Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah nismoid, its worked out to be 2817cc. I thought it was a pretty sweet deal. They are currently advertised for 5200+shipping on spools site, so in essence i got the gearset, restrictor, gasket kit and tomei headgasket for under 800, not too bad i reckon.

yeah nismoid, its worked out to be 2817cc. I thought it was a pretty sweet deal. They are currently advertised for 5200+shipping on spools site, so in essence i got the gearset, restrictor, gasket kit and tomei headgasket for under 800, not too bad i reckon.

What size piston did you go for?

77.7 x 87 is 2770 cc

depends on the exhaust right? I got a mate with a HKS Hi-Power and I'm sure it's the same size all through.

no pretty much all of them, my hks 90mm exhaust HAD a restrictor (restrictor gone not the exhaust)
  • 2 weeks later...

Since the topic has been brought up...what are the weights of the different stroker cranks?

HKS, BC, TOMEI, etc?

Paul might know the weight of his HKS one.

Lol, oh man... Friday funny right?

About as funny as calling a turbo rubbish because it doesn't have a compressor map available?

I can't remember the exact weight difference, not talking a couple of grams here either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...