Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good to hear you got it sorted easily and most importantly cheaply

Many thanks - definitely the place to go people - the owner has a Skyline - his and mine could be twins---!!! I ended up staying out there for almost an hour - we got chatting (as you do with another Skyline owner). He has this plastic clean stuff in a tube - got in from Just Jap he said. Anyway he cleaned my headlights and they came up a TREAT. All that yellow milky yuk that gets over them is goooonnnnee

;):)

  • 2 weeks later...

I had some work done by Canberra Motor Works. Cost nearly twice as much as originally quoted, twice as much as another quote, three times longer to do than they said (done lots of these mate), and they only charge $90 an hour for the 19 year old. Included strategic application of body scratches and the deliberate defacing of original underbonnet decals. Apparently I wanted that done for $90 an hour. Oh and a bad photocopy of an owner's manual for only $20.

Quality work at unrealistic prices. Can't recommend them more lowly.

Figured it's worth posting, the NRMA 24 Hour Battery guy showed up today nice and early. Wasn't the most talkative guy but he was very quick. Tested my original battery which was dead, and managed to take it out and put the new one in without removing my rear strut bar so i'm pretty happy about that. The replacement battery was $109 and comes with a 2 year warranty.

I had some work done by Canberra Motor Works. Cost nearly twice as much as originally quoted, twice as much as another quote, three times longer to do than they said (done lots of these mate), and they only charge $90 an hour for the 19 year old.  Included strategic application of body scratches and the deliberate defacing of original underbonnet decals. Apparently I wanted that done for $90 an hour. Oh and a bad photocopy of an owner's manual for only $20.

Quality work at unrealistic prices. Can't recommend them more lowly.

EEEEEEEWWWWWWWW - thats terrible

Jaysus - you should've written 'em a REAL nasty letter after that and put a very visible CC: on it to Fair Trading and some sort of Automotive Association (like NRMA) and the ACT Ombudsman as well... Don't get mad - get even!!! ;):rofl:

Just had my R34 serviced for the big run back to Cairns.  Had it serviced by Joe Fister at the Mobil Servo at Garran.  I have nothing but praise for the guy.  Only required a basic service this time round but he is a Skyline fanatic.  Many thanks to Jeremy for the recommendation.  Motul 4100 Turbo light in the engine, Redline in the gearbox and Motul 300 in the diff.  All good I say.

Cheers

Muz

Agreed!! :rofl:

I got brake pads, the discs machined, oil & filter change, gearbox oil change, new spark plugs...plus the usual check over of everything... they also fixed my mis-firing i was getting at high revs.

very nice guys (Joe and Charlie), very helpful..and Joe loves his skylines!! ;) I'll be going back for sure....and not just because Joe promised me a ride in the other wine red R33 they had there that has apparently had some serious $$ spent hehe :)

that otherwine red R33 is his friends jason's and it has had some $$$$ spent on it.....when i was down in canberra we were getting them worked on togerther and my only retriction was the $$$ so ultimately he won when it came to power but i won when it came to driving skills HAHAHAHAHA

Jeremy

Figured it's worth posting, the NRMA 24 Hour Battery guy showed up today nice and early. Wasn't the most talkative guy but he was very quick. Tested my original battery which was dead, and managed to take it out and put the new one in without removing my rear strut bar so i'm pretty happy about that. The replacement battery was $109 and comes with a 2 year warranty.

$109 is good, i take it that you went for the base model battery? i think they have the best one for like $149 or something.

i think i might have to get mine checked, alot of the time in the last few months the car seems to have no charge and barely starts!? the other wierd thing is that my parkers always stay on while the car is on. and my dashlights too, i think i must have cross-wired something when i installed my high mount brake light.

i don't think it was the base battery... i dunno... the guy knew his stuff and we haven't had a problem with it yet.

On another note i had my alarm completely installed today. My dad had taken it down at 8 in the morning on Friday, and by 4 they were still working on it, asked him to bring it back at 8 on saturday morning...apparently there was only an hours work left but it turned out to be about 3... anyways, got the car back and the alarm is fantastic. Not a problem yet.

Very quality installation and all-round nice guys to deal with. Can't see any scratches or marks on the car and the section of dash that had to be cut is neat and clean.

If you need any auto-electrical work done then definately see the guys at the Tuggers auto eletrician down near the Wollworths servo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey,

I'm looking at getting a FMIC for my R32 but can't seem to find any kits.

Anyone know who stocks them in ACT or Sydney?

Also anyone done this sort of work before?

Do you need to cut any metal, I had friends who have installed FMIC's themselves on 200SX and they needed to cut holes near the battery....ect

Also if anyone knows how much the kits might cost?

Don't know about ACT but Advan in sydney would probably have a couple of Jap brands in stock. Give em a call - could be looking at up to $2000 for a jap kit with all piping! People have recommended Nengun for good deals and quick delivery from Japan. I read that someone got a HKS type s kit for r32 gtr for less than $1500 through them.

  • 2 weeks later...

I think I need to get my gearbox rebuilt.

I just want it to change gear smoother, when I change gear into 2nd i feel all the cogs moving so I have to force it in not nice to cruise around, also going into 3rd I have to got to the middle of the H pattern box then into 3rd so I have to wait about 1/2 a second before, now I've driven other cars and they change alot smoother than mine.

I have changed the oil and replaced it with redline but still no good.

I wonder if anyone knows where I can get it rebuilt, I don't want to pay heaps either, but then gain who does :)

Any suggestions from people who have had this work done before would be appreciated.

Cheers Adam

Agreed!! :)  

I got brake pads, the discs machined, oil & filter change, gearbox oil change, new spark plugs...plus the usual check over of everything... they also fixed my mis-firing i was getting at high revs.

very nice guys (Joe and Charlie), very helpful..and Joe loves his skylines!! ;) I'll be going back for sure....and not just because Joe promised me a ride in the other wine red R33 they had there that has apparently had some serious $$ spent hehe ;)

Finally got to ride shotgun in their wine red line!

Still can't get the grin off my face - :wassup: !

That is one powerful car.

Should prolly post back that my dad saw Ed at intergra autmotive and he had a look over the car. He sure knows his stuff! My car had an afermarket speedo (NISMO) put on at about 40,000 kilometres which made the reading start at zero again. Anyways, it's showing 28,000. Took the car to Ed, he had one look over it not knowing the deal with the odometre and told us that it definately hadn't done 28,000 but closer to 70,000 which was spot on.

A few things were dont to my car, to the tune of $1300... although i can't say i was surprised as the car had been sitting around for over a year unused not including the time it spent in Japan.

To cut it all short, haven't had a problem since and the car is running better for it, more responsive then it was before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...