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There's a difference between putting the car on a dyno for a tune and going to dyno comps.

And there it's 2 reasons why 86s are so popular in Japan. One is that they were made popular by a cartoon about drifting. The other is that they were a cheap rwd car. You will find that these days most people drifting them won't have the stock motor. You will also find that despite being popular, they are actually a pretty poor car to drift.

And i think you will find that it takes as much skill, if not more, to drift a high powered car. For starters you will be entering corners at higher speeds. Secondly, being a bit too happy with the right foot is more likely to make you spin out.

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Shame that's not you driving. And the fact you picked a poor example of n/a drifting.

The reality is, if you go to Japan, n/a drivers are more respected because of the skill that is required to drift. Look at all the 86's that drift.

It takes no skill to 'unleash 350+kw' any f**kin bogan can put his foot down. But to throw an underpowered car into the same lines takes 100% more driver skill.

And if your car doesn't go on dynos you're gunna be spending money on more than just tyres...

Erm, no, no and no.

N/A drifting isn't big and popular, super close, with the most angle (You can't get and hold angle without more power then an NA RB25 can produce), and most smoke IS popular, if it wasn't, then why is that what drifters are scored on?

Secondly, you're showing you've never driven a car that can break in a power slide at 140+KM/H other wise you wouldn't be claiming any muppet can do it, high speed + angle = alot harder to control then sliding in second.

Secondly, I grabbed the only skyline N/A drifting I could find on youtube quickly.

And if my car doesn't go on a dyno it's going to cost me money how now? I'm unsure how not using a device that I have to pay to use (If I wanted to) will cost me money by not using it...

Well it depends on what your after, if youre just drifting for fun, getting that adrenalin rush going side ways then 300hp is more than good enough. If youre into hard core drifting full competing and shit then yea go big power but its gonna cost ya a butt load of money. Going through tyres like theres no tomorrow.

This is a stupid comment, im going to talk on behalf of most N/a skyline owners here. WE"RE ON OUR BLOODY P's! N/a skylines are the closest we can get too without breaking road rules and regulations by purchasing a gtst/gtt or gtr. Sure talking about modding an n/a skyline sounds stupid to you guys (like exhausts and cai's), but what else can we do? we crave performance and want to abide by the laws at the same time, we are just like you. Its not like we cant afford a turbo or anything, i would of been more than happy purchasing a turbo'd skyline but cant. N/a skyline was the best i could get being a Japanese car enthusiast. This is something 95% of the people on this whole website wont understand. Most of the people here have been able to purchase turbo'd cars the day they got their p's. So yea cheers for your insensitive comment.

To this guy, find me an NA RB25 that is producing 300HP... You do know that is around 225KW, IE, the region of 1Bar of boost + tuning on an RB25... IE, turbo power territory... IE, something a nicely powered car will produce... You're just helping us prove our point.

Secondly, your claim is the stupid part. You're all here saying "Our cars are not slow, but we would buy a turbo car because it's fast but we can't legally... But our cars aren't slow... But we only bought these slow cars because we have to"...

Are you lot even freaking listening to yourselves?!

*Face Palm* Some days i dont know why i bother defending the NA guys when all they seem to do is complain about how other people call there car slow.

Why is it even an issue, its not a race car its your daily in most cases, so who cares if its not the fastest thing in the world. But the sadest part is alot of people seem as though there starting to believe there own hype about NA RBs, if you keep claiming there not slow show us some results a drag time slip, a lap time, a dyno graph ANYTHING.

(ive owned one and no one wants to belive there car isnt as great as you think it is, but sometimes you need to take a step back and have a look from an outsiders perspective and maybe you'll realise when push comes to shove im sorry but they just dont make the grade. You can deny that all you want but one day, possibly years from now you'll look back at this and think how wrong/close minded you were about the subject)

Erm, no, no and no.

N/A drifting isn't big and popular, super close, with the most angle (You can't get and hold angle without more power then an NA RB25 can produce), and most smoke IS popular, if it wasn't, then why is that what drifters are scored on?

Secondly, you're showing you've never driven a car that can break in a power slide at 140+KM/H other wise you wouldn't be claiming any muppet can do it, high speed + angle = alot harder to control then sliding in second.

Secondly, I grabbed the only skyline N/A drifting I could find on youtube quickly.

And if my car doesn't go on a dyno it's going to cost me money how now? I'm unsure how not using a device that I have to pay to use (If I wanted to) will cost me money by not using it...

