Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did it properly.......

Sent my sump to NZ today to be sent back looking like below.

Looks like it should do the job. Holds about 9-9.5L.

PM me if anyone wants details. Basically cost me $800 including freight both ways. Only one I've seen with such good cooling fins.

sump1.jpg

Sump.jpg

  • 2 years later...

Yep, Bob's got it right. Racefab in NZ. Awesome workmanship and Rob is a lovely guy to deal with.

Only drama I had was NZ Post lost my sump when I sent it over. It eventually turned up but took a while.

Good thing about custom is you can put as many different drain points, breathers whatever you like in.

I bought an engine that came with a Trust sump extension on it and they're crap, wouldn't even contemplate it nowadays!

Yep, Bob's got it right. Racefab in NZ. Awesome workmanship and Rob is a lovely guy to deal with.

Only drama I had was NZ Post lost my sump when I sent it over. It eventually turned up but took a while.

Good thing about custom is you can put as many different drain points, breathers whatever you like in.

I bought an engine that came with a Trust sump extension on it and they're crap, wouldn't even contemplate it nowadays!

How are they crap?

Sorry to offend.....

When I say crap I mean collectively as a package I believe there are better options for not much more money. This is totally in my opinion based on having had both Trust and a modified sump, feel free to have your own.

My thoughts are why spend $450 on the Trust extension, plus another $250-300 (??) on getting a good welder to weld it on without warping the sump when for another $200-$400 you can get a fully custom sump with worthwhile volume gains and improvements to oil movement without lowering your ground clearance.

At the end of the day you choose what works best for you.

Yeah that is one thing i have to say is it does lower the ground clearance a little.

my car doesn't sit stupidly low so its ok but that is a good point if your a drifter or something with a car that sits on the sills then you could have an issue if you hit something solid haha.

I had a Trust sump and got rid of it for a Performance Metalcraft sump. Much larger capacity and and as has been said, no ground clearance issues. Given he motor is in an S14 it has massive clearance issues with the Trust extension. Leon at Performance Metalcraft was able to custom make the sump to my requirements and it fits like a glove

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...