Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently trying to figure out what would be best suited out of these two sizes but I don't really have my head around offsets too well.

I want the wheels to be a flush fit with the guards, not tucked in and not hanging out. Can anyone confirm if either of these sizes are correct?

18x10+20 or 18x9.5+22

If you have either of these sizes on your 32 I would be grateful if you could post close up pics of how they fit in the guards.

Edited by NISMATT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405555-correct-wheel-size-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

They sit fine now but I have a 5mm spacer as the fronts rubbed the inside tyre wall without it, they came with the car and I have no idea what their offset is unfortunately.

So if +12 is dead flush, is +20 sitting in or out the guards?

  • 2 weeks later...

I've got 18x10 +18 with my front and rear guards have been rolled and worked on. And it works perfect

Alright Deano any chance you could post some pics up for me so I know where they will be roughly?

Just super keen to know exactly how they will sit before I lay down nearly 4K.

Hi Matt, I run 18x9.5 +12 and they sit flush. (Tyres are 255/35/R18).

265's will scrub on the front but very minor on lock going slow.

I'll get some pics today

As per your first post

18x9.5 +22 will sit 10mm further in.

18x10 +20 will sit 2mm further in

Deano's 18x10 +18 will sit exactly the same as mine.

18x10 +20 will sit 2mm further in

Hope some of the snaps help your choice

Richard thanks for the thorough response that was just what I was looking for.

Your fitment is pretty much spot on what I'm after so 2mm further in the guards I'll be stoked with, I run 255's on 10 inch wheels now so that's what I'll be using on the new rims.

  • 3 months later...

I am running CE28's 18x9.5 +15 with 265's all round.

Heaps of room! I could drive a truck through that guard gap.

I think a +12 would be better or a 18x10.5

(Uneven ground)

Side.jpg

Fronts.jpg

Rear.jpg

Edited by DarrenJC
  • Like 1

Hi guys I'm new to this forum and new to Skyline ownership. I've recently brought a 32 gtr and am looking to put new wheels on it but have a couple of questions I hope someone on here can help me with:

1. Will 19 x 9.5 +30 fit under the guards and clear the struts, or will there need to be some modifications done?

2. Does any one know how much a standard rim weighs? ( no tyre )

Unfortunately the car is not at my house so I can't measure distances etc and like many haven't quite grasped the offset concept yet.

I assume because the standard (16x8 +30) are the same offset as the rims I'm looking at that, they will just be .75 inch closer to the strut and the guard?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...