Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So.. trying to find someone reliable/affordable to machine dogbones etc. for my V8 Supercar alcons is proving to be a bit challenging. (My calipers https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1094662_10153125748100301_2119536866_o.jpg )

The Alcon extremes (http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html) appear to be a much easier upgrade as they come with all the parts ready to install.

Aside from running a smaller rotor, what are the main differences between this kit and the calipers I already own?

Brakes are for a 32 GTR track car, mainly doing sprints.

Well the kit you have allows you to run a bigger rotor with better wheel clearance. It is lighter than the Advantage caliper. But those things are all bee's d1ck things. The one main reason why your calipers are superior is the titanium pistons work waaay better at keeping the heat from the pad out of the brake fluid.

But again, the Advantage kit is pretty damn competent on most track GTRs. Especially if you are going to get stung for $600 for a pair of radial mounts. $800-1000 for the hats and bobbins to work with the V8 Supercar rotor...then lines and pads. Buying $1500 calipers can quickly add up to serious money if you dont have a line on good combination rotors and hats.

If you are going to run those calipers I personally would go brab some off the shelf 380x35mm rotors, either aftermarket or off an R35 and then just pay the money for the radial mounts

Lug mount, is your traditional mounting style that comes standard. Radial mount calipers differ, in that the caliper bolts go through the top of the caliper to the upright. It's regarded as the better, stiffer way to mount the calipers. You can get radial mount dogbones.

So if I run R35 rotors I don't need custom top hats & bobbins?

Is a radial mount the same thing as a dogbone? Who does them for $600?

You can run whatever hat/rotor combination you like but Troys point is that the replacement cost of the rotor (or hat and rotor) is one of the big considerations in its selection. By using a part from a certain vehicle (eg R35) you are getting a component that will be made by a number of different manufacturers which will help keep the price down. Eg Project Mu 324x30 hatted rotor is thereabout of a grand. The 345x32 is double that. The other cost consideration is the price of a pad. same story there. Buy an orphan pattern and you will get screwed every time you need pads.

Yes a dogbone and a radial mount are, essentially the same thing. A radial mount uses bolts that align radially to bolt up the calliper, a dogbone has locating bolts at 90 degrees to that - hence the same as it looks a bit like a dogbone. You need to find a machine shop and give them some drawings. I have tried and utterly failed to find someone for this sort of thing. But this is a one off cost, not a recurring one.

So.. trying to find someone reliable/affordable to machine dogbones etc. for my V8 Supercar alcons is proving to be a bit challenging. (My calipers https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1094662_10153125748100301_2119536866_o.jpg )

The Alcon extremes (http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html) appear to be a much easier upgrade as they come with all the parts ready to install.

Aside from running a smaller rotor, what are the main differences between this kit and the calipers I already own?

Brakes are for a 32 GTR track car, mainly doing sprints.

I use Alcon front and rear kit for one year on my R34 GTR. So far 12 track events, and these brakes are best mods I've ever done.

Some 17s ... not all 17s. Based on my experience with 343mm setup and CSC calipers, AP CP5555 and F40/50 calipers and 343mm rotors thinhs like AVS Model 6, Work XD9s, 57 Gram Lights, CE28s etc wont fit inside 17" wheels. Teh CE28s fitted but not enough clearance

Things like Weds, LM GT4s, TE37s etc will do it easy. I have not tried them but people seem to enjoy some luck with Enkei RP-F1s etc

If you want to guarantee fitment inside a 17" wheel then you need to go 332mm rotor

Have just ordered RS 19's for the front for the advantage calipers on a R33 GTR. Will report back.... Anything would be better than the 2500's.

Did you mean DS2500 or DS Performance ? I thought they come with DS Performance http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

DS Performance pads are better than I thought. When mine kit came, I was ready to put RS29 for first use, but my mechanic put original pads ( DS-P ) by mistake. I can say, for normal street use, they are not bad. I haven't tested them on track, but if someone use car on street only, DS Performance are not bad choice.

I heard that Alcon kits what we buy, are street legal in Europe, that's why they come with street legal pads.

Did you mean DS2500 or DS Performance ? I thought they come with DS Performance http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

You could be right.

Either way, the pads that the kit comes with are junk.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...