Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Unfortunatley was out with a mate tonight and got defected at Penrith. Cops are everywhere out that way, and they have a full RTA inspection setup.

Now issue is that he read 104 DB and the legal limit is 90. What we need is an exhaust to borrow to pass. We're happy to pickup/drop off and also swing some cash your way. If not, anybody know how we can make it legal easily and cheaply?

Car has -5's and 2.8 stroker etc etc.

Also he got defected on height and he has stock shocks/springs. Is there any adjustment from stock?

Thanks,

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405138-exhaust-to-pass-emissions/
Share on other sites

If the car is too low with stock suspension, then it is either stuffed (sagged old springs) or someone has done something really dodgy. The other alternative is that the car is not actually too low, and the cop is a dickhead and has just written the defect up hoping that other things will turn up at inspection. The other alternative is that the car has a stupid body kit or low hanging exhaust. That would be deserving of the defect.

If you want a cheat for the exhaust, make a plat to go between flanges that has a number of 10mm holes drilled in it. The more holes, the more noise and the more gas will pass through. Too few holes will choke the motor so you can't drive it. You do the work/math to determine what you need to get it mobile and passable.

Just went through this 2 weeks ago.

Be aware that they will not only test your exhaust DB reading, but also pop the bonnet and sus out things like atmo bov, uncovered air filter(heat sheild is not legal), atmo catch can etc etc that they will fail you on.

They also put the car up on the hoist and go over the exhaust system to see if its been tampered with. Its all documented and pics are taken.

They will note that exhaust bolts and been recently un-done/done up from fresh marks, dirty hand prints showing its been 'tampered' with. The guy in Granville was pedantic with it all and reasonably cluey. You can't pay extra to 'just pass it', its not like the dodgy pinks and blues people get.

Rumor has it, the guy in campbelltown is more 'forgiving.' So will try him next time.

However, even that he knew it was tampered with, at the time he did the test, the exhaust was under the limit and nothing caught his eye that was illegal so he passed it, but again took pics of everything.

oh and the plate with holes in it, between a flange works a treat. Just be sure to make it looks as close as you can to a gasket.

Hey guys,

Unfortunatley was out with a mate tonight and got defected at Penrith. Cops are everywhere out that way, and they have a full RTA inspection setup.

Now issue is that he read 104 DB and the legal limit is 90. What we need is an exhaust to borrow to pass. We're happy to pickup/drop off and also swing some cash your way. If not, anybody know how we can make it legal easily and cheaply?

Car has -5's and 2.8 stroker etc etc.

Also he got defected on height and he has stock shocks/springs. Is there any adjustment from stock?

Thanks,

Aaron

Where in Penrith was this?

Edited by cherring

Lucky i didn't fit one then lol, I was thinking of mounting one between cat and rear muffler as they sound a bit hissy on the rear, I guess i thought maybe the cops wouldn't defect it if it wasn't noisy and then not have to go through all the hassle, but I figured they would be onto it in the end!

Just went through this 2 weeks ago.

Be aware that they will not only test your exhaust DB reading, but also pop the bonnet and sus out things like atmo bov, uncovered air filter(heat sheild is not legal), atmo catch can etc etc that they will fail you on.

They also put the car up on the hoist and go over the exhaust system to see if its been tampered with. Its all documented and pics are taken.

They will note that exhaust bolts and been recently un-done/done up from fresh marks, dirty hand prints showing its been 'tampered' with. The guy in Granville was pedantic with it all and reasonably cluey. You can't pay extra to 'just pass it', its not like the dodgy pinks and blues people get.

Rumor has it, the guy in campbelltown is more 'forgiving.' So will try him next time.

However, even that he knew it was tampered with, at the time he did the test, the exhaust was under the limit and nothing caught his eye that was illegal so he passed it, but again took pics of everything.

oh and the plate with holes in it, between a flange works a treat. Just be sure to make it looks as close as you can to a gasket.

That clown in Granville Failed my exhaust becasue the silencer was not welded in, Therefore not part of the exhaust and a hazard.

Had to pay for that, then come back again after a shitty weld job and back to get tested again,

He didnet check anything for tampering, I had the flanged closed ect ect

Far out Sydney has gotten bad. Can't even drive your car around down there anymore.

Gotta be stressing to drive anywhere near Sydney now. We don't have these issues on the coast..... Yet!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...