To this guy, find me an NA RB25 that is producing 300HP... You do know that is around 225KW, IE, the region of 1Bar of boost + tuning on an RB25... IE, turbo power territory... IE, something a nicely powered car will produce... You're just helping us prove our point.

Secondly, your claim is the stupid part. You're all here saying "Our cars are not slow, but we would buy a turbo car because it's fast but we can't legally... But our cars aren't slow... But we only bought these slow cars because we have to"...

Are you lot even freaking listening to yourselves?!

You clearly haven't been to Japan... Where do you think drifting came from? It all started with n/a cars in the mountains.

I can guarantee you have never drifted an n/a car before an don't realize the fun/enjoyment that comes from having to throw a car around rather then making the car 'break into a powerslide'. And you're a fool of you think you can't get angle in an na. Just type ae86 drift on YouTube and watch the first vid. Feathering power 'which you power boys' claim to be difficult is not hard. I have drifted plenty of turbo cars. It simply makes drifting easier. Na is a challenge and makes for a better driver.

An what I mean by not using a dyno is gunna cost you money

I mean that if it doesn't see a dyno it means it doesn't see a tune which means things are going to break. Although you wouldn't have any of those problems from the start of you had an n/a.

Also I'd love to see a video of YOU drifting. Feel like you're just all talk. Probs never broken into a drift at 140kmh in your life hahaha

*Face Palm* Some days i dont know why i bother defending the NA guys when all they seem to do is complain about how other people call there car slow.

Why is it even an issue, its not a race car its your daily in most cases, so who cares if its not the fastest thing in the world. But the sadest part is alot of people seem as though there starting to believe there own hype about NA RBs, if you keep claiming there not slow show us some results a drag time slip, a lap time, a dyno graph ANYTHING.

(ive owned one and no one wants to belive there car isnt as great as you think it is, but sometimes you need to take a step back and have a look from an outsiders perspective and maybe you'll realise when push comes to shove im sorry but they just dont make the grade. You can deny that all you want but one day, possibly years from now you'll look back at this and think how wrong/close minded you were about the subject)

Hell man, even standard R33 GTSt's and R34 GTT's are fairly slow, chopped a fair few of them at WSID. Its actually not that hard to get a car to that level. Once the turbo car starts upping the boost etc its a different ball game.

To this guy, find me an NA RB25 that is producing 300HP... You do know that is around 225KW, IE, the region of 1Bar of boost + tuning on an RB25... IE, turbo power territory... IE, something a nicely powered car will produce... You're just helping us prove our point.

Secondly, your claim is the stupid part. You're all here saying "Our cars are not slow, but we would buy a turbo car because it's fast but we can't legally... But our cars aren't slow... But we only bought these slow cars because we have to"...

Are you lot even freaking listening to yourselves?!

Alright mate, i never said n/a skyline has 300hp, i was speaking in general, 300hp is more than enough for drifting. Read carefully before trying to be a smartass. I was referring to the comment you made earlier that cars should have 300rwkw to really enjoy drifiting.

And once again you still dont understand what im saying. Dude seriously im a japanese car enthusiast as is a lot of people on this forum, i dont want to buy some cliche boring holden or ford (no offence to any aussie car owners here). Ive driven a few an i must say the feel of a n/a skyline even though its slower feels way more fun to drive, has a sportier feel to it as oppose to a boaty commie. Second, skyline (for me) is probably 3rd favourite car, evo and 3000gt/gto being top 2. This is the case with all my mates as well, skyline being their preferred car. However due to the p plate laws, n/a skyline is the best we can get to satisfy our desires for atleast for the remainder of our P's, as a fellow car enthusiast you know its our pride and joy. Now do you understand? Seriously dude i have no intention of starting a keyboard war here, but your one of those people who tend to piss me off since youve never experience restrictions like this, you wont understand what it feels like, nor will 90% of people here. I mean seriously dude step in my shoes, you think its fun seeing another guy driving around with a turbo while your stuck with a n/a. And on top of that some dickhead cu** on a forum saying n/a skylines are slower than other n/a's ?

Also when i say n/a skylines arent slow, im saying you guys are exaggerating way out of proportion, cause ive raced a few holdens and fords, and not every one of them win against my n/a, i dont know if they are simply shit drivers or my n/a is 1 in a million but speaking in personal experience they arent that quick but they arent that slow either.

Apologies for the cursing, i tend to get worked up when it comes to talking about these rubbish laws.

