Jump to content
SAU Community

Rear End Of Car Is Bouncy?

hop1308
 Share

Recommended Posts

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
Posted

hey guys, I have a R34 GTT and the rear end of it is really bouncy and i did the bounce test on the back and it does keep bouncing. so my questions are

- is it definatly the shocks that are gone?

- how much is the cheapest i could replace the shocks or solve this problem for, like whats the average price on new or used shocks

and is it the struts or the shocks that are gone? its just the back end that bounces

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403761-rear-end-of-car-is-bouncy/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Sounds like shocks to me. The springs are causing the bounce but the shocks aren't absorbing and eliminating the bounce.

Cheapest option is to either get new struts only or see if you can get a good set of second hand struts

Unless you want to go coilovers then you can get some bc's brand new for about $1100 and replace all 4

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that, what do you reckon the price is if i wanted to do this as cheaply as possible?

and what sort of problems will i get if i continue to drive the car for a long time with the shocks as they are?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

thanks for that, what do you reckon the price is if i wanted to do this as cheaply as possible?

and what sort of problems will i get if i continue to drive the car for a long time with the shocks as they are?

Just ring a few suspension suppliers and get some quotes on budget oriented shocks. You could probably get a pair of cheapies for less than $300. Even a set of Monroes would be better than stuffed originals. Will you be changing them yourself?

Are you hoping they'll somehow get better if you ignore the fact that they're stuffed?

The problems that occur with worn out shocks are; shit handling, poor grip, and extreme danger to other people when you plow into them in your out of control car.

So yeah; nothing too serious. :rolleyes: Sort it out, or don't drive a car.

Also; maybe an idea of where you live, might be able to suggest some places to go.

Edited by Daleo
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Just ring a few suspension suppliers and get some quotes on budget oriented shocks. You could probably get a pair of cheapies for less than $300. Even a set of Monroes would be better than stuffed originals. Will you be changing them yourself?

Are you hoping they'll somehow get better if you ignore the fact that they're stuffed?

The problems that occur with worn out shocks are; shit handling, poor grip, and extreme danger to other people when you plow into them in your out of control car.

So yeah; nothing too serious. :rolleyes: Sort it out, or don't drive a car.

Also; maybe an idea of where you live, might be able to suggest some places to go.

This guy. He Know. :yes:

To put it in perspective / share an experience.

I have a 70kw Mazda 323. The shocks were completely gone. The drive was so bad that along a uneven 80km/h road in the wet the front tyres (which were of good quality) would spin up under power. Thats with all of 70kw.

Now imagine you with your 206+kw trying to put that through rooted shocks to the road. Shocks play a big part in how much traction your tyres have - in simple terms, if the tyre isn't in contact with the road you have no grip.

get it sorted, and the car will be nicer, and safer to drive. ;)

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

This guy. He Know. :yes:

To put it in perspective / share an experience.

I have a 70kw Mazda 323. The shocks were completely gone. The drive was so bad that along a uneven 80km/h road in the wet the front tyres (which were of good quality) would spin up under power. Thats with all of 70kw.

Now imagine you with your 206+kw trying to put that through rooted shocks to the road. Shocks play a big part in how much traction your tyres have - in simple terms, if the tyre isn't in contact with the road you have no grip.

get it sorted, and the car will be nicer, and safer to drive. ;)

Bang on Alex.

It blows out your stopping distances by heaps too, and that hurts you when you can least afford.

A mid corner bump on a wet road could unload the rear suspension and have you firing backwards across a lane of traffic with absolutely no warning; not worth it.

  • 2 weeks later...
hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sorry for the late reply, but wow i get how serious it is now.

im in sydney around the blacktown area, does anyone know of the completly cheapest method to have them replaced, and i probably wont be doing them myself either.

like any really cheap spare parts shop? or what do i ask for if i call the shop, its like when i bounce on the back of the car it keeps bouncing.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

sorry for the late reply, but wow i get how serious it is now.

im in sydney around the blacktown area, does anyone know of the completly cheapest method to have them replaced, and i probably wont be doing them myself either.

like any really cheap spare parts shop? or what do i ask for if i call the shop, its like when i bounce on the back of the car it keeps bouncing.

PM sent.

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the offer john and the inbox daleo. I might just install them myself, just so i dont get ripped off for buying shocks can someone tell me the average price of cheap shocks, maybe even second hand shocks? for the R34 GTT

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Pick a number. Nasty cheap crap like anything Australian made (Monroe) will be <$200/pr. Decent dampers are >$300ea.

Have you ever taken a damper/spring unit apart before? Do you know what a spring compressor is and how to use it? You might want to take Johnny up on his offer if you can't answer those questions in the affirmative.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

thanks for the offer john and the inbox daleo. I might just install them myself, just so i dont get ripped off for buying shocks can someone tell me the average price of cheap shocks, maybe even second hand shocks? for the R34 GTT

Call the place I told you about, they're not in the business of "ripping people off"; is he supposed to fit your shocks for nothing?

Do you seriously have to be spoon fed every step of the way?

It's only help, if you act on the information YOU ask for.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

i called them, 240ea shock and 100 instalation. I've gotten quotes for 180ea so far thanks for heading me off in the right direction though.

Good work, happy to help out.

Cheers, Dale.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...