Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol. My last post got all jacked up. I'm trying to find part numbers in FAST. Does anyone have a N1 chassis code?<br /><br />Sent from my SC-03D<br /><br />

That'd be it. Chef bought it for me a couple of months back. Just waiting on that all important comp plate. Car is based in NSW unfortunately.

Hope to have it out at a drive sometime this year.

Well done! Nice car. Enjoy it when the plate comes through. They're superb!

Does yours have a driver's airbag?

Hi Guys

V Spec II

Chassis number: BNR32 311842

Just got my mine through Iron Chef.

Car currently has 34,000km and is 100% stock except for Nismo pipes coming off the turbo.

Hopefully the car will be here and on the road in around 2 months.

Hey Mate

How did this car set you back if you dont mind me asking, you can pm me if you like thanks, i been thinking of getting one put prices are all over the place....thanks

yours is an awesome example .......

Edited by AsM

Hi,

Prices do vary but the really nice ones cost a fair bit more. V Spec's appear to command around $10K more than a GT-R in similar condition/kms.

Here's one that went through recently;

http://prestigemotorsport.com.au/stock/show_car.php?id=875

Mine was more than this due to the lower kms and better interior. The one above has a couple of mods, turbo timer, exhaust etc which I was hoping to avoid.

Good luck and let us know how you get on. ]

Nice!

With full Nismo Body Kit too!

I was told, also being a Black colour V-Spec II, it adds more value to the car.

Either due to the popularity / demand or the numbers that were made of the car.

Nice!

With full Nismo Body Kit too!

I was told, also being a Black colour V-Spec II, it adds more value to the car.

Either due to the popularity / demand or the numbers that were made of the car.

That's debateable. If it is the case then it isn't the build numbers as there are other factory colours that are much rarer for VSPEC 1 &2.

Black is always popular though, so is the Gunmetal Grey as it is "The Original" R32 GTR colour.

Edited by RS4StagMan

That's debateable. If it is the case then it isn't the build numbers as there are other factory colours that are much rarer for VSPEC 1 &2.

Black is always popular though, so is the Gunmetal Grey as it is "The Original" R32 GTR colour.

Yeah, sure :)

I recently just spoke to a new owner of a Black V-Spec II and that's what he said...

Due to the popularity of people wanting a Black coloured one.

I get the impression that those N1/Nismo hood lips and boot spoilers are more trouble than they're worth - the steel structural inserts rust and 'blow' the surface. I kinda wished that mine had had them specified when it was delivered, but I'm glad it didn't now. The Nismo front bar though, that's different. I lurve the fact that mine has one ;)

I'm not a mad fan of the black though. Very hard to keep a black car looking clean, whereas my Gang Ray Metallic car can get really grotty and it still looks pretty good - until you get close!

I'm not a mad fan of the black though. Very hard to keep a black car looking clean, whereas my Gang Ray Metallic car can get really grotty and it still looks pretty good - until you get close!

Agreed. Black looks awesome when its well cared for and 100% clean. As soon as it rains or even gets dusty then its downhill from there.

I was very happy to get metallic grey.

  • 2 months later...

It took me long enough to get around to doing this.. But here we go:

  • Model of car V-Spec II, Built mid '94 somewhere
  • 'Chassis No' code BNR32310112
  • 'Model' code from the chassis plate
  • Photo of the blue chassis plate that is fixed to the car in the driver's side of the engine bay
  • Where the car is located Located in Bathurst

My theory (which is highly theoretical, as far as theories go) is that the car may have a history as a pace car or similar, it has marks which appear to be from a light bar on the roof, it had harnesses, braided lines, bonnet pins, castor rods, Nismo body braces, twin plate, master cylinder stopper, HKS boost controller, hard piping kit, Nismo clutch slave and nismo dash. Also still had ceramic turbos, stock suspension, speed limiter, all interior in good nick, no scratches on the front lip etc. I have tried to find some form of evidence to back this up, but have found nothing other than what was on the car.. Either way, it is a bit rough, with clear coat coming off, and the paint on the bonnet is like sandpaper, but I wanted to own a V-Spec II for 10 years before I bought it, and it will never be for sale..

Oh, and there might be another GTR in the family..

post-26910-0-94484800-1373616437_thumb.jpg

post-26910-0-88412200-1373616529_thumb.jpg

That's awesome iplen - it does sound like a pace car. It looks fierce.

I reckon I remember another one of your posts somewhere. Isn't the R33 your Mum's?

And yes, how did you go against that Holden?

  • 2 weeks later...

I think I can post here too now.....

As of yesterday....

  • Model of car V-Spec II, Built Oct 94
  • 'Chassis No' code BNR32313245

Also sourced from the Iron Chef (I think i can blame Cherry Racer - they teased me with a picture of his car as one of their recent imports ;-)

Short details:

Silver

Stock

Single owner

17,300 kms (full documented service history)

Grade 5A at auction

Obviously still in Japan so here's the auction snap (already plastered in other part sof the forum - but just so happy right now ;-)

post-24453-0-70293000-1374821750_thumb.gif

Cheers

The Baron

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...