Edited by Deza3000

Oh and btw I am not stating in any way that my car is 'fast'. What I'm saying is don't say you can't drift them or they are gutless. Especially when you have never tried!

Finally a person whose understands.

You clearly haven't been to Japan... Where do you think drifting came from? It all started with n/a cars in the mountains.

I can guarantee you have never drifted an n/a car before an don't realize the fun/enjoyment that comes from having to throw a car around rather then making the car 'break into a powerslide'. And you're a fool of you think you can't get angle in an na. Just type ae86 drift on YouTube and watch the first vid. Feathering power 'which you power boys' claim to be difficult is not hard. I have drifted plenty of turbo cars. It simply makes drifting easier. Na is a challenge and makes for a better driver.

An what I mean by not using a dyno is gunna cost you money

I mean that if it doesn't see a dyno it means it doesn't see a tune which means things are going to break. Although you wouldn't have any of those problems from the start of you had an n/a.

Also I'd love to see a video of YOU drifting. Feel like you're just all talk. Probs never broken into a drift at 140kmh in your life hahaha

I used to own a modded 86 when I was on my p's, there basically the most over rated car ever.

Yes it would drift if you gave the clutch a kick about 3 times a second or if you used momentum but you can do that in any car, n/a or turbo. This whole argument that n/a's take more skill is just rediculous. I dont know if you have been to japan but if you actually watch alot of old drift footage from when it wasnt that well know there were more 180's,32's or s13's drifting then ae86's.

Guy's dont drift n/a skylines for a reason, and its not because its 'easier' with more power.

Where's a vid of you drifting so skillfully in your n/a?

Edited by eightsixboy

I used to own a modded 86 when I was on my p's, there basically the most over rated car ever.

Yes it would drift if you gave the clutch a kick about 3 times a second or if you used momentum but you can do that in any car, n/a or turbo. This whole argument that n/a's take more skill is just rediculous. I dont know if you have been to japan but if you actually watch alot of old drift footage from when it wasnt that well know there were more 180's,32's or s13's drifting then ae86's.

Guy's dont drift n/a skylines for a reason, and its not because its 'easier' with more power.

Where's a vid of you drifting so skillfully in your n/a?

Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and watch my video I posted of me at QR?

And I have been to Japan 3 times and going back in march. I never said sils and skylines weren't preset in early drifting. But by you saying that you had trouble driving your 86 just goes to show that your level of driving skill isn't very high, therefore you go to a turbo car and say they are 'better' when you really mean its 'easier'

Alright mate, i never said n/a skyline has 300hp, i was speaking in general, 300hp is more than enough for drifting. Read carefully before trying to be a smartass. I was referring to the comment you made earlier that cars should have 300rwkw to really enjoy drifiting.

And once again you still dont understand what im saying. Dude seriously im a japanese car enthusiast as is a lot of people on this forum, i dont want to buy some cliche boring holden or ford (no offence to any aussie car owners here). Ive driven a few an i must say the feel of a n/a skyline even though its slower feels way more fun to drive, has a sportier feel to it as oppose to a boaty commie. Second, skyline (for me) is probably 3rd favourite car, evo and 3000gt/gto being top 2. This is the case with all my mates as well, skyline being their preferred car. However due to the p plate laws, n/a skyline is the best we can get to satisfy our desires for atleast for the remainder of our P's, as a fellow car enthusiast you know its our pride and joy. Now do you understand? Seriously dude i have no intention of starting a keyboard war here, but your one of those people who tend to piss me off since youve never experience restrictions like this, you wont understand what it feels like, nor will 90% of people here. I mean seriously dude step in my shoes, you think its fun seeing another guy driving around with a turbo while your stuck with a n/a. And on top of that some dickhead cu** on a forum saying n/a skylines are slower than other n/a's ?

Also when i say n/a skylines arent slow, im saying you guys are exaggerating way out of proportion, cause ive raced a few holdens and fords, and not every one of them win against my n/a, i dont know if they are simply shit drivers or my n/a is 1 in a million but speaking in personal experience they arent that quick but they arent that slow either.

Apologies for the cursing, i tend to get worked up when it comes to talking about these rubbish laws.

Dear Sir/Madam,

You claim to be mightier because other people have never had these restrictions, but in NSW these restrictions have actually been town for quite a long time. IE 7 Years. I'm not that old.

