R34 Gtr Vspec Build

[wedge_r34gtr]

So…we started assembly late today

Picked the engine and crane etc from Paul’s – ute’s come in handy

Gearbox first – jack the car back up

Getrag’s are f’n heavy - We had to develop a bit of rudimentary scaff to get it in. (that’s Paul under the car doing up the cross member bolts)

And then as we forgot the engine crane brackets for the engine, we decided to put the fuel pump in – Rear seats out (sorry for the dark photo - forgot to turn on the flash on the phone)

Expose the fuel pump and change over for nismo unit.

Just a note on my seats - They have leather covers that fit like a glove. They look pretty good and keep the original seat trim in awesome condition.

After the fuel pump, it was getting a little dark to work so we called it quits till tomorrow.

Edited October 8, 2012 by wedge_r34gtr

[skyturbz89]

Hey Mate,

I've been chasing Paul for over a year now, he has some parts of mine that I would mind finding out what happened to, any chance I could grab his contact details from you, would love to get my car going again,

Lukas

[wedge_r34gtr]

Been a few days - been busy with family stuff.

Everything is in and ready to go, but there's a water leak somewhere we have to fix before we start her up

Will put on a better update early next week.

[jangles]

Hey Mate,

I've been chasing Paul for over a year now, he has some parts of mine that I would mind finding out what happened to, any chance I could grab his contact details from you, would love to get my car going again,

Lukas

Same. Haven't heard from him since he started this build.

[sycorb]

Hey Mate,

I've been chasing Paul for over a year now, he has some parts of mine that I would mind finding out what happened to, any chance I could grab his contact details from you, would love to get my car going again,

Lukas

good luck with that

[r32-25t]

Hey Mate,

I've been chasing Paul for over a year now, he has some parts of mine that I would mind finding out what happened to, any chance I could grab his contact details from you, would love to get my car going again,

Lukas

It amazes me he is still running when posts like this keep coming up every couple of months

[byebye]

Strange, a mate pays for an engine then all of a sudden he can't contact paul when this build starts and an engine turns up in this car! what a coincidence.

[hypo26l]

Same. Haven't heard from him since he started this build.

you bought the turbos from me 2 years ago for your build

[wedge_r34gtr]

Come on guys. What paul spends his time on his up to Paul. Don't spam my thread critising someones business.

Mods please delete the above comments. They have no place in this thread.

Strange, a mate pays for an engine then all of a sudden he can't contact paul when this build starts and an engine turns up in this car! what a coincidence.

Cute what your implying, but just untrue. As far as I'm aware jangles engine is almost complete- his assembled bottom end can be seen in some of my photos wrapped in plastic.

[johnbarry88]

Hey mate nice looking project. Just wondring why you are using single valve springs? Id hate to see a spring break and cost you alot of time and money, just going off previous experience.

[wedge_r34gtr]

Hey mate nice looking project. Just wondring why you are using single valve springs? Id hate to see a spring break and cost you alot of time and money, just going off previous experience.

Thanks mate,

Failed springs arern't fun :-(.

I'm using Tomei Type B's with the titanium retainers. Didn't go with a dual spring set-up as the engine redline will only be ~9000rpm and the cams are still relatively small.

The tomei's are proven to be very reliable in similar set-up's so hopefully there won't be any issues.

[wedge_r34gtr]

Sweet! Unlike mine that went up for a rebuild and came back totally replaced

Have you got pics of the plates etc? Just out of interest

pics of my carbon disks i just found...the metal plates look the same as any other clutch.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Awesome

[Piggaz]

Hey mate nice looking project. Just wondring why you are using single valve springs? Id hate to see a spring break and cost you alot of time and money, just going off previous experience.

At what point would you recommend duel springs?

[johnbarry88]

At any point, I'm just not a fan of single springs. At least with a dual spring you have a greater chance of keeping a valve in the head if the spring decides to break

[Stevoss]

wow its come a long way since i first saw it, build looks awesome

[wedge_r34gtr]

Thanks Steve, it’s taken a big step in the right direction.

Well it’s been hectic past three weeks; I’ve packed my house up for moving interstate, had my last grandparent unfortunately passed away and had an engine put back in the GTR. As you can appreciate, I was a little busy so I was more interested in getting things done then taking photographs.

Anyway, I did manage to take a couple and this is where I was up to last time:

Clutch on

Engine install

Installing the engine was a little tricky, it’s a bit of move down, push back, move down, push back repeated a few times until the gearbox input shaft spline lined up correctly.

