Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm planning to boost at about 25psi. I wanted to replace my BOV with the Turbosmart dual port ( at low psi, it recircule, at high pressure, it will open up and vent it for a sweet sound)

Or should I recirculate completely the system? I heard a recircule BOV will elimate the stalling issue at low rpm but from what I read, the oem bov hold its pressure better so you are always on-boost between gear.

Will I really feel that extra performance giving by a recircule BOV or its negligeable ?

Thank you very much for your input as I never droven an OEM setup and don't know how the boost/pressure feel.

So THAT'S what I've been doing wrong all this time?! Damn.

Better change to the flutter sound, that HAS to pull the chicks right??

:D

... On a serious note, if you dont want the stock BOV, upgrade to GTR spec (if you dont already have one), or recirculate the Dual Port. I actually use a dual port recirculated.. Looks pretty ;)

Why don't you just go with the proven stock GTR setup?

You know it's good... Not really sure why you wouldn't then use it.

Well.. it was made for 13psi.. not 25psi.. Not sure if it will hold up and honestly not interesting in doing the test myself jsut to find out I have to re-do it agian because its leaking.

Are you kidding?

They hold over 30psi and over 550rwkw. Seen it with my own eyes on 3 different setups.

No need to do testing yourself when there are 100s of people before you. There are countless users here all running stock items. Just go look in the dyno thread or search "GTR BOV" :thumbsup:

Are you kidding?

They hold over 30psi and over 550rwkw. Seen it with my own eyes on 3 different setups.

No need to do testing yourself when there are 100s of people before you. There are countless users here all running stock items. Just go look in the dyno thread or search "GTR BOV" :thumbsup:

Well No I wasnt kidding. I spoke about oem bov at our latest skyline meet and most people were anxious about runing oem over 17-18psi. I will look into it. thanks!

Bah don't listen to them. I bet they've never tried to do it. Just like people saying you need a aftermarket FPR and what not for moderate setups... Fact is if the stock gear is working fine - you don't! Save your cash :)

I ran 24psi/GT3040 through a single GTR BOV on my RB25, it would flutter ever so slightly so probably a needed to be a bit bigger, or go to dual BOV's.

Will I really feel that extra performance giving by a recircule BOV or its negligeable ?

Thank you very much for your input as I never droven an OEM setup and don't know how the boost/pressure feel.

Your stock bov is recirculating, so why replace it if it works fine? An aftermarket bov will a) get you defected, b) cause stalling issues and popping as it vents metered air c) cost lots of money d) make everyone think you are a dickhead.

So you are basically paying money to sound like a dickhead, get defected and make you car run worse. Seems like value for money I guess?

Not much will be lucky if it holds 1bar

Holds over a bar no problem.

What psi is the stock gtst bov good or recommended for?

Plenty, get a GTR bov if you have issues, they will run 30psi fine.

edit: on 18psi with a stock rb25 bov I get a tiny bit off flutter when I back off on a WOT gear change, but it flows plenty for the rest of the time.

Edited by Rolls

I run an aftermarket BOV

If your gonna buy an aftermarket one, run full plumback no atmo. You should still hear the noise if thats really of concern, it will just be slightly quieter then if it was atmo

I absolutely agree that the Stock BOV will hold fine, I just dont like the way they sound.

Right now I run 2 blitz and one is seized. And I'm having stalling issue hence why I looked into recir BOV. I have a BNR32 that his mild tuned already. But 1 summer ago when my both BOV were working and at 17psi I had zero issue.

At the moment, I had 3 options:

1) Run one blitz and one OEM

2) Run the Turbosmart dual port alone

3) Run the turbosmart dual port and one oem

My friend's car actually run 2 HKS atmo and one OEM but I think the atmo take over the OEM bov. I will simply install it and run the car without bumper and see what can stop my stalling issue.

Edited by cobrAA

Hi guys might be a stupid question but what model gtr bov should you recommend or are they all the same?

I got defected with mine venting to atmo, I have an aftermarket plenum, stock bottom and aftermarket top half.

If my intake doesn't have a port to recirculate can I plumb it into my airbox? Or will that be not enough to pass defect clearance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...