As for the NAs not being slow, actually, down the 1/4 mile they ARE slow in comparison to a late model 3.8L commodore, just because your shorter ratio gearbox gets the better of them from 0-100, when you run for a full 1/4 mile, you'd be surprised at which point the Commodore will rake you in.

The fact of the matter is, N/A skylines are NOT fast, where is my evidence you ask? Well right below, from one of your fellow N/A friends who is arguing your same battle...

Oh and btw I am not stating in any way that my car is 'fast'. What I'm saying is don't say you can't drift them or they are gutless. Especially when you have never tried!

To Mr Fryters, we never said you can't drift them, we said they're slow, I used to be able to hold a slide in my 1988 Model Nissan Navara, and hell, that thing made a whopping 80KW when it was brand new, once the odometer had been around the clock a few times it wasn't that powerful any more, yet it'd still hold the tail out. Funny fact, I also used to use lift off oversteer in a Jazz to slide it around corners faster, and shit, it's not even RWD yet alone fast!

You clearly haven't been to Japan... Where do you think drifting came from? It all started with n/a cars in the mountains.

I can guarantee you have never drifted an n/a car before an don't realize the fun/enjoyment that comes from having to throw a car around rather then making the car 'break into a powerslide'. And you're a fool of you think you can't get angle in an na. Just type ae86 drift on YouTube and watch the first vid. Feathering power 'which you power boys' claim to be difficult is not hard. I have drifted plenty of turbo cars. It simply makes drifting easier. Na is a challenge and makes for a better driver.

An what I mean by not using a dyno is gunna cost you money

I mean that if it doesn't see a dyno it means it doesn't see a tune which means things are going to break. Although you wouldn't have any of those problems from the start of you had an n/a.

Also I'd love to see a video of YOU drifting. Feel like you're just all talk. Probs never broken into a drift at 140kmh in your life hahaha

Please see above, you're not the only person who's driven N/A cars before.

Before I bought my R33 I had a VR 3.8L commo, while I had my R33 off the road for an RB30DET build, I had a VN Commo, Before I had the VR I had an NA 2.4L Navara, after the RB30DET build I had a Jazz as my primary car for quite a while. I can vouch for what is, and what isn't fast, hell, I've seen a turbo diesel Ford Territory out at a texi drifting, and that isn't fast!

As for me not using a dyno costing me money, you're obviously showing your inexperience here, dyno tuning will get you in the ball park, then for proper track tuning, you tune them on the track. I used to own my own Wideband gear and have all the gear for tuning timing as a part of my ECUs. I got rid of my wideband gear because I want a different wideband for doing my own tuning. Never had an issue from a tune point of view with engines. I have had issues of spinning bearings from engines leaving no oil in the sump, but most guys who track their RBs hard on standard sumps also have these issues. (Unless you live in Victoria)

Also, N/A is not a challenge, you throw the car in as hard as you can, pin the throttle as hard as you can, and as long as you haven't entered too aggressively the car will straighten itself up not too much further out of the corner. Need to change direction? Quick flick of the throttle and an NA changes direction VERY quickly.

You will also notice alot of N/A drifters use the handbrake to initiate a drift, whereas the guys with power will use a weight transfer and then over power the rear tyres and then have to modulate how much angle they have with steering + throttle. Yes you can drift them, Shit, if you remember back when Oran Park used to have truck racing, (Are you old enough to remember back then?) you will remember watching them be able to drift the trucks as well. I can also remember watching an old EH Inline 6 drift lap after lap last turn at Oran Park, and a Mitsubishi Mirage could out accelerate it (IE, IT WASN'T FAST YET IT STILL DRIFTED!!!)

Drifting may be possible, this thread wasn't about that. You kids need to wake up to yourselves (Although, you seem to have already as half of you have admitted they're not fast cars but are still arguing for some point) and realise that the N/A Skylines are NOT a fast car.

Performance of a modern 4cyl Toyota Camry.

So it is comparable to majority of "mainstream" cars out there.

My pick would be the R34 because the NEO VVT actually helps with the lowdown torque.

Advantage is that a Skyline has many tasteful aftermarket mods, such as suspension, brakes, styling mods etc.

An n/a skyline can perform great in the twisties, aslong as you have the right mods and the right driving experience (actually know how to drive it fast around corners).

- Buy the lightest rims and the stickiest tires you can afford. Go the R34 GTR rims with some nice rubber.

- Upgrade brakes to GTt or GTR items, or other aftermarket items.

