Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Pod Filter


Recommended Posts

Thats why i didnt use a pod, im not one of those p platers that go around "Woah dude check out my new pod! Makes it so much more powerful". Everyone knows how hard it is to actually get a pod to receive cool air, obvs if your doing what your doing is good or sticking it in the standard air box if you can.

Id love a kakimoto exhaust but again yeah im saving money for when i get turbo, thats why im trying to find a cheap pair of GOOD rims cuz atm the previous owner stuck 17 chromies on it..... so idk what to do, im not gonna spend $1000 on rims...

Instead of trying to fit a pod filter into your airbox, why don't you just stick a standard replacement A360 filter in? You'll save $$$ in short and long run.

Then buy my R34 GT-R wheels :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Dude just get a brand new k&n panel filter from ebay, they're much cheaper than supercheap auto, some even come with the K&n cleaning kit. Looking at 50 dollars. Probs the only decent mod you could do to these cars without spending a ridiculous amount =p

As for rims, you could get some fake second hand RAYS for 500ish ;) Mate of mine got it for his r34

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/epping/wheels-tyres-rims/18-g-games-replica-wheels-suit-5x100-like-rays-forged-style/1018763835

Just an example =p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dude just get a brand new k&n panel filter from ebay, they're much cheaper than supercheap auto, some even come with the K&n cleaning kit. Looking at 50 dollars. Probs the only decent mod you could do to these cars without spending a ridiculous amount =p

As for rims, you could get some fake second hand RAYS for 500ish ;) Mate of mine got it for his r34

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/epping/wheels-tyres-rims/18-g-games-replica-wheels-suit-5x100-like-rays-forged-style/1018763835

Just an example =p

just lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just lol.

Haha well Spending 2000+ on real rays just isnt worth the money on a n/a skyline, considering the wheels alone will be worth 25% of the value of an n/a skyline, and the op did say he didnt want to spend 1000+ on new wheels so its a fair alternative.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about pod filters do nothing at all cuz theres no gain aother then increased engine noise and thats the placebo. Just take of the top part of the box to give a lil more flow and leave the standard panel filter in or get a highflower panel filter that will drop straight back in, also a neater look if u ask me and less chance of degect

^ Pod filters myth busted

^ Cold air intake myth busted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about pod filters do nothing at all cuz theres no gain aother then increased engine noise and thats the placebo. Just take of the top part of the box to give a lil more flow and leave the standard panel filter in or get a highflower panel filter that will drop straight back in, also a neater look if u ask me and less chance of degect

^ Pod filters myth busted

^ Cold air intake myth busted

Yes and MCM say that the standard filter is the best. Its a panel filter, hence why "get a K&N panel filter is the best option" its exactly same as the standard paper filters but is less restricitive

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

they do have their uses and sometimes there's no room to fit anything else. I wouldn't use the MCM vids as a rule for every car, it really depends on whether the stock intake tract is a restriction, which for the vast majority of imports (being small capacity or turbocharged) it isn't.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a few flaws in the mcm tests, so while they give a general basis to work off, they aren't gospel.

Well the benefits of OTR intakes have been proven by using both magnahelic gauges and dyno charts (on LS motors at least)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.
    • They absolutely are, but the thing is, if you're only exposed to these circuits for a while, what I normally think is good driving suddenly isn't so much. I was a pussy at the Nurburgring (GP) entering corners at 180kph - the difference in the balance of the car suddenly becomes so much more pronounced and I'm still a bit regarded at left-foot braking - something I now practice on my commute. So the (dream) plan with the E90 is to make it a 325i Cup car. Whether I get there or not is another matter. In my mind the simplicity of having the NA variant and cost made it a bit more appealing. Plus, like mentioned above, I'm actually too much of a pussy for big power. Of course I f**ked up by not researching enough on the N53 vs N52, the latter being more robust without the DI system.  Suspension-wise on the BMW, and I've been reading the technical requirements for the 325i cup, basically everything except struts has to be standard - bushes are free. I figure you get about 5-10mm adjustment with the rear camber bolts which should translate to 0.5- 1.5 degrees of adjustment. So with coilovers, lowered at 30/40mm I expect I can dial out some of the camber from a drop and attain -1.5 to -2. If necessary, I could get the same effect as the M3 arms with some offset bushes. There is a limitation on ARB width to qualify, although I absolutely want to get either M3 ARBs (can't say sway incase I upset GTSBoy) or the H&R ones - both of these are the cheapest options. Like mentioned, M3 arms are on the way and I should have them fitted within the next week. How are the BC Racing coilovers btw? Reviews are mixed but I think for me they would be fine; a friend of mine uses them on his R34 for track driving and has nothing bad to say. I'm looking at these or the ST coilovers (German brand, new to me) as prescriped the in Cup spec sheet. They're both similarly priced and offer camber adjustment. It's fine but it really upsets my OCD. I've got a couple of options for dialing out the rear camber and keeping my ill-fitting wheels: raise the rear a little bit, say 5mm, that should permit -2.5 camber or drop the front to restore that slight bias of more negative camber up front (not optimal with the roads here). The next alignment won't be until at least next year and I really need to rebuild the rear subframe. For now, I'm not using it at all on the streets except occasional blasts through the German countryside. I was covering about 10k kms p/year in Japan, I expect this to now be about 3-4k. You could say buy better sized wheels, and yes, I should have. But the wheels came from the Z and price of good wheels is just insane now. Again, a couple of options: get a new set (I want 17" RPF1s) or buy two used 9.5J TEs, both are about the same price excluding shipping. 
    • by rotating the motor i mean to dismount the plate on the motor and mount it different 
    • Sorry I meant to say, Is that $3,500 landed or is that just the sticker price in Japan? 
    • Same (except for the R32 bit), my son is saving for his first car which he hopes will be a Kouki V37 GT with the twin turbo 3.0L V6.... kids these days! My first car was a Renault 16 haha 😄 Sorry for the thread hijack
×
×
  • Create New...