Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Stagea Power Delivery Issue

Ranger

By Ranger,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ranger Newbie

Ranger

Posted
Posted

Hi All!

I hope someone can guide me in the right direction...

My M35 Stagea 2001 drives fine 95% of the time when cruising around. From slow driving right up to "very firm" acceleration (not flat out) it accelerates smoothly and without issue.

When I floor it, as it revs out, the power cuts in and out very aggressively and the car jerks because of this (it does keep accelerating while jerking). When I back off, stop and idle for 30 seconds, then drive again I get the power cutting in and out again (whether driving slowly or harder). This does not go away while I keep driving.

If I then park the car and turn it off, leave it for 20 minutes and then start back up, its back to driving fine again. It doesnt give an issue as long as I don't floor it again.

Basically its a perfect car that I cant floor it or else it spits the dummy!

Could it be fuel cut? Some form of Boost cut? AFM? Anyone else has the same issue?

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411782-m35-stagea-power-delivery-issue/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

It does sound like airflow cut, but that would only happen at full throttle. Are you saying it does this at cruise also? How bad is the surging, does it feel like you just backed off the throttle completely or worse than that?

Are there any dash lights up? I am thinking it is an ABS error for some reason.

Where are you located? I think you will need some parts swapped if there is no fault code to guide you in the right direction.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

It does sound like airflow cut, but that would only happen at full throttle. Are you saying it does this at cruise also?.

I think he is saying that it only starts to happen at full throttle, but after it happens he can then get it to occur again at less than full throttle.

I've had this exact same thing happen to mine - hit AFM cut during launch & then under very mild acceleration it would cut out again, & again. Switch off reset would fix the low accel problem, but main fault (AFM voltage above specs) still there. I fixed mine by adjusting the voltage.

This shouldn't happen unless he has a big intake or maybe a AFM on the way out??

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Can't see it being fuel cut if you can still accelerate. Fuel cut will try to launch your head through the windscreen!

Dirty AFM? Poor earth connection to the fuel pump? Spark plugs due for a change? Maybe a small leak on your BOV/intake piping?

bennyb110 Explorer

bennyb110

Posted
Posted

Could be the crank angle sensor!

My Stags had similar symtoms as described. Light throttle would be fine, WOT and the power would cut in and out. It did throw an error for crank angle sensor though.... ECU [fault code] reset would restore functionality, but with time, the interval between faults was getting shorter and shorter. The sensor was the one located adjacent to the starter motor in the transmission bellhousing. Once I swapped it out, the performance was drastically improved. Trawl around ebay in the US for parts like the sensors for our engines as they are considerably cheaper. In this instance I managed to loacted a new in box genuine crank angle sensor for $19 US + ship.

I would run the fault code procedure to identify or at least steer you in the right direction to tracking down the issue you are experiencing.

cheers

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I would run the fault code procedure to identify or at least steer you in the right direction to tracking down the issue you are experiencing.

Crank angle sensor now has two gongs - do this ^^ & let us know the result.

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Crank angle sensor now has two gongs - do this ^^ & let us know the result.

Another way to figure out whether its the crank angle is to unplug it completely and go for a drive to see if the problem disappears.....ps the car will be sluggish and will take about 8 turns to start.

  • 2 weeks later...
Ranger Newbie

Ranger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys for weighing in. FYI the car is stock. First port of call I will clean the AFM, check all lines, solenoid, hoses, vacuum, etc and see how she goes.

It just so happens the car was spitting out the crank angle sensor error code about 10 months ago. I replaced with brand new Nissan parts for both the Cam and Crank angle sensors. I then reset the warning light and it hasn't come back on since (not even when this issue occurs and it has happened a handful of times). I try not to boot it any more.

To clarify a couple of the posts:

- Commsman is on the mark; no issues normally from low to firm acceleration and it will drive fine all day long. Once I boot it the issue occurs and then from that point forward the issue occurs throughout the rev range (whether low, medium or hard acceleration) until I turn it off and give it a rest. Turn it back on then its fine again.

- It feels worse than backing off. It feels like a pretty aggressive fuel cut or something similar like you say (probably trying to protect itself). It basically pushes me forward in my seat each time it cuts - not so much throwing me through the window but not too far off. Let's just say the Mrs shits herself before then giving me a mouthful for thrashing it and "breaking it"!

I'm based in Sydney near the city. The car could probably do with a tune too plus I've had a whining noise under hard acceleration that I haven;t been able to work out. I don't think the issues are related. I think the whining is a front wheel bearing or something similar in the front drive line

Do you guys know any specialists who are good with the stock ECU and might also be able to check the drive line whining noise? I'm hoping ill be able to work out the power cut issue myself in the meantime.

Cheers!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Specialists? lol.

Tune the stock ecu? :no:

I had a car here recently that would fault only on full throttle, it turned out to be the throttle pedal resistor was faulty. Symptoms sound similar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...