- Upgrade the suspension

- LSD

- Trans cooler, if you have an auto

- High flow panel filter

- High flow cat

- Don't put in a massive stereo system. A nice double DIN headunit and quality speakers, is all you will need.

^ I don't know why people are still arguing. LOL.

- n/a skylines are "slow" in a straight line in comparison to higher performance cars - they are average ie. on par with a modern 4cyl camry/mazda 6 - modern aussie 6 cylinder cars ie. Aurion/falcon/commodore will eat you alive.

- you have to remember an RB25DE is still a 2.5L naturally aspirated engine....

- what's with P platers wanting to go faster on public roads anyways? Urban areas are typically 40~80km/h zones and the fastest you are legally allowed to travel on majoriy of freeways/highways throughout Australia is 100~110km/h.

- In the state of Victoria, it doesn't matter if you gun a crappy 1.3 Yaris or an R35 GTR at the traffic lights - You will still get caught for hooning by the police.

- More power low down IS always better, ie. turbo/supercharged or a bigger capacity engine. But if you can keep up with normal traffic flow, that is good enough.

- If you really want to drive your car hard regardless of what it is, save it for the track. Screw risking your own life, especially other people's lives on the public roads.

- I'd rather a car that can handle and brake well when the roads get twisty - along with great driver skills - while keeping it legal. Lots of drivers with awesome cars ie. M3, RS4 etc. are sh*t drivers (too much money, not enough skills) - on the straights they will pretty much demolish anything, but once it gets twisty they struggle to keep up/pull away, even at street legal speeds.

The point I'm trying to make is - laws now are so strict it almost doesn't matter what you drive, a 1000hp car will not get you to your destination any faster than a cheap econobox. We are still governed by speed limits and traffic lights. :P

BTW - I've been off my Ps for many years, I still own the same n/a R34 - nothing stopping me from getting an awesome GTt or something with heaps more grunt - then I realised - I'm only driving within legal limits and I've lost the itch to do traffic light GPs. The only thing i crave for now is to go legally quick around the twisty roads.

A powerful car is awesome (i've driven many in my time) - just love the effortless pulling power - but one you hit that speed limit - fun ends.

Trust me when I say this, a slooooooooooow car is an IS200 (my daily) - but that's a different story. lol.

Dear Sir/Madam,

You claim to be mightier because other people have never had these restrictions, but in NSW these restrictions have actually been town for quite a long time. IE 7 Years. I'm not that old.

As for the NAs not being slow, actually, down the 1/4 mile they ARE slow in comparison to a late model 3.8L commodore, just because your shorter ratio gearbox gets the better of them from 0-100, when you run for a full 1/4 mile, you'd be surprised at which point the Commodore will rake you in.

The fact of the matter is, N/A skylines are NOT fast, where is my evidence you ask? Well right below, from one of your fellow N/A friends who is arguing your same battle...

Ive already admitted and stated that a few comments before that a late model commie or falcon beats my skyline. Also stated before Vn commodore beats my skyline as well. 1/4mile becomes an all KW race so obviously a commie or falcon will win. BA and VZ onwards, my car does get "raked". But if you actually read my other posts i made a comment saying the N/A skyline is pretty quick in its time. in 1996 - 1999, it did pretty well. So for a car of its age its not that bad, go back a few pages you'll see my comment there. However 0-100 times is all we need on public roads, as stated above, its not like we're going to be going past 80 anyway so its perfect for a p plater anyway. Highlu unlikely youre going to be taking an n/a at the track.

Also I wasnt claiming to be mightier, i just wanted to make people understand why we drive N/a's. I really hate these restrictions with a passion.

Edit: btw im a guy =='

Edited by Deza3000

Dear Sir/Madam,

You claim to be mightier because other people have never had these restrictions, but in NSW these restrictions have actually been town for quite a long time. IE 7 Years. I'm not that old.

As for the NAs not being slow, actually, down the 1/4 mile they ARE slow in comparison to a late model 3.8L commodore, just because your shorter ratio gearbox gets the better of them from 0-100, when you run for a full 1/4 mile, you'd be surprised at which point the Commodore will rake you in.

The fact of the matter is, N/A skylines are NOT fast, where is my evidence you ask? Well right below, from one of your fellow N/A friends who is arguing your same battle...

To Mr Fryters, we never said you can't drift them, we said they're slow, I used to be able to hold a slide in my 1988 Model Nissan Navara, and hell, that thing made a whopping 80KW when it was brand new, once the odometer had been around the clock a few times it wasn't that powerful any more, yet it'd still hold the tail out. Funny fact, I also used to use lift off oversteer in a Jazz to slide it around corners faster, and shit, it's not even RWD yet alone fast!

