Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are there traces of it in the trunking from K&N - compressor?

Give the filter a clean, don't apply excessive amounts of the filter oil.

Then give it another run after wiping out the stuff shown on the comp inlet and see what happens.

has it ever had breather hoses connected?

How dirty is the K&N? as said above they are oil based and you wouldnt want to over lubricate them. If its dirty it could be getting passed the paper element.

is there much build up in the cooler pipes? That will give you a better indication of where its coming from.

looks like the K&N had it's mum lubricated lol... give it a wash and use very minimal amounts of the K&N lubricant, or better yet, get a dry type air filter, I'm not a big fan of oil based air filters.

I was thinking if excess blow-by could be the cause. Compression test prior to discovering this was between 130-117psi across all 6. The BOV doesnt fully open until it see's full boost (20psi), so it flutters like its blocked off most of the time. I bought the filter brand new only 3 months or so ago, havent cleaned it yet.

Since i put this turbo on earlier this year it was just running stock turbo with pcv connected. Had recently installed a catch can, noticed there was some oil thats been sprayed around the the catch can hose joins and breather. The clamps werent loose either, the thing felt empty.

Since i put this turbo on earlier this year it was just running stock turbo with pcv connected. Had recently installed a catch can, noticed there was some oil thats been sprayed around the the catch can hose joins and breather. The clamps werent loose either, the thing felt empty.

put some steel mesh/wool into it, might collect more oil vapour

but you said there are no breather hoses or bov pipes hooked up? So it cant be from there.

Unless were all confused now?

haha sorry, correct. My knowledge of these things is still poor. Can blow-by come back out through the intake plenum, throttle body, intercooler and then turbo?

it has to be the K&N if there is no other input into the intake pipe.

unless BOV flutter can force air back past the compressor wheel? couldnt imagine it being possible n to the level of oil that is there. But i dont have flutter so not surewhat it can do...

it has to be the K&N if there is no other input into the intake pipe.

unless BOV flutter can force air back past the compressor wheel? couldnt imagine it being possible n to the level of oil that is there. But i dont have flutter so not surewhat it can do...

These are my thoughts aswell. Ive got a cheapo dry filter i might use that again

The definition of "flutter", being reversion, means intake air being forced back out through the compressor wheel against its rotation. Hence the noise. If the pipework between the turbo and the engine is oily (and there may be some from the turbo itself) then oil could go back out through the compressor.

But that stuff looks like it has only been flowing in one direction....so I'd have to guess it is filter oil, or perhaps a load of water got at the filter at some stage, washed crap out of / through the filter and carried it to the turbo.

The definition of "flutter", being reversion, means intake air being forced back out through the compressor wheel against its rotation. Hence the noise. If the pipework between the turbo and the engine is oily (and there may be some from the turbo itself) then oil could go back out through the compressor.

But that stuff looks like it has only been flowing in one direction....so I'd have to guess it is filter oil, or perhaps a load of water got at the filter at some stage, washed crap out of / through the filter and carried it to the turbo.

ah ok it is pusing right the way through the compressor wheel. I thought it was only a pressure wave bouncing back n forth between the throttle body and the outlet side of the compressor...

And yes, agreed that it looks like it is flowing in from way upstream (filter).

But to be really sure pull off the pipe from the compressor outlet. If there is heaps of oil there then turbo seals + flutter is likely. If little or no oil then can probably conclude filter oil.

Is it just me or is the oil 'vortex' pattern going the opposite way that the air would be sucking into the compressor wheel?

IE: the compressor wheel is spinning clockwise (and so pulling air from the 'left' of the vanes) but the oil pattern seems to be going anti-clockwise?

Or have i misunderstood basic fluid/air physics? (most likely)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...