Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

i have a 1.5 way diff in my R33 gts-t, nismo from what i have been told and its due for an oil change.

just trying to find out what oil i need, cant find much on nismo website, and dont really know what else to be looking for...

motul have Gear 300 75w-90 listed (1.5L) on their site for the standard diff

redline have a shock proof synthetic 70w-90 (bit confusing http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/SPGO%20TR%2002_03.pdf ) listed which i recall hearing someone use

would either of this suit???? any other recommendations would be great

Edited by JCaSs1001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/
Share on other sites

Any LSD oil that meets GL-5 specs. The Nismo LSD oil is 75W-140: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lsd-gear-oil-75w-140-1-liter-62152 . It really depends on how you want the LSD to engage, 75W-90 will probably be the best for purely street driving, the second number (90) is how the LSD will behave when it's reached operating temperature, a higher number like 140 will make the LSD engage more aggressively at slow speed (roundabouts, parking etc).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6570615
Share on other sites

nice pics of the lsx90 on google..... lol (the girl)

i found the motul/nismo 75w140, but since im using it mainly on the street mayb i should go the lower viscosity.

LSX90 is as good quality as motul/redline/kaaz???... ive never really liked castrol oils and it looks a little cheap and nasty but i spose if they have the same rating then they have to meet the same requirements....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6571779
Share on other sites

If you can tell a quality of an oil just by looking at it, you sir, should look at a career with News Ltd. doing their horoscopes.

I've used Castrol Edge motor oil for 8 years now, LSX90 in the diffs - no issues over 5 motors/3 cars. If the bite of the diff is too harsh, just put some Penrite friction modifier in and that should sort it out.

A friend of mine was actually in oils & oil sales for many years. It's interesting to have a chat about all things brands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6571788
Share on other sites

The shockproof lineup is actually a little confusing since redline lists 2 different numbers for film thickness and fluid friction. Redline shockproof lightweight is an effective 75w140, shockproof heavyweight is an effective 75w250, shockproof superlight is the 75w90 one. People on here have used shockproof lightweight with success in the factory GTR LSD.

I use the regular Redline gear oil (non-shockproof) 75w90 in my factory LSD, personally I wanted a quiet diff, didn't want any locking up around roundabouts or chirping while trying to park. Although I did talk to my mechanic about this in the past and when servicing the Aus delivered GTRs at the dealerships they used a straight SAE 140 in the front and rear diffs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6572724
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

My Nismo 2-way arrived and am researching/googling what oil to run with it.

Had a look at the Castrol LSX90 and also found Castrol do a 85W-140 ( as do Nulon )

I read that Nismo oil is re-labelled from Motul ? http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=460691

Motul 75W-140

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-7527792
Share on other sites

I used the lightweight in the evo diff and transfer, it foamed up and spewed crap everywhere, even out the seals. Now running the heavyweight with no issues.

The Stagea seems to like the lightweight in the VLSD.

For a mechanical I would probably run a standard GL5 and change it more often.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-7528004
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...