Jump to content
SAU Community

Ryno's R32... Over A Decade And Counting

Ryno
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I haven't updated this in a while, but I've decided to get on the tools and get a few mods done to my car over these Christmas holidays.

Things that I've purchased are, a complete brand new engine and alternator wiring loom from wiring specialties (in the U.S.), a new Nismo fuel pump, a new Nismo clutch bracket and a new ARE intercooler.

The loom is still a few weeks away and it is the most expensive of these mods, but I've never been happy with the dodgy loom I've been living with. It was spliced together by an auto electrician when I did the RB25DET conversion over 10 years ago.

I got the clutch bracket swapped over this morning, it's not a particularly difficult job and took around 40 mins... The most frustrating part was getting the release spring back on.

Here is the new bracket beside the stock one, there's not a lot different to it. Just the extra piece circled, some extra tac welds and of course the Nismo grey paint, which adds an addition 5 bhp.

IMG_3752_zpsipbxq7um.jpg

The reason I chose to swap it out was because I was hearing some squeaking from the clutch pedal, as you can see by the below pic I had a crack in the bracket.

IMG_3753_zpsacy9y7u1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ryno
Ryno

For around the last 10 years or so, I have been constantly plagued with little electrical dramas due to the dodgy wiring from my RB25DET conversion. Unfortunately back then you couldn't buy an off the

Ryno
Ryno

My latest drama to fix was a leaking Power Steering rack... I was able to swap it for a reconditioned rack that cost $350. But at the same time I wanted to finally fix a problem that has been buggi

Ryno
Ryno

Yes I've been driving it to work every day this week. At the moment I have it set on around 8 volts and the steering is nice and light. I'm just a bit frustrated that I've only fixed it now... It's s

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I love it when new parts arrive! New interior door handles and Nismo Fuel pump...

IMG_3780_zpsjugprko6.jpg

I've now installed the new Fuel Pump, it wasn't quite a straight swap and required the hard fuel feed line to be shortened and two 5mm holes drilled in the bracket to mount the new base...

IMG_3781_zpshexnleh7.jpg

IMG_3782_zpscyo4qshb.jpg

This is the new pump compared to the Walbro that was previously installed. A little bit of a size difference!

IMG_3783_zpsuod2b0un.jpg

I also read this thread....

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page-1

and decided to direct wire in the 12v feed for the fuel pump. As I already have the car battery in the boot the install was fairly straight forward. I did it a little differently as most (in that thread) and removed the 12 volt feed pin and soldered direct to that. This makes the install as clean as possible and does not modify the fuel pump loom - so it can still be unplugged and removed (if required).

IMG_3784_zpsry1d4duj.jpg

IMG_3785_zpsblbop7bi.jpg

I took it for a test drive afterwards and the fuel ratios were very rich, so even though that Walbro pump was rated at the same litres per hour, it was delivering significantly less fuel. I had to take almost 10% of fuel out at the top end to get the ratios back to normal. Good thing about that is my injector duty has dropped so I have some extra headroom to make more power if I can convince the wife to let me change the turbo to an EFR 7163. :yes:

  • Like 2
Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just read your thread, great choice in mods and looks awesome.. how does a new R33 box feel, is the cost worth it over reconditioning an old one you think?

The new box feels excellent. After using it for a couple of years the only complaint I have is the synchro between 4th and 5th sometimes doesn't keep up with my shifting, but this may be a problem with my technique rather than the box.

For me, buying a new box was definitely worth it... From memory the new box cost around $2500 (through Just Jap) and was the most recent spec released by Nissan. At the time, the cheapest second hand box I could find was around $1300 and the condition would have been a complete gamble. So I may have needed to rebuild it later on, which would be another $1000 and more time with the car off the road.

However if you already have a R33 gearbox, that's most of the expense, so in your case it is probably better to just recondition that one.

Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got to love it when what you think is going to be a 40 minute job takes closer to 3 hours!

I ordered a Whiteline pineapple kit, as even though I already have urethane subframe mounts, I wanted to use two pineapples to angle the rear subframe for better traction. But when I got stuck into the job and lowered the subframe, I found that because of the width of the existing urethane bushes I wouldn't have enough length on the bolt to also fit the pineapple. So after a bit of head scratching I decided to make my own spacer out of a chopping board. This is what I came up with...

