Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone now someone who is missing a Black 180sx reg S843AVM....

It is parked outside my place and looks like it has been tampered with and dumped...

SAPOL said it has not been reported stolen but from everything I can see it looks like it has been.

need a lil help guys, was driving the gtr just cruising at 60 changed gears nice n slow n I felt a funny twitch in the clutch pedal and then next time I pushed the clutch is was a lot heavier all of sudden.

pulled over check the fluid levels all looks ok, then I noticed when I got back in it every time I pushed the clutch it was making a noise like gas escaping. This was in the car not under the bonnet.

so I hear this is possibly a vacuum leak in the booster? anyone got any other ideas?

anyways I drove it home and it felt fine aside from the weird noise and being heavier clutch than normal, went into gear fine no crunch.

What im wondering is, is this doing any damage to the clutch? I have the nismo coppermix twinplate so I don’t wanna stuff it up but its normally light as a feather and id actually prefer a heavier clutch pedal.

o and this car is starting to p me off

finally got it into a workshop and there tellling me its the thrust bearing is worn out and itll cost 550 in labour to rip the gbox out to replace it. they are suggesting i wait till the clutch is worn to replace it.

ive got no idea what the thurstbearing is, will it damage the clutch or make it wear out faster? it seems to feel alright other than the noise at the moment.

anyone know how much it is to rebuild a nismo twin plate anyways :P

Edited by Inline 6

I'd just leave it for the moment but $550 seems a bit too pricey for that type of work, it's a little brass "ring" worth about $3 from Nissan.

To rebuild a Nismo twin plate is about $900ish from NPC

Luke i think your thinking of the spigot bearing that sits in the end of the crank and the end of the input shaft runs inside it.

The thrust bearing is on the bearing that rides on you input shaft and it what pushes (or in the case of a pull type clutch, pull) the "fingers" on the clutch when you press your pedal.

Regardless both parts are worth bugger all but it is a gearbox out job so would there's a fair bit of labour involved.

I would take the mechanics recomendation and wait until your clutch is stuffed and do them together becasue the labour cost will be the same.

It won't damage anything but if you end up with a scretching noise when you press the pedal then the bearing has colapsed and you will then need to change it.

Having said that the symptoms that you have described don't sound like thrust bearing to me as that would have no effect on pedal feel.

Your thoughts about the clutch booster sound more on the money to me. The other thing it could be is a broken pivot point for your clutch leaver. I have had the same thing happen to my car and after month of not figuring out what it was eventualy (on an SAU cruise) i put my foot and the pedal and the clutch didn't engage which led an emergency pit stop at windies lookout. Ended up driving the car through the hills back to Campbelltown with no clutch which was a lesson in matching revs on gear change.

Edited by D_Stirls

if its not a daily driver ya could tear it apart, find the problem, fix/replace the part and whack it back together yourself.

it would be an educational experiance and you could get to know your car a little more in doing so, it would make for a fun and intresting weekend.

FYI my brother-in-law David (Red back on SAU) is running his R33GTR (with R34GTR Nur engine in it) at the Bathurst Motorsport Festival this weekend. FB group below if anyone want to check out pics/join.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/586460034705368/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...