the pumps mesh filter for anything. Does te pump sound noisier than normal? Is than basically silent?

  • 8 years later...

Hey man, I'm having basically the same exact problem and given this was back in 2012 lol idk if you would so happen to rememeber what the problem(s) were and how you fixed them ? I've reached a dead end and basically checked and done everything that I can think of and then some, along with trying things from reading on here

I hope you can help !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...