Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Been meaning to do this for months now...better late than never so here goes...

I have always, well for as long as I can remember, loved the GT-R Skyline.

Previously I owned a couple of r32 gts-t Skylines and since selling my last one back in 2006 (link below) I have been waiting patiently…

http://www.skylinesa...20r32%20200rwkw

Since selling the gts-t I knew a GT-R would be next and in March 2012 the 5 year + wait was over....

IMAG0172.jpg

IMAG0180.jpg

I wasn’t really looking when this one came up locally…but it was in the best factory colour (in my opinion) and had minimal mods from standard. Bolt on parts included:

  1. Suspension (Tein coilovers)
  2. Exhaust (5Zigen cat back)
  3. M’s intakes with K & N air filters
  4. Wheels (Rota 17 x 9’s)
  5. ECU (Mines upgraded)
  6. Steering wheel

That’s pretty much it. Standard gear really. As soon as I looked at the car I started mentally making a list of all the things I wanted to change/fix/upgrade mainly to make it as reliable as possible. Growing up around motors you quickly learn reliability is paramount!

Man did I open a MASSIVE can of worms!!!

I literally only drove 100 kms or so before parking her up and started getting stuck in. It’s been sitting on the hoist for going on 8 months now…

IMAG0182.jpg

IMAG0183.jpg

Next begins the strip down...stay tuned, I am in deep now haha

Cheers guys! Well ask and you shall receive...

First things first, time to get car stripped down to see how she has fared for the last 20 + years!

Stock intercooler to be replaced with an ARC item....specs/pics to come

IMG_5430.JPG

Stock BOV's to be replaced with some mint OEM BNR34 items...pics to come

IMG_5431.JPG

Stock sump to be extended and HB to be upgraded...specs/details to come

IMG_5432.JPG

Not a real pretty sight underneath...to much to list here...details/pics to follow

IMG_5423.JPG

Front pipe and cat to be upgraded...specs/details on new front pipe to come

IMG_5426.JPG

IMG_5428.JPG

Really wanted to do a complete 'before and after' shot of the engine bay but must have been to into it to remember to take a photo of the complete engine bay before I got stuck in....this is at the point when I remembered

IMG_5451.JPG

IMG_5451.JPG

IMG_5453.JPG

IMG_5455.JPG

Don't know where to start with motor upgrades, pics will probably tell the story best...stay tuned

Why replace the bov's? They are the same across all models? If yours aren't in good condition then sure, but if they work then why bother? Just clean them up and put em back on?

Subscribed, keen to watch your progress

Where bouts in Bris are you? North, South, East or West?

I'm out West if you're out this way and need a hand sometime with anything

Why replace the bov's? They are the same across all models? If yours aren't in good condition then sure, but if they work then why bother? Just clean them up and put em back on?

Yeah condition of them was below average and CBF'd dealing with them now or down the line so a fresh set of OEM's was the go

Subscribed, keen to watch your progress

Where bouts in Bris are you? North, South, East or West?

I'm out West if you're out this way and need a hand sometime with anything

Cheers Brett. I am North Bris mate but cheers for the offer....always good to have an extra set of hands. Yours has come a long way. Nice work.

Man that's a clean 32 gtr - getting hard to come by these days.

Congrats on getting a car you've been wanting for so long, must feel good.

Cheers Nick. Sure does mate but standing back and taking it in when it's finished....that will be a good day

A sample of parts I've started collecting:

1. New Ross Tuffbond Harmonic Balancer

IMG_5604.JPG

IMG_5606.JPG

2. Mines pulley set

IMG_5592.JPG

3. Samco radiator and heater hose kit with Samco stainless fasteners

IMG_5594.JPG

4. Nismo engine mounts

5. HKS cam gears, timing belt and fuel rail kit

6. Billet oil filler cap (not just for looks, more details to follow)

7. Genuine Nissan N1 water pump & oil dipstick

8. ACL main & rod bearings

IMG_5608.JPG

what kind if a comment is that? If you dont like this thread, dont read it.

This forum is by far the worst I've seen, people always disrespecting each other.

Good stuff robbie, cant wait for more

what kind if a comment is that? If you dont like this thread, dont read it.

This forum is by far the worst I've seen, people always disrespecting each other.

Good stuff robbie, cant wait for more

Nicely said mate. Haters gonna hate.....haha

Cheers Ben. Stay tuned, will not disappoint!

Next stage, motor out. Ended up taking me a day or so. First time I'd done it and had heard it was not the best...

IMG_5627.JPG

IMG_5629.JPG

IMG_5650.JPG

IMG_5647.JPG

IMG_5661.JPG

Ended up being not tooooo bad. Few times had to ask myself 'how the fk am I going to get to that?!'

And there were a few calls to the professional. The one metre extension bar was a life saver for the top 2 bell housing bolts.

The big unit onto the stand...

IMG_5663.JPG

IMG_5664.JPG

IMG_5665.JPG

Decent amount of work to get to this stage. Plenty more to come, so much cleaning to do....faaarrrrkkkkkk!!

Well done man good to see another GTR getting the love it deserves. My engine took me 3 days to remove the first time although 8 hours of that was trying to split the gearbox from the motor (had no idea about the pull type clutch fork lol) But dont worry it gets better everytime you do it. Only took me 5 hours last time although i did cheat a bit and cut out the radiator support and leave the gearbox on.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...