Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Not sure if this has been covered before or not properly (did search), I basically just want to know if stock 33 gtst brakes with decent pads/rotors/lines are good enough for light track days?

I don't want to upgrade to Brembo's or d2's/ksports if its not really required, Im not going to be diong alot of track work, maybe 2-3 track days a year at winton plus deca's.

I would love to upgrade rotors only to GTR and use the stock calipers but know one makes the adaptors besides uas ($350+).

Let me know what you guys think before I start buying rotors and pads.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417146-potential-of-stock-33-gtst-brakes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for light track days they are fine...Ive been punting around a few track days with 300kws still on the factory fitted discs from 93. With just some braided lines, better brake fluid and pads.If you can get some ducting in to help cool them would be good and aim for a softer compound pad that wont destroy your rotors and they will last longer than you think..

my times aren't killer but they are respectable and I can fly down the straights which is still awesome fun..just have to brake a bit earlier than the guys with good brakes ;)

A cheap upgrade like some RDA slotted rotors and some new pads will help a fair bit for the price.

It's about all I have and my brakes feel really good. Obviously not going to be stopping like a Formula 1 car, but still pretty damn good :)

They are absolutely fine. I ran stock brakes on my 33 gtst for about 3 years of track days. The trick is to run good tyres, plus I didn't have a lot of power. And a dot5 fluid like motul rbf600.

On the other hand, the d2 kit is very cheap and performs very well....keeping in mind it comes with pads, rotors and braided lines, and the rotors are 2 piece so cheaper to replace when that does come up

They are absolutely fine. I ran stock brakes on my 33 gtst for about 3 years of track days. The trick is to run good tyres, plus I didn't have a lot of power. And a dot5 fluid like motul rbf600.

On the other hand, the d2 kit is very cheap and performs very well....keeping in mind it comes with pads, rotors and braided lines, and the rotors are 2 piece so cheaper to replace when that does come up

I was amazed how much difference putting on a well used set of 03Gs dunlops made to my stopping...:yes: even when cold they just dig in...

I think some simple air guides would help quite a lot. Coupled with a cross-over pad like DS2500 or A1RM pads. Next step would be HC+ pads, which can be driven on the street (weekend car).

GKTech have the R33 adapters to 324mm back on the drawing board. ;)

With decent tyres you won't have to wipe off so much speed for corner entry. The brakes are probably good enough for most Aussie tracks for R33 up to 250-260rwkw, with appropriate pads.

Edited by simpletool

If your std rotors are fine thickness wise then dont upgrade them. The std rotors are better than most aftermarket rotors you will throw on so dont waste your money. IF they are undersized then replace them with whatever generic rotor you can get cheaply.

THE BIGGEST change you will do to your brakes is the pad you run. Do you have ABS and do you like realy bitey pads or do you like needing a lot of pedal effort? Something up spec like Endless CCX will go a long way to giving you braking feel and bight you didnt think possible with std brakes, which when combined with good fluid makes a big difference.

If your lines are in good nic dont bother with braided lines as they are an expense you can live without. f youc an do all the labour yourself and get good braided lines cheaply then throw them on...but dont spend $500 on them through a workshop as whilst they are a good thing...that money is better spent elsewhere on the car...ie tyres

Thanks for the replies.

My car has ABS which while good for the street is prob not the best for the track, or so I've heard.

I need to measure my rotors, hopefully they can take machine and just replace the pads and lines, I would really like to use the 324mm rotors, just sucks theres no brackets for them yet to make it worth the $$$.

Has anyone heard of TRW pads? I saw a set on ebay, there only $130 or so and the guy said there almost as good as red stuff''s for light track work just half the price.

Could get 32mm rotors to fit, but then may as well just buy a big brake kit anyway

No, that's not the problem. The problem is the length of the caliper legs is different. If you put R33 calieprs onto the dogbones intended for R32/S15 calipers, then you need something like 340mm rotors.

Thanks for the replies.

My car has ABS which while good for the street is prob not the best for the track, or so I've heard.

I need to measure my rotors, hopefully they can take machine and just replace the pads and lines, I would really like to use the 324mm rotors, just sucks theres no brackets for them yet to make it worth the $$$.

Has anyone heard of TRW pads? I saw a set on ebay, there only $130 or so and the guy said there almost as good as red stuff''s for light track work just half the price.

intima pads are awesome for the money, actually prefer them over most of the others

No, that's not the problem. The problem is the length of the caliper legs is different. If you put R33 calieprs onto the dogbones intended for R32/S15 calipers, then you need something like 340mm rotors.

Even better, bigger rotors :yes:

just buy direct from gktech online?

Yeah I just got them online, good service too answered all my questions

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-braided-brake-lines-front-rear-set-intro-price.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...