IMG_3788_zpsfnua8khx.jpg

This is the width compared to the Whiteline pineapple

IMG_3789_zpsgvuhbuyl.jpg

This is what it looks like installed... Not sure if I'll notice much difference, as it's not that much of a change but I figure it can't hurt to try.

IMG_3790_zpsdwjgyjwp.jpg

So now I have an opened but unused Whiteline Pineapple kit, if someone wants to grab it off me cheap.

Tomorrow, I'm going to tackle replacing the driveshaft centre bearing, so hopefully that isn't another half day affair!

Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fortunately replacing the centre bearing was fairly straight forward and only took me around 2 hours. I used this DIY to help tackle it...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150909-tail-shaft-centre-bearing-replacement/?hl=%2Btailshaft

The condition of my old centre bearing wasn't too bad, aside from the rubber surround sagging. So hopefully the new one lasts another 25 years!

Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For around the last 10 years or so, I have been constantly plagued with little electrical dramas due to the dodgy wiring from my RB25DET conversion. Unfortunately back then you couldn't buy an off the shelf loom to do the swap, so an auto electrician converted the loom to make the new engine work but without the wiring diagrams he didn't do the best job.

Fortunately those days are all over, because I have just installed my brand new loom from Wiring Specialties in the US. It wasn't completely smooth sailing on the install as I had to swap a couple of plugs over, but the loom is a work of art compared to the stock loom.

Half way through the install, old loom beside the new one...

IMG_3817_zps9uclg7al.jpg

I found some heat damage to the wires running around the shock tower on the turbo side... I've now routed the wires over the shock tower to prevent this occurring again.

IMG_3818_zpsysdunqou.jpg

All installed!

IMG_3824_zpsbjkzwikk.jpg

  • Like 5
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not the most exciting update, but I've just installed a new alternator - as my old one was on its way out.

I went for a 90 Amp upgraded replacement from Phase 2 Motortrend in the US.

image_zpsy7bpif0l.jpeg

  • Like 2
Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My gearbox plug (reverse switch) was different and I lengthened another plug to let me route the loom the way I wanted.

Also it was originally sent without a Z32 AFM plug, so I swapped mine over to get the car on the road. But they quickly sent another AFM loom, when I told them the issue.

  • 4 years later...
fullboost33 Rookie

fullboost33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, sorry for the major thread revival here...

I’m trying to get my R33 GTST running properly but having a whole lot of trouble controlling boost creep. Thanks to Ryno and his thread I managed to get myself the exact same manifold to chase some crazy turbo response seen in here.

Mine is also a standard stroke, standard cam 25det however my setup differs in that I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT, a 45mm hypergate, screamer and a 3.5” dump pipe and cat into a free flowing 3” cat back.

Ryno seems to have a nice boost curve however mine wants to go crazy. With a 7psi spring it’s spiking to 25psi. Even with no springs in the gate at all it’s still seeing over 14psi of boost before it even hits 5000rpm.

Was hoping you guys might be able to shed some light on what’s happening as I’m pretty stumped! I’m more familiar with LSs so this forum has been a gold mine of RB knowledge for me over the last couple of years, for that I thank all of you!

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, fullboost33 said:

Hey guys, sorry for the major thread revival here...

I’m trying to get my R33 GTST running properly but having a whole lot of trouble controlling boost creep. Thanks to Ryno and his thread I managed to get myself the exact same manifold to chase some crazy turbo response seen in here.

Mine is also a standard stroke, standard cam 25det however my setup differs in that I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT, a 45mm hypergate, screamer and a 3.5” dump pipe and cat into a free flowing 3” cat back.

Ryno seems to have a nice boost curve however mine wants to go crazy. With a 7psi spring it’s spiking to 25psi. Even with no springs in the gate at all it’s still seeing over 14psi of boost before it even hits 5000rpm.

Was hoping you guys might be able to shed some light on what’s happening as I’m pretty stumped! I’m more familiar with LSs so this forum has been a gold mine of RB knowledge for me over the last couple of years, for that I thank all of you!

How is the waste gate plumbed? To have no springs and hit 14psi is mental 

What timing are you running?

fullboost33 Rookie

fullboost33

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

How is the waste gate plumbed? To have no springs and hit 14psi is mental 

What timing are you running?

Gate is plumbed straight from the compressor cover to the bottom port, top is venting

As for timing I’m not sure I will contact my tuner

Thanks for the reply mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...