Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nah, don't buy a R33, get a R32 or a R34.

post-46584-0-35406900-1348125440_thumb.jpg

Wrong, R33 is the best bang for bucks out of all GTR's at the moment, you'd be stupid to pass up a car with brembo brakes, better chassis, better motor from factory, roomier interior, comfortable seats and much newer. 32r and 33r are similarly priced at the moment, hence my saying you'd be stupid to pass it up.

except 33 handles better than 32

This, I can confirm, especially in rain. Even though you don't drive hard, you'll notice the difference like I did.

33GTR. DO IT :)

+11ty

My 33 was only slightly modded. 330 hp at all 4 wheels, running Tein coilovers, twin plate clutch, apexi fc, air filters, decent exhaust, better fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Braided brake lines and Endless pads. Gave me 5 years of completely trouble free fun. Decent fuel usage unless you were at 8500rpm. It did everything comfortably and looked fat. It was good for a flat 12 over the quarter, which was fast enough for me without ever having to worry about blowing anything up. Beautiful car in every way. Take the time to get a good one. Not easy considering their age.

End of the day the R33 you'll buy won't be the same as reviewed.

150k kms on it, worn bushes/mounts all over the car, diffs, suspension, brakes, tyre advancements

And thats just to name a few things, there would be a long list if you thought about it so whatever you read is going to be pointless.

Go find one, test drive it.

Here are some interesting opinions on the R33 for your information.

http://www.r33gt-r.c...and-r34-gt.html

and

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2012/04/r33-vs-r34-gt-rs-continued-objective.html

The article by the respected Chris Harris is as above, but nonetheless, some good reader feedback.

Edited by Goombeh

Wrong, R33 is the best bang for bucks out of all GTR's at the moment, you'd be stupid to pass up a car with brembo brakes, better chassis, better motor from factory, roomier interior, comfortable seats and much newer. 32r and 33r are similarly priced at the moment, hence my saying you'd be stupid to pass it up.

So why did you sell yours?

So why did you sell yours?

Hoped to live in UK and travel in Europe but it didn't work out.

I'm back and possibly buying another one unless I like something else.

Hoped to live in UK and travel in Europe but it didn't work out.

I'm back and possibly buying another one unless I like something else.

BTW Jamie, have you actually drive 33 GTR?

Sure have, from mild tune to heavily tuned.

On what basis that R33 isn't that good, comparing to say R32/34 as mentioned in your earlier post as I'm quite interested in your answer.

I dare you give us your insight without mentioning looks, history, and weight (which is stuff all really).

Looks- Always personal preferance, Eg i cant stand the look of the 34, History, we all recpet the original godzilla ( dosent mean we all want one), And weight. As you said, Who cares unless your a dedicated track driver really?

On what basis that R33 isn't that good, comparing to say R32/34 as mentioned in your earlier post as I'm quite interested in your answer.

I dare you give us your insight without mentioning looks, history, and weight (which is stuff all really).

Never said the R33 GTR wasn't good.

I prefer the R32 GTR for it's nimbleness and the R34's and the slight further developments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...