Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol AVOID Nismo. This is the guy who tried to convince me that I needed to replace the whole front driveshaft when I just needed a CV boot done - Even after I told him he was an idiot.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol AVOID Nismo. This is the guy who tried to convince me that I needed to replace the whole front driveshaft when I just needed a CV boot done - Even after I told him he was an idiot.

probably because the numb nut just looked at getting the boot from Nissan. Nissan wont sell you just the boot, they try sell you a whole drive shaft for like 700 bucks haha

Can someone lead me in the direction of places I can order parts for my 32 GTR in Australia please ? Hi octane racing and jus jap seem good but are their any other places that people have had good service and Respect !!!

Honestly mate, id take the advice of one of the original posts

Order it from RHD Japan, usually takes a couple of weeks but its a very simple process

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan/r32-skyline-gt-r

Start here, it will save you at least 10-15% on Just Jap and alike

Thanks joey

Went to the rhd Japan website before and everything is in yen

Do they have a currency converter

There's a currency converter on their page, just under the price where it says 'currency' click and scroll down.

Highly recommended, used them heaps of times.

Lolz, siff take your car to a place in thomastown.

Luckily i'm not a big enough dick head to take it there, unlike my mate who took his car when it was on sunshine ave and got rorted haha (no offence to the op). I even told him the place was dodgy before i had even heard any stories about it, place just doesn't look right. I laugh every time i see a car with the nismo sticker on the back now

Edited by topher_

Also - side point... I wouldn't be trusting drifters for the correct idea on what things cost.

Reason I say this as over the last 1-2 years there have been a lot of backyard-er type places open up. They don't have proper business insurance, security systems and other types of overheads which allow for greatly reduced costs. So when something bad does happen (like they get robbed, which seems to be ocurring a lot lately), you as a customer gets the ripe old shaft on the other end.

Just something to think about.

(The above does not mean in any way i support that quote, heaps of stuff on there is just plain ripping off of a customer - said person was stupid to let work happen without an quote anyway).

Having worked in the automotive industry, I know all too well the business side of things. Customers often want you to source parts for them, with zero margin on them - i.e. what they would pay for them if they were to take the time to research, track them down and purchase. Then there's the labour side of things, where customer believes you should be charging no more per hour for labour than what they earn per hour...that's a classic.

We also live in the era of customers supplying their own parts, but also wanting workshops to accept liability for these parts when things go wrong. So the only thing a mechanic can make money from, is fhe labour...which means a rushed job, because a faster job is more profit. And dodgy mechs are happy to work for cheaper than good. Many reasons I'm glad not to work in the industry anymore.

Well that is why I go to racepace and chequered tuning for my complete build up. Too many risks these days especially if your not familiar on pricing and quality. I supplied all my parts from perfect run/RHD japan/greenline.

Yen is looking tasty at the moment

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...