Turbo Upgrade R34 Gt-T

[GT-T 1998]

hey guys

im doing a turbo upgrade that should give me about 300rwkws.

ill be getting

knn panel filter

3inch exhaust with a high flow cat and dump pipe

front mount intercooler

oil cooler

3076 garret turbo kit

nistune ecu

electronic hks boost controler

750cc injectors

and a larger fuel pump

the rest of the car is stock and i have 127,xxxkms on the clock

should i be worried of anything not beable to handle the power upgrade.

ie clutch, gearbox, engine

i havnt had a problem with the car at all and prevous owner hasnt either.

if theres anything that i should/ should not be doing please let me no.

thanks

[Hanaldo]

Simple search would have given you your answers.

What clutch have you got? If it's stock then yes, that will need to be upgraded.

[GT-T 1998]

yea i think got a stock clutch i havnt changed it not sure about any1 else tho

is it easy to find out other then pulling it apart and having a look

upgrade for a clutch would prob be around 1500 or so installed id imagen

[ahhbee]

you'll definantly need a h/d clutch which you should be able to tell just by pedal feel. i chose a NPC h/d organic that was $800 delivered,and good for 300rwkw i installed it myself but i believe your looking at $400 or so in labour

[Hanaldo]

yea i think got a stock clutch i havnt changed it not sure about any1 else tho

is it easy to find out other then pulling it apart and having a look

upgrade for a clutch would prob be around 1500 or so installed id imagen

Nup, gotta pull it off to find out. If you're not mechanically minded, it's a prick of a job to do on the 34 because they use a pull-type clutch.

Better to just assume your clutch is stock/worn and replace it. If it turns out to be an aftermarket clutch in somewhat decent condition then sell it off and recoup a bit of your money, but that's better than having it fail on the dyno which will cost you money and time anyway.

[R31Nismoid]

full service and all fluids changed at a minimum (gearbox, diff, P/S etc)

radiator

clutch

diff

tyres

brakes

suspension

no point having 300rwkw if you cant;

1. turn corners with that power

2. stop the car with that power

IMO you really are going about it the wrong way. Handling and learning how to drive comes first, then comes the power. Things like a decent diff and suspension setup make so much difference it's hard to gauge "just how much" because it's more than just a number on a piece of paper.

And all the stock shit is realistically rubbish stock... so add another 140rwkw or so, just asking for trouble.

[GT-T 1998]

Nup, gotta pull it off to find out. If you're not mechanically minded, it's a prick of a job to do on the 34 because they use a pull-type clutch.

Better to just assume your clutch is stock/worn and replace it. If it turns out to be an aftermarket clutch in somewhat decent condition then sell it off and recoup a bit of your money, but that's better than having it fail on the dyno which will cost you money and time anyway.

yeah sounds about right lol, i should probly tell my mechanic to add it to the list

thanks for your help mate

you'll definantly need a h/d clutch which you should be able to tell just by pedal feel. i chose a NPC h/d organic that was $800 delivered,and good for 300rwkw i installed it myself but i believe your looking at $400 or so in labour

ohk yeah not to bad of a price for that ill have to look into it

thanks mate

[GT-T 1998]

full service and all fluids changed at a minimum (gearbox, diff, P/S etc)

radiator

clutch

diff

tyres

brakes

suspension

no point having 300rwkw if you cant;

1. turn corners with that power

2. stop the car with that power

IMO you really are going about it the wrong way. Handling and learning how to drive comes first, then comes the power. Things like a decent diff and suspension setup make so much difference it's hard to gauge "just how much" because it's more than just a number on a piece of paper.

And all the stock shit is realistically rubbish stock... so add another 140rwkw or so, just asking for trouble.

stock diff

stock suspension

stock brakes n rotars

stock radiator

stock clutch

275/30/19s 245/30/19s back n front with ku31s new treads 2000kms

just had a service 1200kms ago

basicly what your are saying is dont go crazy with the power until i upgrade handling and braking other wise ill be off the road in someones house

[R31Nismoid]

Well potentially yes - not that you will, but lumping on 140rwkw+ extra power and big top end... It's quite a bit step in a well complemented setup, let alone one that around it is otherwise stock.

If you've not driven a 300rwkw well setup car before, I'd urge you to do so first. Unless you are interested in 1/4mile racing only, you really need to spend a bit of coin in the other areas as well - or at least plan to shortly there after.

Too many inexperienced people get into high powered cars because lets face it - 300rwkw is fairly cheap to do in terms of making the power. However making the power work for you is another story. A 240rwkw well setup car, would be much much faster and entertaining comparatively speaking.

Depends what you want.

