Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seeing as i dropped my turbo today heres some of Scottys work

turbo_zps29964471.jpg

turbo2_zps1ab5b2c4.jpg

look at that entry path, how could it not work well....;)

That's some mighty fine workmanship there. Exactly as you stated how could that NOT work. Perfect gas flow both ways. Why would you bother running a waste gate off your manifold when you can have that :)

That's some mighty fine workmanship there. Exactly as you stated how could that NOT work. Perfect gas flow both ways. Why would you bother running a waste gate off your manifold when you can have that :)

heres mine for a single gated TS

wastegate pipe TS housing

20130508 123417

Edited by AngryRBGTX

haha yep sure is, its mounted on the 0.82TS gt30 bolted to a low mount 6boost, extreme stealth :ph34r:

i edited post, heres a pic from the top ...

post-70965-0-67284300-1368103924_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRBGTX

No it's off the housing Artz, so you found someone up there to fab my design ideas Mark? Looks great. Had it tuned yet?

I did a T67 this way not long ago, no results though. Using the gate as the bend makes the path as straight as it can be, especially if plumbing the screamer back.

Yeah i decided to just leave it in at a workshop, came highly recommended by MTQ, very appreciative of your fab ideas scotty, and to ARTS

for the Xspurts injectors ideas, :cheers:

will be a few weeks before its tuned, still got a few things to do yet but hopefully will start it up for the first time on the weekend :woot:

No it's off the housing Artz, so you found someone up there to fab my design ideas Mark? Looks great. Had it tuned yet?

I did a T67 this way not long ago, no results though. Using the gate as the bend makes the path as straight as it can be, especially if plumbing the screamer back.

Edited by AngryRBGTX

haha yep sure is, its mounted on the 0.82TS gt30 bolted to a low mount 6boost, extreme stealth :ph34r:

i edited post, heres a pic from the top ...

Heya Mark,

Does the dump/turbo setup touch any of the stock A/C lines or the A/C drain rubber hose? I've seen a few setups that end up toasting the A/C rubber drain..

and low mount looks teh secks... MOAR photos :)

its not touching any A/C lines but its close as you can see in the pics, i think insulating all the wires and a/c lines will be a good idea, im not finished yet,

going to do a proper heatshield over the manifold and then a big cold air intake box and feed plus painting all pipes black,

to me , it almost looks kind of stockish looking? or kinda close as these mods can be, the 4inch intake is a beauty :whistling:

Heya Mark,

Does the dump/turbo setup touch any of the stock A/C lines or the A/C drain rubber hose? I've seen a few setups that end up toasting the A/C rubber drain..

and low mount looks teh secks... MOAR photos :)

post-70965-0-64266400-1368164997_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Is that the manifold thats a real PITA to fit ?

Cheers A .

I don't see any probems,

although the ceramic coating was a slight PITA, had to sand it off in places to get the housing back on.. :closedeyes:

Edited by AngryRBGTX

By the way, I've got my wastegate mounted on my housing as well. Unfortunately it's not welded on as well as the one Scotty did, mine is at 90 degrees to the exhaust flow. It still holds boost in a perfectly flat line though, no creep. Will upload a graph on Tuesday/Wednesday when it is hopefully holding ~23psi dead flat ;)

By the way, I've got my wastegate mounted on my housing as well. Unfortunately it's not welded on as well as the one Scotty did, mine is at 90 degrees to the exhaust flow. It still holds boost in a perfectly flat line though, no creep. Will upload a graph on Tuesday/Wednesday when it is hopefully holding ~23psi dead flat ;)

that's interesting that it works on a 90deg angle, my tuners had situations like that where 6boost manifolds have had the gate at 90degrees and it will start boosting up to a bar with the gate not even attached but then theres guys that have zero problems, i didn't want to take any chances so i put the gate on the housing to make sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...