Please see above, you're not the only person who's driven N/A cars before.

Before I bought my R33 I had a VR 3.8L commo, while I had my R33 off the road for an RB30DET build, I had a VN Commo, Before I had the VR I had an NA 2.4L Navara, after the RB30DET build I had a Jazz as my primary car for quite a while. I can vouch for what is, and what isn't fast, hell, I've seen a turbo diesel Ford Territory out at a texi drifting, and that isn't fast!

As for me not using a dyno costing me money, you're obviously showing your inexperience here, dyno tuning will get you in the ball park, then for proper track tuning, you tune them on the track. I used to own my own Wideband gear and have all the gear for tuning timing as a part of my ECUs. I got rid of my wideband gear because I want a different wideband for doing my own tuning. Never had an issue from a tune point of view with engines. I have had issues of spinning bearings from engines leaving no oil in the sump, but most guys who track their RBs hard on standard sumps also have these issues. (Unless you live in Victoria)

Also, N/A is not a challenge, you throw the car in as hard as you can, pin the throttle as hard as you can, and as long as you haven't entered too aggressively the car will straighten itself up not too much further out of the corner. Need to change direction? Quick flick of the throttle and an NA changes direction VERY quickly.

You will also notice alot of N/A drifters use the handbrake to initiate a drift, whereas the guys with power will use a weight transfer and then over power the rear tyres and then have to modulate how much angle they have with steering + throttle. Yes you can drift them, Shit, if you remember back when Oran Park used to have truck racing, (Are you old enough to remember back then?) you will remember watching them be able to drift the trucks as well. I can also remember watching an old EH Inline 6 drift lap after lap last turn at Oran Park, and a Mitsubishi Mirage could out accelerate it (IE, IT WASN'T FAST YET IT STILL DRIFTED!!!)

Drifting may be possible, this thread wasn't about that. You kids need to wake up to yourselves (Although, you seem to have already as half of you have admitted they're not fast cars but are still arguing for some point) and realise that the N/A Skylines are NOT a fast car.

Have you ever watched d1? Tell me they don't use their handbrake? and watch my video, I do weight transfers (scandos) on entries as well and I have 99kw?

Just because you have 10,000+ posts on a forum doesn't mean you know more then everyone man.

I'm still waiting to see your video of you drifting. I don't know you, but you come across as a guy who thinks he knows a whole lot and is some kind of a guru because of his post count. I don't see how you can give advice on drifting when I would put money on that me at the age of 19 can probs link a track better then you can in my standard 32.

Have you ever watched d1? Tell me they don't use their handbrake? and watch my video, I do weight transfers (scandos) on entries as well and I have 99kw?

Just because you have 10,000+ posts on a forum doesn't mean you know more then everyone man.

I'm still waiting to see your video of you drifting. I don't know you, but you come across as a guy who thinks he knows a whole lot and is some kind of a guru because of his post count. I don't see how you can give advice on drifting when I would put money on that me at the age of 19 can probs link a track better then you can in my standard 32.

Dopey, I don't drift, figure it out and you'll do better.

Circuit and hill climb here.

And we're not talking pro stuff, how many N/As are the D1 guys drifting?

You do also know youre the one arguing about drifting in a thread about how fast a car is right? No one asked "Can an NA drift" We all know they can drift, you can drift a KE70 if you want to. Does that make it fast? f**k NO!

the last few pages of this thread bring the lulz. people compraing drifting a NA skyline to D1 in japan (where they all drift with cars making about 3 to 4 times what a NA skyline does). people using the ae86 as the posterboy for NA drifting, despite the fact that the majority of them have had engine swaps done. also despite the fact that most of the ae86 do very poorly at drifting because they handle like crap, but are common because they are/were a cheap rwd car made popular by a CARTOON!!!

the last few pages of this thread bring the lulz. people compraing drifting a NA skyline to D1 in japan (where they all drift with cars making about 3 to 4 times what a NA skyline does). people using the ae86 as the posterboy for NA drifting, despite the fact that the majority of them have had engine swaps done. also despite the fact that most of the ae86 do very poorly at drifting because they handle like crap, but are common because they are/were a cheap rwd car made popular by a CARTOON!!!

*High Five* Marc gets it!

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    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
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