Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people have different techniques and times, and depending on the clearances, condition etc. some guys say hard and fasst, after bed in go full power. otherwise some suggest bed in then wait 1,000kms while doing some loading processes before full power, but really,,.. if your unsure, call a tuner/engine rebuilder.

im bit curious here, what would be the reason for replacing the big end bearings on a tired motor? ... would replacing them on a motor with highish km's be a good preventative measure against spinning a bearing or would that make you more likely to spin one if you have say 300kw's?

Edited by SliverS2

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

My view for "running in" bearings, 0km.

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

Can you please let me know which brand bearings you used? I just want to avoid this brand that has these "sharp edges"... Most bearing failures are caused by detonation, failed oil pumps (no oil pressure,oil surge on track cars) and the thing you rarely get told about....... Foreign materials ie: DIRT.... and blocks,heads and every single part not being thoroughly cleaned...

In a hydrodynamic bearing there is no metal to metal contact. The bearing interface is a layer of pressurised oil. Thus, there is no "wear in" period, because when the bearing is running metal to metal, it is destroying itself.

Nonsense question did not get a nonsense answer.

ive always just gone easy for first 500klm doing low to mid load as the klms rack up. just so if theres any issues it can be noticed and shut off early rather then when its on song in high revs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...