[Hanaldo]

stock diff

stock suspension

stock brakes n rotars

stock radiator

stock clutch

275/30/19s 245/30/19s back n front with ku31s new treads 2000kms

just had a service 1200kms ago

basicly what your are saying is dont go crazy with the power until i upgrade handling and braking other wise ill be off the road in someones house

I agree with Ash 110%

At a minimum, get some good brake pads on there and change your brake fluid if you don't know when it was last changed. Your calipers will still be fine unless you are planning on getting into track work, but some slotted rotors wouldn't be a bad idea. I'd also recommend doing your suspension, and KU31's are definitely not my choice of tyre for 300rwkw. Your radiator might still be ok, unless again you're getting into track work, I'd leave it for now and just keep an eye on it.

You're also going to need to do another service. Most tuners I've spoken to will always change oil and filter when they install a new turbo, regardless of the condition the stuff they are throwing out. If you're doing injectors at the same time then that's a new fuel filter, etc. etc.

[zebra]

Well potentially yes - not that you will, but lumping on 140rwkw+ extra power and big top end... It's quite a bit step in a well complemented setup, let alone one that around it is otherwise stock.

If you've not driven a 300rwkw well setup car before, I'd urge you to do so first. Unless you are interested in 1/4mile racing only, you really need to spend a bit of coin in the other areas as well - or at least plan to shortly there after.

Too many inexperienced people get into high powered cars because lets face it - 300rwkw is fairly cheap to do in terms of making the power. However making the power work for you is another story. A 240rwkw well setup car, would be much much faster and entertaining comparatively speaking.

Depends what you want.

Yea look at ssRicho's car

From what I remember (been a while since I was on here lol) it has ~200rwkws and looks epic fun in the in car videos I've seen

Even my shitbox was awesome fun with sticky tyres and good brake pads

[discopotato03]

Aside from the life expectancy points , cars that don't handle stop and steer make them and their drivers look incredably stupid . You don't see road race cars with Pulsar spec wheels tyres brakes and suspension . Skylines came with "user friendly" suspension and R33s are what - 15 to 19 years old so anything std is going to be well past its use by date .

My experience is you can use more of your cars std performance once it does steer stop and handle better , good tyres alone make a phenominal difference but they will chop out quickly if the suspension is all floppy and out of alignment .

My vote goes to a good suspension kit that can be lived with ie the Whiteline Bilstein one , something you'll feel straight away and with good tyres does amasing things .

As a minimum I reckon your brakes need to be in as new condition meaning probably new discs and road friendly pads . Learn to renew the fluid or get it done every year or so for a roadie .

So handle steer grip stop . Many people find that less than 300 is bloody quick and often quick enough . If 260-265 floats your boat its significantly cheaper and should live longer .

Your call .

Edited July 25, 2012 by discopotato03

[wolverine]

You are all fun police.

A comfy 250-270rwkw, decent tyres, better brake pads, don't drive like a F-wit.

[ARTZ]

^^ Exactly its all Blah blah blah..I got 300kws with stock brakes and diff, nothing more than braided lines/fluid a set of bilsteins and some sticky as f**k tyres..

Its no doubt its not the best on track but its still plenty quick, plenty of fun and rips a mean skid.

I know you guys are always preaching this handling vs power thing but seriously, there are no rules..

[GTSBoy]

There may be no rules, but there are ways to make a car dangerous for someone not used to so much power, and ways to make it less dangerous. And also, as advised, better chassis with less power drives much better than worse chassis with more power. As far as I am concerned, that equals more fun.

[ARTZ]

Sorry not true, at high speed changing suspension geometry is just as dangerous as adding more power if you are not used to it..lets face it a Skyline will di the same speeds regardless of how much power you have, the only thing that changes is how quick you get there and this is easily controlled by your right foot..

[GTSBoy]

Justify your statement about changing suspension geometry. I don't think you can, unless you are going to argue that the car could be set up badly. In which case, it's a null argument, because no-one would recommend that you deliberately (or clumsily) do that.

[ARTZ]

...

[GTSBoy]

Hmmm. geometry <> stiff springs.

[ARTZ]

Quite easily, setting your suspension up all stiff can work great on the track but can cause a car to duck,dip and dive all over a bumpy back road and quite easily throw you off the road..

What you want is a balanced package...that includes more power around 250kws is a good start, 300 is a bit ridiculous but with a 3076 you can run low boost and turn it up as you get more skills.. Also its slightly laggy nature stops you getting in trouble to quick, giving you time to point and shoot . Add to that quality shocks and brake pads and a well serviced car. That means no oil leaks and no stuffed suspension bushes and get the best tyres you can get..

Sure John is mighty quick with his setup and 220kws but it has taken him 3 years and 3 cars to get to where he is. I also dont think you will hear him complain about the extra 40kws he now has on e85