After everything was connected back up, intercooler and radiator were hooked back up and front bar re-installed. I didn’t have time to create a custom recirculation pipe for my stock GTR BOV’s, so the HKS BOV’s got a rebuild (clean, modified spring and a much fatter o-ring) and re-installed for the time being

.

Now, it was time for some fluids

• Geabox – royal purple syncromax ~2L
  
• Transfer case – Nissan Matic D ~2L
  
• Attesa pump reservoir – Nissan Matic D ~0.5L
  
• Front Diff – Royal Purple ~1L
  
• Radiator - 8L of demineralised water and 1L of concentrated glycol free coolant.
  
• Sump – 9L of cheap shell oil for run in.
  

We had a small leak from the rear turbo water lines and front diff, but other than that everything was sweet!

Connect battery:

And then turn the key….followed by 15mins of scratching heads and checking leads wondering why it won’t start….until we realise the fuel pump fuse is missing and the battery is flat. We changed the battery, replaced the fuse and she roared to life. (Unfortunately no video – really wish I got a video). Anyway, Pauls method of bedding the rings involved:

~5 mins of Revving between 3.5-4.5k RPM (no holding), followed by 2-3min hold @ 4-4.5k RPM and repeating until engine is up to temp (or 3-4 cycles) then allowing the engine to cool and repeat this again. It’s critical for a decent seal, not to let the engine idle for the first ~30mins of operation.

Engine oil was then droped/replaced and the oil filter split for analyses – no debris and all good. It’s usually straight to the dyno for Paul’s engines, but there were still a lot of things to connect on this car.

First drive out of the garage in over 6 months -

Next up was the rear diffuser

Two of the brackets were really shagged.

After a realised everything was riveted on (which required drilling out to remove), I decided only to replace a couple of the brackets (enough to put it back on) and then do the rest in Perth. I should note that the RB motorsport diffuser kit was a really good fit too. Once I have all the parts installed again I’ll take some better photos.

Catch can, Oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit – This took a quite a bit of mucking around to get everything to fit nice, but i love how it looks (i'll take some better photo's once it's in Perth too).

And that’s was pretty all I got photo’s of. There’s still quite a bit more to be done to the car but we were just out of time. I really wanted to get DVSJEZ to tune the car, but we had to settle for a brief road tune of ~25km as they were picking the car up for transport to Perth. (As a bit of an update, they were meant to pick it up yesterday, but reportedly took one look at the car and said too low for the truck– we’ll be back next week for it. My new injectors and a few other required things are already on their way to WA so there still won’t be any dyno time to it reaches Perth)

Cheers,

Joel

Edited October 27, 2012 by wedge_r34gtr

[wedge_r34gtr]

And this is the current spec list for the car - the things in red are still to be done

Engine – Bottom End

• Stock block – dipped, prepped, grouted, bored, honed to 86.5mm
  
• Nitto/JE 86.5mm pistons
  
• ACL race series bearings
  
• ARP rod bolts
  
• Stock crank, grub screwed and balanced
  
• Stock rods, tested, prepped and balanced
  
• Nitto oil pump
  
• N1 water pump
  
• Ross 1500hp balancer
  
• Red R racing 8.5L baffled/gated sump with extended pickup
  
• Anticorrosion plating of all bolts/new bolts
  
• Nismo Engine mounts
  

Engine – Top End

• Red R ‘Stage 1’ custom port and seat job on head
  
• Chambers equalised
  
• Port matched intake manifold
  
• Stock plenum with recoated throttle bodies.
  
• Tomei type B valve springs + titanium retainers
  
• Tomei valve guides
  
• Tomei poncams 260/9.15 cams
  
• Tomei adjustable cam gears
  
• Gates timing belt kit
  
• New Nissan head/intake/exhaust studs
  
• Yellow jacket coilpacks
  
• Full nitto gasket kit inc. 1.2mm metal head gasket
  
• Red R racing modified CAS sensor
  
• Mines triple flow cam baffels
  
• Red R Racing catch can/washer bottle combo with braided lines
  
• Nismo oil filter cap
  
• Custom ‘Wrinkle covers’ with Red R Racing build plate (wasn’t ready)
  
• Anticorrosion plating of all bolts/new bolts
  

Engine - Hot Side

• Ceramic coated 2860-5’s with port matched exhaust housing and modified oil control.
  
