Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Skyline Start Up Problems In The Morning

Deza3000
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MatthewT85
MatthewT85

i dont know if this will help. but i had the cold start issues way back when this was started, on stock ecu, i never found a fix for it. i changed to a Power FC and tuned and then had a diff prob,

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

If you have a consult cable, or feel like buying one of ebay, you would be able to create a log of all available sensors while you start the car and let it run (or die out).

That should give some useful info as to what is going on.

tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
Posted

If you have a consult cable, or feel like buying one of ebay, you would be able to create a log of all available sensors while you start the car and let it run (or die out).

That should give some useful info as to what is going on.

how much is it?

how do you use it?

do you need anything else beside laptop and cable?

what software is used?

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

I use an ECUtalk consult which is about $100 on ebay. There are cheaper ones though I can't comment on their quality.

You plug the consult connector in the consult port near the fuses on the drivers side, you plug the USB into a windows laptop.

Theres a few freeware programs which can then read the consult port as a COM port. Apart from reading codes and realtime sensor info, you can create a log which writes all the selected sensors into a table format about 30 times per second.

More info here: http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx

  • 1 month later...
tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
Posted

Ok, so some new info

I didn't start the car for 4 complete days....assuming that of course it would be extremely cold and obviously have the cold start issue. I took my camera out to record for my mechanic so was looking forward to it having the cold start problem...for once lol

This is the weird part...after sitting for 4 days....it started absolutely perfectly. No hesitation , nothing. This has happened before when I hadn't started the car for 3 days....

Don't know if this will help anyone but it seems if I don't start the car for between 24-48 hours it has this issue , but less then 24 hours or over 48 hours of not starting , it starts perfectly.

Weird...im stumped....maybe more knowledgeable folk can chip in.

  • 2 weeks later...
tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
Posted

Ok, so some new info

I didn't start the car for 4 complete days....assuming that of course it would be extremely cold and obviously have the cold start issue. I took my camera out to record for my mechanic so was looking forward to it having the cold start problem...for once lol

This is the weird part...after sitting for 4 days....it started absolutely perfectly. No hesitation , nothing. This has happened before when I hadn't started the car for 3 days....

Don't know if this will help anyone but it seems if I don't start the car for between 24-48 hours it has this issue , but less then 24 hours or over 48 hours of not starting , it starts perfectly.

Weird...im stumped....maybe more knowledgeable folk can chip in.

FYI I have confirmed this. If I start the car after it sits for between 18 hours and 30 hours it has issues starting. Before or after this amount of time has passed it fires up perfectly. Tried a few times and same result every time. This could narrow our search greatly.

  • 2 months later...
MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted

i dont know if this will help.

but i had the cold start issues way back when this was started, on stock ecu, i never found a fix for it.

i changed to a Power FC and tuned

and then had a diff prob, whether its from the same issue or not i dont know.

but what would happen is it wouldnt start first go would splutter and die, then be fine next start This is cold start btw.

then when i would be lazy and put the clutch in but not down change it would rev hunt but not stall.

also hot starting would give the same rev bounce.

i had looked around trying to find others having the issue and noticed there is a sensor check on the Power FC looked at it and noticed my TPS was at 0.35v

which is low anywhere from 0.45-0.5v is what you should be aiming for.

so today i adjusted it and it has been near perfect!!! fingers crossed

so maybe you guys might want to check it out.

Like i said it may have no relevence to these issues, ive forgotten the specifics of everyone posting, just my own.

If you guys are running stock ecus you can still check the voltage just need a multimeter, there are a few threads around, you may just need to find the correct wire....

hope it helps

  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No, AAC and IACV are two different things, unless you have a Neo, in which case they are two different things inside the one unit.

IACV is the Idle Air Control Valve. It is the motorised valve controlled by the ECU to control the idle speed to a set point.

AAC is the Auxiliary Air Control. It is a thermostatic valve that is open when cold. In earlier cars it is electrically heated so it starts open to provide lots of air for a fast idle when cold, and then closes and the idle speed control then falls back on the ECU & IACV. On the Neo, the AAC is heated by coolant.

Both can be dirty and stuck open/closed/anywhere.

The IACV is far more likely to be dirty and stuck than the AAC.

You would need to look for some pictures of both (use a manual, not Google image search, because most such photos of such valves are mislabelled and you could continue your wrongness, or convert your rightness to wrongness just as easily as it actually helping. FWIW, the AAC is a quite big thing with a hose in and a hose out. The IACV is bolted directly onto the plenum and has what looks like a motor on it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, dyl33 said:

There's a cold start valve under intake manifold?

Actually, I done f**ked up. It's the RB20 and the 26 that have the separate AAC under the manifold. The vanilla RB25 has the combined unit (but not the same combined unit as the Neo). The AAC is still electrically heated. The IACV is the stepper motor driven one. There's plenty of threads on these on here.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, dyl33 said:

So what could be wrong with it? Aac appears to operate normal cold or hot via ecutalk. Idles and drives perfectly 

Well did you do what was suggested as a cause back in the thread - check the TPS setting?

And of course my favourite try unplugging the ecu water temp sensor. If it starts better that way (and don't turn the engine off again but keep driving) then you need to replace that sensor (its the one with two wires - the single wire one goes to the gauge).

Other than that check that the fuel is priming properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...