Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm planning to boost at about 25psi. I wanted to replace my BOV with the Turbosmart dual port ( at low psi, it recircule, at high pressure, it will open up and vent it for a sweet sound)

Or should I recirculate completely the system? I heard a recircule BOV will elimate the stalling issue at low rpm but from what I read, the oem bov hold its pressure better so you are always on-boost between gear.

Will I really feel that extra performance giving by a recircule BOV or its negligeable ?

Thank you very much for your input as I never droven an OEM setup and don't know how the boost/pressure feel.

So THAT'S what I've been doing wrong all this time?! Damn.

Better change to the flutter sound, that HAS to pull the chicks right??

:D

... On a serious note, if you dont want the stock BOV, upgrade to GTR spec (if you dont already have one), or recirculate the Dual Port. I actually use a dual port recirculated.. Looks pretty ;)

Why don't you just go with the proven stock GTR setup?

You know it's good... Not really sure why you wouldn't then use it.

Well.. it was made for 13psi.. not 25psi.. Not sure if it will hold up and honestly not interesting in doing the test myself jsut to find out I have to re-do it agian because its leaking.

Are you kidding?

They hold over 30psi and over 550rwkw. Seen it with my own eyes on 3 different setups.

No need to do testing yourself when there are 100s of people before you. There are countless users here all running stock items. Just go look in the dyno thread or search "GTR BOV" :thumbsup:

Are you kidding?

They hold over 30psi and over 550rwkw. Seen it with my own eyes on 3 different setups.

No need to do testing yourself when there are 100s of people before you. There are countless users here all running stock items. Just go look in the dyno thread or search "GTR BOV" :thumbsup:

Well No I wasnt kidding. I spoke about oem bov at our latest skyline meet and most people were anxious about runing oem over 17-18psi. I will look into it. thanks!

Bah don't listen to them. I bet they've never tried to do it. Just like people saying you need a aftermarket FPR and what not for moderate setups... Fact is if the stock gear is working fine - you don't! Save your cash :)

I ran 24psi/GT3040 through a single GTR BOV on my RB25, it would flutter ever so slightly so probably a needed to be a bit bigger, or go to dual BOV's.

Will I really feel that extra performance giving by a recircule BOV or its negligeable ?

Thank you very much for your input as I never droven an OEM setup and don't know how the boost/pressure feel.

Your stock bov is recirculating, so why replace it if it works fine? An aftermarket bov will a) get you defected, b) cause stalling issues and popping as it vents metered air c) cost lots of money d) make everyone think you are a dickhead.

So you are basically paying money to sound like a dickhead, get defected and make you car run worse. Seems like value for money I guess?

Not much will be lucky if it holds 1bar

Holds over a bar no problem.

What psi is the stock gtst bov good or recommended for?

Plenty, get a GTR bov if you have issues, they will run 30psi fine.

edit: on 18psi with a stock rb25 bov I get a tiny bit off flutter when I back off on a WOT gear change, but it flows plenty for the rest of the time.

Edited by Rolls

I run an aftermarket BOV

If your gonna buy an aftermarket one, run full plumback no atmo. You should still hear the noise if thats really of concern, it will just be slightly quieter then if it was atmo

I absolutely agree that the Stock BOV will hold fine, I just dont like the way they sound.

Right now I run 2 blitz and one is seized. And I'm having stalling issue hence why I looked into recir BOV. I have a BNR32 that his mild tuned already. But 1 summer ago when my both BOV were working and at 17psi I had zero issue.

At the moment, I had 3 options:

1) Run one blitz and one OEM

2) Run the Turbosmart dual port alone

3) Run the turbosmart dual port and one oem

My friend's car actually run 2 HKS atmo and one OEM but I think the atmo take over the OEM bov. I will simply install it and run the car without bumper and see what can stop my stalling issue.

Edited by cobrAA

Hi guys might be a stupid question but what model gtr bov should you recommend or are they all the same?

I got defected with mine venting to atmo, I have an aftermarket plenum, stock bottom and aftermarket top half.

If my intake doesn't have a port to recirculate can I plumb it into my airbox? Or will that be not enough to pass defect clearance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...