Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good to hear you got it sorted easily and most importantly cheaply

Many thanks - definitely the place to go people - the owner has a Skyline - his and mine could be twins---!!! I ended up staying out there for almost an hour - we got chatting (as you do with another Skyline owner). He has this plastic clean stuff in a tube - got in from Just Jap he said. Anyway he cleaned my headlights and they came up a TREAT. All that yellow milky yuk that gets over them is goooonnnnee

;):)

  • 2 weeks later...

I had some work done by Canberra Motor Works. Cost nearly twice as much as originally quoted, twice as much as another quote, three times longer to do than they said (done lots of these mate), and they only charge $90 an hour for the 19 year old. Included strategic application of body scratches and the deliberate defacing of original underbonnet decals. Apparently I wanted that done for $90 an hour. Oh and a bad photocopy of an owner's manual for only $20.

Quality work at unrealistic prices. Can't recommend them more lowly.

Figured it's worth posting, the NRMA 24 Hour Battery guy showed up today nice and early. Wasn't the most talkative guy but he was very quick. Tested my original battery which was dead, and managed to take it out and put the new one in without removing my rear strut bar so i'm pretty happy about that. The replacement battery was $109 and comes with a 2 year warranty.

I had some work done by Canberra Motor Works. Cost nearly twice as much as originally quoted, twice as much as another quote, three times longer to do than they said (done lots of these mate), and they only charge $90 an hour for the 19 year old.  Included strategic application of body scratches and the deliberate defacing of original underbonnet decals. Apparently I wanted that done for $90 an hour. Oh and a bad photocopy of an owner's manual for only $20.

Quality work at unrealistic prices. Can't recommend them more lowly.

EEEEEEEWWWWWWWW - thats terrible

Jaysus - you should've written 'em a REAL nasty letter after that and put a very visible CC: on it to Fair Trading and some sort of Automotive Association (like NRMA) and the ACT Ombudsman as well... Don't get mad - get even!!! ;):rofl:

Just had my R34 serviced for the big run back to Cairns.  Had it serviced by Joe Fister at the Mobil Servo at Garran.  I have nothing but praise for the guy.  Only required a basic service this time round but he is a Skyline fanatic.  Many thanks to Jeremy for the recommendation.  Motul 4100 Turbo light in the engine, Redline in the gearbox and Motul 300 in the diff.  All good I say.

Cheers

Muz

Agreed!! :rofl:

I got brake pads, the discs machined, oil & filter change, gearbox oil change, new spark plugs...plus the usual check over of everything... they also fixed my mis-firing i was getting at high revs.

very nice guys (Joe and Charlie), very helpful..and Joe loves his skylines!! ;) I'll be going back for sure....and not just because Joe promised me a ride in the other wine red R33 they had there that has apparently had some serious $$ spent hehe :)

that otherwine red R33 is his friends jason's and it has had some $$$$ spent on it.....when i was down in canberra we were getting them worked on togerther and my only retriction was the $$$ so ultimately he won when it came to power but i won when it came to driving skills HAHAHAHAHA

Jeremy

Figured it's worth posting, the NRMA 24 Hour Battery guy showed up today nice and early. Wasn't the most talkative guy but he was very quick. Tested my original battery which was dead, and managed to take it out and put the new one in without removing my rear strut bar so i'm pretty happy about that. The replacement battery was $109 and comes with a 2 year warranty.

$109 is good, i take it that you went for the base model battery? i think they have the best one for like $149 or something.

i think i might have to get mine checked, alot of the time in the last few months the car seems to have no charge and barely starts!? the other wierd thing is that my parkers always stay on while the car is on. and my dashlights too, i think i must have cross-wired something when i installed my high mount brake light.

i don't think it was the base battery... i dunno... the guy knew his stuff and we haven't had a problem with it yet.

On another note i had my alarm completely installed today. My dad had taken it down at 8 in the morning on Friday, and by 4 they were still working on it, asked him to bring it back at 8 on saturday morning...apparently there was only an hours work left but it turned out to be about 3... anyways, got the car back and the alarm is fantastic. Not a problem yet.

Very quality installation and all-round nice guys to deal with. Can't see any scratches or marks on the car and the section of dash that had to be cut is neat and clean.

If you need any auto-electrical work done then definately see the guys at the Tuggers auto eletrician down near the Wollworths servo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey,

I'm looking at getting a FMIC for my R32 but can't seem to find any kits.

Anyone know who stocks them in ACT or Sydney?

Also anyone done this sort of work before?

Do you need to cut any metal, I had friends who have installed FMIC's themselves on 200SX and they needed to cut holes near the battery....ect

Also if anyone knows how much the kits might cost?

Don't know about ACT but Advan in sydney would probably have a couple of Jap brands in stock. Give em a call - could be looking at up to $2000 for a jap kit with all piping! People have recommended Nengun for good deals and quick delivery from Japan. I read that someone got a HKS type s kit for r32 gtr for less than $1500 through them.

  • 2 weeks later...

I think I need to get my gearbox rebuilt.

I just want it to change gear smoother, when I change gear into 2nd i feel all the cogs moving so I have to force it in not nice to cruise around, also going into 3rd I have to got to the middle of the H pattern box then into 3rd so I have to wait about 1/2 a second before, now I've driven other cars and they change alot smoother than mine.

I have changed the oil and replaced it with redline but still no good.

I wonder if anyone knows where I can get it rebuilt, I don't want to pay heaps either, but then gain who does :)

Any suggestions from people who have had this work done before would be appreciated.

Cheers Adam

Agreed!! :)  

I got brake pads, the discs machined, oil & filter change, gearbox oil change, new spark plugs...plus the usual check over of everything... they also fixed my mis-firing i was getting at high revs.

very nice guys (Joe and Charlie), very helpful..and Joe loves his skylines!! ;) I'll be going back for sure....and not just because Joe promised me a ride in the other wine red R33 they had there that has apparently had some serious $$ spent hehe ;)

Finally got to ride shotgun in their wine red line!

Still can't get the grin off my face - :wassup: !

That is one powerful car.

Should prolly post back that my dad saw Ed at intergra autmotive and he had a look over the car. He sure knows his stuff! My car had an afermarket speedo (NISMO) put on at about 40,000 kilometres which made the reading start at zero again. Anyways, it's showing 28,000. Took the car to Ed, he had one look over it not knowing the deal with the odometre and told us that it definately hadn't done 28,000 but closer to 70,000 which was spot on.

A few things were dont to my car, to the tune of $1300... although i can't say i was surprised as the car had been sitting around for over a year unused not including the time it spent in Japan.

To cut it all short, haven't had a problem since and the car is running better for it, more responsive then it was before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...