Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Loss Of Boost When On A Long Drive

Booki

By Booki,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I had to go on a bit of a long drive today and when driving for a bit over an hour, my GTR started to loose boost.

I only have the stock gauge (restrictor out) and it normally goes above the 7 on WOT (wide open throttle).

After driving for a bit over an hour and while accelerating i felt it just die down, and now the gauge would not go above the upper middle marker (the bit between 0 and 7).

Sounds like a very similar/same problem to this bloke here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/102476-r32-gtr-loss-of-boost/

But alas, no resolution on that thread.

Anybody know whats going on?

I am leaning towards the stock rubber piping gets hot and starts to restrict airflow to the motor, the ecu goes wtf is going on and puts me in "safe/retard" mode, preventing me from boosting 100%. Least thats one of my theories...

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
Posted

Hey there,

It won't be any of the piping you have there - I have the same piping and have never had issues with it. Besides, something like that would be a major fault and would have seen recalls :D

However, here are some things it could be:

- If you're running pod filters without a partition you could be sucking in too much hot air (I have those issues in summer with a bit of power loss)

- Your AFMs may be giving up slowly and could become very noticeable when they get hot as with a lot of electronic gear, so you could test these.

- You may have a sloppy or broken actuator on one of your turbos. If it the actuator goes or gets too soft then it's an INSTANT power loss and you will know about it. You can easily test these by reaching down there and pulling on the rod...or test with a pump/gauge etc

- You could also be having fueling issues...ie dying pump, old fuel filter or dirty injectors. Do you have a service history to share?

- You may also want to check ALL your vacuum lines for leaks....and while you're at it, all your pipework hoseclamps.

When did all this start to happen? Has it always been like this or did it happen for the first time the other day?

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm, good point about the piping tom!

I am running pods, HKS ones to be precise.

I only noticed this today on my long drive, Drove for about an hour a half happened pretty early on , maybe about 30-40 minutes into the drive. (Nice open long straight country roads). Never has happened prior, then again never really had a nice long open country road to drive on before.

On the way back it was fine, till the last 15-20 minutes of the drive. So it was ok for an hour. During that time it happened while i was in 5th on boost, then i just saw the gauge drop and felt the loss of power.

On the note of black smoke - Yes, it normally blows a bit of strange looking smoke (kinda blackish) if i have been babying it then decide to go WOT. I figured this was normal though. The idle doesn't seem rough, cold or hot. Idles at 1,000rpm when warm, I also check my oil often and it hasn't used a drop. Also on stock ECU, hasn't been tuned.

Has HKS Pods, Ganador exhaust, hiflow car. Stock everything else.

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

Does it make whistling sound while doing it? If so, read below.

Check all the intercooler hose clamps, it might not have good clamping force it used to be. Replace all the clamps while you're at it for good measure.

And look for 'cooler piping behind the front bumper (especially LHS) cos they pop out often.

Hybrid1310 Contributor

Hybrid1310

Posted
Posted

If a popt intercooler piping you should feel it rough idle i have had the same issue on a few cars but it would be quiet noticeable

I would check the turbo for play and as stated above make sure all the i/c piping is on secure

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the tips fellas,

But if a turbo had shit itself, or a pipe had fallen off.

Wouldn't it be loss of boost all the time?

As it drives fine just after X amount of time driving it will stop going full boost.

vorse Grand Master

vorse

Posted
Posted (edited)

Something is getting hot is my guess. Something electronic.

this is my vote as well

did it come good after being parked ?

loose conection maybe ??

i know i had issue with AFM plugs

is you blow off valve plumb back ??

air lock in intercooler /pipeing maybe??

Edited by vorse
Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After getting to my destination and leaving it parked for a few hours, It was fine, but then happened again on the way home.

Drove it today on my daily commute and it was fine, (to be fair my daily commute is short as hell) so i got no idea now. I am leaning more towards something failing when it gets heated, due to the fact if it was a pipe that was constantly loose, It should be consistent loss of boost.

Do GTR's have a "safe" tune the stock ecu map's too during certain situations? Such as if the rubber pipes were causing a kink, ecu thought wtf too rich and just invoked a safe tune?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ yep.

Either that or a VAC line or similar is getting a bit hot and loose.

It won't be factory piping - I drove to Sydney with my GTR, twice. It was fine with 360rwkw, i can assure you of that ;)

You'd notice the car playing up if air was escaping due to AFM reading the air and the motor then not seeing it

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

But if a turbo had shit itself, or a pipe had fallen off. Wouldn't it be loss of boost all the time?

Correct. It wont be a pipe off or broken turbo. If that happens you have vacuum as normal, but never makes any boost.

Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Do GTR's have a "safe" tune the stock ecu map's too during certain situations? Such as if the rubber pipes were causing a kink, ecu thought wtf too rich and just invoked a safe tune?

Ive seen a 33gtr go into limp mode already due to high temps and running on 95, and all the ecu did was pull about 8* timing.....no change in boost or anything, but you could definitely feel the loss in power. This car didnt have the stock solenoid tho ...

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted (edited)

Interested to see where this goes.. I had the same problem in my old gtr when driving from Brisbane to

Sydney.. Was about 100km out from Sydney and the car lost power and wouldn't boost properly. After a stop at the servo for 30min the problem went away never to happen again

Edited by GTR_JOEY
Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted

Similar thing happened to my wifes WRX all of a sudden was only running actuator pressure a week later back to the normal 12psi. Suspect the stock solinoid had a fault give yours a good clean out and then send 12v through it an make sure its working

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...