Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people have different techniques and times, and depending on the clearances, condition etc. some guys say hard and fasst, after bed in go full power. otherwise some suggest bed in then wait 1,000kms while doing some loading processes before full power, but really,,.. if your unsure, call a tuner/engine rebuilder.

im bit curious here, what would be the reason for replacing the big end bearings on a tired motor? ... would replacing them on a motor with highish km's be a good preventative measure against spinning a bearing or would that make you more likely to spin one if you have say 300kw's?

Edited by SliverS2

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

My view for "running in" bearings, 0km.

Blew an oil pump, had new bearings here so put them in while it was apart, bearings that i took out were in good condition.

Sumone must have a general rule for fresh bearings in a motor with pistons already run in. ??

10kms? 100kms ? 1000 kms?

when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure

stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.

Can you please let me know which brand bearings you used? I just want to avoid this brand that has these "sharp edges"... Most bearing failures are caused by detonation, failed oil pumps (no oil pressure,oil surge on track cars) and the thing you rarely get told about....... Foreign materials ie: DIRT.... and blocks,heads and every single part not being thoroughly cleaned...

In a hydrodynamic bearing there is no metal to metal contact. The bearing interface is a layer of pressurised oil. Thus, there is no "wear in" period, because when the bearing is running metal to metal, it is destroying itself.

Nonsense question did not get a nonsense answer.

ive always just gone easy for first 500klm doing low to mid load as the klms rack up. just so if theres any issues it can be noticed and shut off early rather then when its on song in high revs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...