• Ceramic coated R34 GTR N1 exahust manifolds – port matched (these are hard to find and are bigger than ordinary r34 rb26 manifolds)
  
• Ceramic coated R34 GTR Vspec dump pipes – port matched
  
• Refurbished stock heat shields.
  
• Custom Red R Racing Twin 2.75 to 4” equal length front pipe with V-band connectors and o2 sensor port (wasn’t ready)
  
• Custom 4” high flow 100cell metal cat with V-band connectors (wasn’t ready)
  
• Custom 4” catback with V-band connectors (wasn’t ready)
  
• Stock front pipe with o2 sensor port
  
• Stock cat
  
• 3” futjisbo geiken titanium exhaust
  

Engine – intake/cooling

• Stock airbox with Nismo R-Tune cold air Intake
  
• New Air filter
  
• Gutted MAF’s
  
• ARC full twin hardpiping kit painted teflon black
  
• New samco custom hose for ARC piping Kit
  
• ARC Twin entry intercooler
  
• Red R Racing modified HKS SSQS BOV’s
  
• Nismo oil cooler kit with FRP ducting and braided lines
  
• Custom oil filter relocation kit
  
• Flex-co 2” alloy radiator with Nismo high pressure cap
  
• New samco radiator hoses
  

Engine – Fuel system/other

• Nismo intank fuel pump
  
• 11mm Billet fuel rail (we were playing around with getting 10.5mm adapters made, but it was just too much hassel)
  
• 2200CC EV14 injectors
  
• Nismo fuel cap
  
• 5L undercar Surge tank + pump with braided lines
  
• New vacuum lines, heater hoses, boost lines etc
  

Electronics

• Greedy Profec B II boost controller
  
• Hatech platinum Pro ECU with wiring harness
  
• Haltech 3bar map sensor
  
• Tech edge 3A2 wideband o2 controller (4.2 sensor)
  
• Techedge lambda display (needs to be wired up)
  
• 1200CCA Odyssey battery
  

Drive Train/Suspension/Chassis

• Refurbed getrag (new bearings, syncro’s etc)
  
• Refurbed transfer box with modded plates
  
• Nismo clutch master cylinder
  
• Nismo gearbox mounts
  
• Jim berry custom clutch based on an Exedy carbon-D twin plate with billet flywheel.
  
• Replacing Attessa pumps/control unit/sensors as required to get the awd working
  
• Nismo/ARC/Stock suspension links (it’s a mix that I need to sort)
  
• Ohlins coilovers (need a bit of TLC)
  
• Aftermarket underbody bracing (not sure of what brand it is – its big, shiny and thick)
  
• Refreshed Front brake cooling ducts with new hoses
  
• N1 rear brake bracket upgrade (i.e. to run 322 rotors at rear)
  
• Project mu 322x30 SCR GT lightened rotors all-round
  
• Project mu brake pads
  
• Brembo callipers
  
• New front drive shaft
  

Aero/body

• Top secret full front diffuser
  
• Stock rear diffuser with RB motorsport bracket kit
  
• Mines front bar cooling vents
  
• Mines carbon cooling panel
  
• N1 vents for oil cooler
  
• Z-tune style carbon skirts and rear pods
  
• Z-tune style carbon bonnet (needs aero latches)
  
• Stock bonnet on standby
  
• Front bar needs replacing
  

Cosmetics/other

• leather seat covers
  
• Nismo 320km/hr speedo
  
• A working stereo
  

[sycorb]

just a quick note if your interested

i listened to paul about the standard r34 dumps and manifolds i think they were rubbish

i changed to tomei dumps and hks manifolds

i made 25kw more at the wheels with 4psi less boost and turbos came on 700rpm earlier

the car was totally different

dont know why he swears by the r34 set up its crap!

[wedge_r34gtr]

The dumps were my actually my choice - and they have been modified somewhat though. But they were selected when i was intially building a -9 setup. I will keep what you said in mind if i feel there is a restriction on the system.

The manifolds are not standard r34. There R34 N1 - there about halfway between expremes and normals in terms of size. You don't want to go too big with manifolds as it will hurt gas velocity. Bigger manifolds will give you a better top-end (ability to handle larger flow volume), smaller will give you better spool time (higher intial gas velocity) - so in my view, N1's are the best comprimise, but we'll see once it gets a tune.