Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Finally got my car approx 2 weeks ago and already popping with questions! Got my car back from the shop today (major service) and apparently the car is only going three quarters as fast as it should be! I tried to research the problem but have no flippin' idea what I'm looking for!

Apparently when you put the foot down the turbo.. cuts in and out? like it's there, then not there, then there again. I didn't notice this until I put my foot down to understand what the mechanic was on about. He said it may be electrical(went into jargon I couldn't understand lol)? I was hoping for some input/thoughts to give the mechanic the next time I see him as they charge lots by the hour lol

Only changes done (related to problem) is the boost restricter being removed. so instead of 7psi, it's 14psi. But I don't see the boost gauge use all 14 pounds. Apparently this isn't the problem, I don't know. Any ideas would be fantastic!

Cheers in advance guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422021-r33-gtr-turbo-cutting-out/
Share on other sites

Does it have a k & n filter that use oil, if over oiled it will suck through the filter onto the maf and affect your reading, specially on boost. Check your coil packs for cracks and for fouled plugs. sense you just got it you should hit up the dyno or road test and check your AFR just for piece of mind. List any mods as this will help us help u

Did they change your spark plugs on the major service? My guess is its missing and if they installed new plugs they might just need to be regapped. Is this happening all the way through the rev range or just on boost when applying WOT?

got stock ecu? try resetting it

also search for dry solder on afm, its not difficult to check

Yeah it is stock. I'll look into it thanks!

Did they change your spark plugs on the major service? My guess is its missing and if they installed new plugs they might just need to be regapped. Is this happening all the way through the rev range or just on boost when applying WOT?

Yeah plugs were changed during the service. This "misfiring", "cutting" is only happening when I put my foot down.

google missfire and see if a more professional description matches with what your experiencing

I've had a squizz through and watched a few vids but they sound more serious than what mine is, I have no leaks, car idles no problem.

As a free bump! my GTS-T is doing the same thing. Once you get over 7psi, even 8psi! it feels like its hitting a rev limiter/ tapping the accelerator on and off. yet if i leave the car on 7psi i can flog the crap outta her and she's happy.

Op. Running nore boost will cause you to run out of spark aka missfiring. Its got shitall to do with idle unless a coil pack dies.

Second dude. Youre either hitting too much boost which the ecu is cutting you off or you also are running out of spark.

Change spark gaps up boost.

Yeah had some ideas, apparently my car is tuned to handle unleaded 95 when I've been putting in premium 98. Doubt that'll have anything to do with it. Checked the air flow sensors and they seem fine. Still got the cutting in and out happening though. Will check out other probs tomorrow!

yeah I bought some split fire coilpacks. hope they come in before the easter break. would like to hit more than 0.7(unsure on conversion to psi. its reading I get) bar before my car throws a hissifit. my camry runs better at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...