Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a stock rb25 turbo, prefer an R34 OP6, but will take what is available and in good condition. Not looking to buy for another few weeks yet, but thought I'd post up now.

Thanks.

I have a 33 (2IU) stocker that's in decent condition if you can't track down an op6

Sweet! That could be the go. How's the shaft play? Any idea how much boost it's run?

I've just bought an rb25det motor with a few fun bits, minus turbo. Was running GCG highflow before. I am going to run stock turbo just until I can afford to upgrade then retune the ECU, but might be on there for 6-8 months.

Sweet! That could be the go. How's the shaft play? Any idea how much boost it's run?

I've just bought an rb25det motor with a few fun bits, minus turbo. Was running GCG highflow before. I am going to run stock turbo just until I can afford to upgrade then retune the ECU, but might be on there for 6-8 months.

Never ran more than stock boost (7psi) and there's minimal shaft play. Was running fine before I removed it.

Can anyone help me out with this panel and vent in good cond.

Silly me a whiles ago decided it was a good place to put a boost gauge (which it is) but now I want it back to OEM look.

Thanks in advance.........oxox

Yes good when stationary and you move a little to see it.

As soon as your driving it's pisspoor ! and when I want a quick glance whilst going for it - it's f**ken usless

and yes the interior is immaculate (in Bob's ADM). Good to use for refrence pic too :)

I have one somewhere as iv got a gauge there. I was going to put it back in as my new racepak dash can display boost. Wait what? :P

If you want it ill swapsie it for a cluster surround + cash your way if you find it. Either way you know where i live and have my number :)

It should do. Ill get a spare to modify anyway, ill make the bloody thing fit :P

I want to position it so i can still see the fuel gauge. If i cant its no biggy, ill just have to use a button to reset fuel used and display that.

Just checked my shaft play today, A lot worse than I though, defs going to need to change turbo pretty soon.

Am I able to get away with an R33 turbo? If anyone hears of anyone R34 OP6 turbo for sale send them my way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...