Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

How does every else with >200rwkw cars go for traction?? I have a daily driver R33 gts-t with 210rwkw and find it very difficult to get traction on the street. In first and second if I put the foot down, I get wheel spin. I could do a quicker quarter with a stock car at the moment.

Current mods that could be causing this:

-Twin plate clutch

-Hankook Tyres (cheaper)

-Tein coilovers

-265/35-18 tyres

I have a few theories:

- obviously softer (read: more expensive) tyres would help

- softer rear suspension may help????

- Would a narrower tyre (255/40-18) help? ie. greater weight per square inch of rubber on the road

I'm assuming that I'm not the only one with this problem and want to sort it out before I upgrade the turbo. No good having 260kw if you can only use it on the dyno. As it's a daily driver I'm not looking at spending too much on the tyres. Hoping to keep it under $500 per tyre and with relatively ok life.

Cheers,

Bleck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42279-traction-probs-with-rwd-cars/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd go for the rear suspension being too hard theory. I believe I have the same problem as I'm running Kei Office coilovers, and there is bugger all traction 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I'm looking at getting a set of softer springs made up for the rear though as many people have mentioned before that most Japanese coilovers spring rates are about twice what they really should be for the roads in Australia and New Zealand.

well mine doewsnt have anywhere near 210kw but i noticed that with the old tyres(bald) it was very silly trying to get traction on the street coz they just spuin everywhere, i was in the same boat 1st 2nd was just spinning, however i went and got osme new tyres and they were 245/40/17's bridgestone Grid II i have to say these are better than the 255 tyres that i had on it previously, much better traction, 1st only spins a little with 2nd on spinning on gear change then she al go fromthere. maybe try different tyres, i got tein adjustables on mine and i have put em lowish, i still ran 13.5 with my shitter dude so i reckon u should be able to do at least that. twin plate may be a back foot step, although nice and strong, i think the ability to slip them isnt as good as your average organic shit one like mine

try putting in more positive camber so that when the rear of the car squats under hard acceleration there is more tire contact on the road then now with the standard settings..

i am not sure what the camber setting are on a lowered 33 or standard height car but when they get lowered the rear camber will go higher into the negative setting then there should be..

even a 1/2 to 3/4 positive camber change will not effect tire wear..anything above 1 degree will ..

or just go to a solid rear end then all your problems will be solved.. hehe go the 31's

i had the exact same problem when i had my stockies on and i only got 172rwkw since i purchased my rims (19x8) with 265/30 tyres on rear thats stopped lol their freakin heavy bastards, but yer with stockies like mentioned 1st gear a waste and 2nd gear still spinnin.

cheers...ben.

Ive got 166rwkw and i spin my dunlop 255/40r17 fm901s like they were spacesavers

They are mega old tho,

Getting Falken RT215 255/40R17 SemiSlicks next so i cant wait to see what happens

-Ive got full whiteline handling kit, strut brace and tein suspension/springs

Ive got 0 neg camber on the rear, pineapples set for traction, and a set of brand new bilsteins with lowered pedders springs.

TRACTION ISSUES. I also/STILL get axle tramp

I might go decent 255/40 instead of 265/35, more sidewall more traction?

what decent semi comp tyres come in 18" that arent 600 a tyre

i have been driving a 205rwkw 33 for a long time and now a 223kw with no real traction problems USING HANCOOK TYRES.

they are shagged and i need new ones and i can still get the power to the ground.

i beleive the susp on my car is not stock and thats probably the difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...