Jump to content
SAU Community

How Nosiy Is A Hks Super Dragger?

Torques

By Torques,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GotsWapan Community Regular

GotsWapan

Posted
Posted (edited)

My super drager was buggered in the cannon, all rusted and crumpled some how.. Causing a restriction enough to hold back a 12psi actuator to 8.5psi. Cut it open cleaned it out so its hollow but its very droney now lol :down:

Edited by GotsWapan
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

I've got a hks super drager on my 32 and it isn't loud at all. I may go down the path of removing the mid muffler to a resonator to get Abit more sound out of it.

Thought long and hard about doing this to mine as well.. but it is nice not being stung every time I get to take it for a drive.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

LOL

Not only chicks,

I like to hear my turbo and whether the engine is pinging.

Also it is nice to listen to the radio.

A noisy exhaust doesn't cut it .. nor does a dump-valve ;)

The chicks love the quiet exhausts. Then they think they can talk the whole time ur driving

Edited by Torques
  • 3 weeks later...
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to recap on the topic

I installed the exhaust and it is quite loud :(

There's a heavy low rpm drone which is more behind the car than in the car.

I got a lot of angry looks from people at bus-stations (if you know what I mean)

It's a bit much for city driving, and I will try to get the drone down with one of these mini silencers.

I suspect the exhaust is so noisy since I have no CAT installed ...

post-33912-0-57509100-1345481256_thumb.jpg

post-33912-0-54265100-1345481261_thumb.jpg

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Just to recap on the topic

I installed the exhaust and it is quite loud :(

There's a heavy low rpm drone which is more behind the car than in the car.

I got a lot of angry looks from people at bus-stations (if you know what I mean)

It's a bit much for city driving, and I will try to get the drone down with one of these mini silencers.

I suspect the exhaust is so noisy since I have no CAT installed ...

Its noisy cause there practically no muffler, a rear cannon like that will do nothing if its straight thru.. its not much different to having just a straight thru pipe on the end...

I used to have the exact same on the back, now i got a proper muffler and still make the power and it actually sounds alot nicer..

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Which muffler did you get?

Its noisy cause there practically no muffler, a rear cannon like that will do nothing if its straight thru.. its not much different to having just a straight thru pipe on the end...

I used to have the exact same on the back, now i got a proper muffler and still make the power and it actually sounds alot nicer..

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found this one ...

http://www.japspeed.co.uk/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-Silenced-Decat/p-0-275/

Maybe worth a try (I'd get it cheaper)

a cat and a middle resonator/small sized muffler will help out a lot.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

i cant say if that one will help much, i would guess it wouldnt cause it looks smallish...

I have a 3 1/2inch system with hotdog resonator and a 3inch X force muffler ( large oval) , the muffler is semi straight thru and forces the exhaust into it to muffle the noise , but obviously its flowing great cause it made well over 300kw..

I think you would be happy with a similar setup, it has a nice muffled , tough note thats quiet enough to hear your radio without dronning. can hear it in my thread on the dyno...

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks,

I removed the CAT 3 years ago, it's common practice here since (older) JDMs can get away with it.

(Removing that CAT actually made a big difference, so why is that stupid?)

Also my car was tested for emissions recently and it was all to plan, no complaints.

However I am considering getting a high cell count CAT.

I am certain that would also solve the noise issue ..

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

Edited by Torques
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger :), R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours.

when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on :D - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

must of had a silencer somwhere.. cannons will never be quiet.. not like that..

put a high cell cat and you'll take some edge of it, better off with a 100cell cat or no cat, and a good sized oval proper muffler, semi straight thru

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi,

What small box do you mean?

Do you have any pictures?

Suprised, seeing the pic.. as the one im about to put up for sale has a small box.....

And it wasnt to loud or drowny at all.

actually sounded good!!

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yep, I agree a 100%, cannons will always be on the louder side.

(especially when they are 3.5'' in diameter)

As for the CAT if I could find one with a 3'' flange that would be great.

The standard CAT is just 60mm (3''=76.2mm)

must of had a silencer somwhere.. cannons will never be quiet.. not like that..

put a high cell cat and you'll take some edge of it, better off with a 100cell cat or no cat, and a good sized oval proper muffler, semi straight thru

Edited by Torques

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...