Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im still waiting for the following to arrive, Tomei stud caps, Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor, ATI 1000hp balancer and a few other bits and pieces that i have forgotten. After countless delays and f**k ups im pleased that my build has picked up speed it seems like my goal of having the car back on the road at the end of the year is still in achievable.

Edited by Tyranus

Nice one Sedat. It is pleasing to hear that things are moving. There is nothing more frustrating than waiting for things to be done.

btw - what is the flow rate of that Nitto Oil Pump? Must a be a fair bit if it comes with a head oil drain.

Cheers Anth, the only flow rate figures i could find was 64.8 @ 7k rpm. I'll need to ask my engine builder to get 100% correct answer. The head oil drain was actually an add-on that i got. My engine builder suggested that i should have a oil return line from the back of the head going to the sump so i dont have any oiling issues when im revving the engine over 9k rpm.

Edited by Tyranus

Hey Sedat you probably are already aware of this not sure if it's stated in the info that comes with the pump but the Nitto pumps runs dual springs and you need to remove one otherwise your oil pressure will be around 140 psi. PM a member on her named Shazz as he just had to remove his engine to fix that problem.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Update:

Ive purchased a Nitto 1.1mm oil restrictor

ATI 1000HP Balancer

Tomei Cam Caps/Covers i think thats what they were called

The major update:

The block is back at the workshop and is being put back together :D :D :D

20130826_123810_zpsae58dedf.jpg

20130826_123756_zps2be02a6c.jpg

The block has had its final spray (gloss black) and will be assembled this week!

20130902_112938_zpse975da2f.jpg

And some comparison shots of rods for a 2JZ (Carrillo rod)(3.4 stroker build), RB30 (Nitto rod) and mine RB26 (Nitto rod).

20130902_113503_zps5ee9b719.jpg

20130902_113537_zpsd4354ada.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...