Jump to content
SAU Community

Time Attack 180Sx Pro Class


Nur33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

I thought I would share another build with you, as i have done many in the past. As the title states I am building a dedicated time attack car (finally) although it's not a GTR platform, it is still a Nissan chassis ;). Myself and fellow SAU member Spenda are both building Pro Class time attack cars all the way up here in Mackay North QLD where the nearest track is QR which is a 1000km away. So we won't get a whole lot of testing opportunities or professional help so we are kind of winging it. So positive feed back would be greatly appreciated, negative not so much will make me :verymad:.

At this stage i have my sights set on WTAC 2014 but this build could blow out til 2015 and then some. I am slowly stating to collect some parts, and sort out what I need and what i don't need. The chassis is fully striped at the moment ready for the Dry Ice and hammer treatment to the sound deadening. Then is will be ready for the welding to begin on Rollcage and Seam welding and other chassis modifications.

As with any car you need some inspiration, with my R32 I used the Carbon Garage Saurus R32 GTR. The 180sx my inspiration will be the Scorch Racing S15/ MCA S13, fastest Silvia's ever made hoping one day i can join them.

My goals for the car are 700rwhp and try my best to get to 1000kg weight.

Will post shopping list and progress pictures soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shopping List:

Engine - SR20VET

- BC 2.2L Stroker Kit

- Darton Sleeves

- Brand New P12 Vet Head

- Kelford Cams

- Supertech Valvetrain

- ARP Studs

- Hypertune Plenum Kit 90mm Throttle Body

- Mazworx V-Band Steam Pipe Exhaust Manifold

- Tial MVR 45mm Wastegate Watercooled

- Tial 50mm Bov

- Mishimoto Custom V-Mount Intercooler

- Custom Alloy Radiator

- Turbosmart 3000 FPR

- 2000cc ID Injectors

- Peterson 4 Stage Dry Sump Pump

- Vipec V88 Ecu

- Custom 3" Titanium Exhaust

- Etc you get the picture.

Transmission

- Holinger RD6 Sequential Box

- NPC Clutch

- Chromoly 1 piece Tail Shaft

- Tomei Trax 2 way Diff.

Wheels and Brakes

- Work S1R F18x9.5 R18x11.5

- Toyo R888 Semi Slicks F265's R315's

- Nascar GTR Brembo Brake Calipers all round.

- PFC 2 Piece Rotors F330x32mm R300x24mm

- Hawk or Brembo Pads

- Tilton Pedal Box

Exterior

- URAS GT Bodykit

- Custom Bonnet

- Custom Carbon Front Splitter

- Custom Carbon GT Wing

- Custom Rear Diffuser

- SRB 70mm Wide Fenders

- SRB Carbon Roof

- SRB Carbon Hatch

Parts are subject to change but at this stage is what i want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suspension

- MCA Red Series Coilovers

- GK Tech Adjustable Arms

- GK Tech Front and Rear Billet Knuckles

- GK Tech Front and Rear Lower Control Arms

- Ikeya Formula Tie Rods

- Ikeya Formula Tie Rod Ends

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My collection of parts slowly gathers in the shed.

WORK S1R's Front 18 x 9.5 + 12mm Rear 18 x 11.5 -8mm

134787_10151197937083485_1578439679_o.jpg466429_10151197937823485_337113413_o.jpg

ATI Harmonic Balancer

217651_10151099661413485_798838973_n.jpg

Mazworx Manifold with Tial MVR 45mm Wastegate.

53100_10151228594318485_1966380355_o.jpg

Peterson 4 Stage Dry Sump Pump

399206_10151296646548485_1885629021_n.jpg

Nascar Spec Brembo Brake Calipers

736246_10151330099058485_512840545_o.jpg

Mishimoto V-Mount Setup

522570_10151282536028485_1043067632_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would change the wheels to something lighter. In my experience You don't need big brakes unless you are racing and time attack is all about short one or two lap dashes. Some good quality pads and rotors and upgraded to something like brembos is more then enough and spend money elsewhere like on an extra set of soft tyres.

If its a pro car then talk to murry about going his proflex set up rather then the reds, motor wise I would actualy keep everything relatively mild and spend some coin on getting down to qld raceway as you could spend thousands on stuff that could see you go backwards without testing it on the track. Seat time is invaluable,

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shopping List:

Engine - SR20VET

- BC 2.2L Stroker Kit

- Darton Sleeves

- Brand New P12 Vet Head

- Kelford Cams

- Supertech Valvetrain

- ARP Studs

- Hypertune Plenum Kit 90mm Throttle Body

- Mazworx V-Band Steam Pipe Exhaust Manifold

- Tial MVR 45mm Wastegate Watercooled

- Tial 50mm Bov

- Mishimoto Custom V-Mount Intercooler

- Custom Alloy Radiator

- Turbosmart 3000 FPR

- 2000cc ID Injectors

- Peterson 4 Stage Dry Sump Pump

- Vipec V88 Ecu

- Custom 3" Titanium Exhaust

- Etc you get the picture.

Transmission

- Holinger RD6 Sequential Box

- NPC Clutch

- Chromoly 1 piece Tail Shaft

- Tomei Trax 2 way Diff.

Wheels and Brakes

- Work S1R F18x9.5 R18x11.5

- Toyo R888 Semi Slicks F265's R315's

- Nascar GTR Brembo Brake Calipers all round.

- PFC 2 Piece Rotors F330x32mm R300x24mm

- Hawk or Brembo Pads

- Tilton Pedal Box

Exterior

- URAS GT Bodykit

- Custom Bonnet

- Custom Carbon Front Splitter

- Custom Carbon GT Wing

- Custom Rear Diffuser

- SRB 70mm Wide Fenders

- SRB Carbon Roof

- SRB Carbon Hatch

Parts are subject to change but at this stage is what i want.

this makes posting a link to your old thread kind of pointless really. :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Everyone

I thought I would share another build with you, as i have done many in the past. As the title states I am building a dedicated time attack car (finally) although it's not a GTR platform, it is still a Nissan chassis ;). Myself and fellow SAU member Spenda are both building Pro Class time attack cars all the way up here in Mackay North QLD where the nearest track is QR which is a 1000km away. So we won't get a whole lot of testing opportunities or professional help so we are kind of winging it. So positive feed back would be greatly appreciated, negative not so much will make me :verymad:.

At this stage i have my sights set on WTAC 2014 but this build could blow out til 2015 and then some. I am slowly stating to collect some parts, and sort out what I need and what i don't need. The chassis is fully striped at the moment ready for the Dry Ice and hammer treatment to the sound deadening. Then is will be ready for the welding to begin on Rollcage and Seam welding and other chassis modifications.

As with any car you need some inspiration, with my R32 I used the Carbon Garage Saurus R32 GTR. The 180sx my inspiration will be the Scorch Racing S15/ MCA S13, fastest Silvia's ever made hoping one day i can join them.

My goals for the car are 700rwhp and try my best to get to 1000kg weight.

Will post shopping list and progress pictures soon.

about your seam welding, how do you plan to get around all the impurities from the silicon when you weld it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would change the wheels to something lighter. In my experience You don't need big brakes unless you are racing and time attack is all about short one or two lap dashes. Some good quality pads and rotors and upgraded to something like brembos is more then enough and spend money elsewhere like on an extra set of soft tyres.

If its a pro car then talk to murry about going his proflex set up rather then the reds, motor wise I would actualy keep everything relatively mild and spend some coin on getting down to qld raceway as you could spend thousands on stuff that could see you go backwards without testing it on the track. Seat time is invaluable,

Cheers for your valuable input :) , i do understand that how important and valuable seat time is but i live a very long ways from a track so i want to make the most of that time when i'm there which means i can't have a un-reliable half built engine that could give me drama's everytime i go out. But in saying that this engine with have every alarm bell and whistle like my RB in the drag car, makes it a lot easier to know when something is going wrong.

The brakes are off a Nascar so the are made for very small rims 15-16" rims. The front calipers can only take a 330x35mm Rotor Max and the Rear Caliper can only take a 300x24mm Max. So i will be running the similar size brake package as stock set of brembo's off a R33/R34 GTR. This just means i will have a shit load more clamping pressure due to the piston sizing and my pads are cheap as chips with a more choices in pad compounds.

I have also spoken to Josh at MCA via email and he says his Red series coilover is very capable of the task, he can re-valve it and setup spring rates once i can give him more specs on my car. $7.5K for the gold series is a lot to ask at the moment considering i have an engine and gearbox still to buy.

I have been doing a heap of research on parts and setup, from what i can gather the majority of this car will be running Aussie built parts as we built the best quality gear in the world. Will have to do a shit load of overtime at work to fund this beast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this makes posting a link to your old thread kind of pointless really. :laugh:

Yeah that's why i started a new thread. :yes:

about your seam welding, how do you plan to get around all the impurities from the silicon when you weld it?

This chassis is fairly old there is bugger all silicon left on it, just have to clean all the areas good will a fire brush flapper wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Decent shocks were the best thing I bought for my car. The difference is night and day as far as consistency and tuneability with a good remote canister shock compated to a good normal shock. IMO you would be better with less engine and more shock/tire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds exciting.

Why not just go 295 and 315 tyres from the get go. Will require tubbing of the front end though which I assume you want to avoid?

Also, Mazworx exhaust manifold? Any reason why that one? Go Australian, Kelway, 6Boost or even Full Race if wanting something really exotic looking!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just coming from experience that you try to keep the motor power levels at a reasonable level and if you can, you might even initially keep the motor stock. Once you start to start pulling them apart you start to have more issues.

A 250rwkw light weight silvia with fantastic suspension and chassis set up will be a lot quicker then most think and you will be able to keep going around and around all day everyday and also pass most other cars on the track.

Even more important considering the distance you have to travel as no doubt you will try and get a couple of days in at a time, you can do local hill climb events etc if you have them though.

Edited by boxheadmr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds exciting. Why not just go 295 and 315 tyres from the get go. Will require tubbing of the front end though which I assume you want to avoid? Also, Mazworx exhaust manifold? Any reason why that one? Go Australian, Kelway, 6Boost or even Full Race if wanting something really exotic looking!

Tyre size has not been decided yet maybe be getting wider rims, as for the manifold I bought it cause it was well priced and the quality is pretty good, solid looking piece of kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...