Jump to content
SAU Community

Forced Performance Hta Turbos


Recommended Posts

On 15/02/2024 at 8:35 AM, Lithium said:

I'll have to get some logs when I do a little bit more work on an R34 GT-R I've been helping set up.

So we had a bit of a session today and didn't have much chance to test it perfectly for the point of this thread but the theme seemed to be it can hit 1bar close enough to 4000rpm in 3rd gear, give or take a little and man it feels a lot perkier between 3000-4000 than the -5s.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 15/02/2024 at 8:35 AM, Lithium said:

I'll have to get some logs when I do a little bit more work on an R34 GT-R I've been helping set up.  Stock engine, 272deg cams, and a divided hotside Pulsar G35 900 with .85a/r T4 divided hotside and it drives fantastic - it's enough of an improvement over the old -5s that no data is really needed from our point of view to make a call on whether it's more responsive under foot to drive but boost threshold is always a handy metric.  

I'm far from saying that the G35 would be a good choice for the kind of thing you're looking into, more what I'm suggesting is "G-series" turbos seem to respond very well to divided hotsides and middling a/rs (obviously ensuring that it's not so small as to choke the given setup).   If a static cam RB26 drives like this R34 does with a 80+lb/min turbo, then I can imagine a 60lb/min equivalent match on a VCT RB25 would be fantastic. 

Interesting (but I suppose not massively surprising) the dyno plot doesn't put this car across as THAT much better down low than it was with the -5s, the old "transient response" beast back with a vengeance.  I guess you'll have to take my (and every other person who has been in or driven it) word that the car is a completely different beast now, feels WAY more alive basically everywhere.   Holds power better, "wakes up" faster under foot.  It's generally a significantly faster and better car to drive, beyond what the plot shows.

Anyway, only changes here are swapping from low mount -5s to a Pulsar G35 900, and from a stock Nissan RB26 intake manifold to a Hypertune single throttle jobby.   On the dyno pull it doesn't really pick up noticeably harder until it's got about 10psi into it, then it gets from there up to target boost a good 500rpm earlier. 

Same boost, same fuel (98 pump gas), same dyno:
image.thumb.png.dd04a716f335b23af26c41d575161562.png
Note: This is both 22psi.  It's a stock RB26 aside from cams, the turbo was chosen for headroom - and there should be HEAPS in it with a built engine and ethanol flowing through it's veins.

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Interesting (but I suppose not massively surprising) the dyno plot doesn't put this car across as THAT much better down low than it was with the -5s, the old "transient response" beast back with a vengeance.  I guess you'll have to take my (and every other person who has been in or driven it) word that the car is a completely different beast now, feels WAY more alive basically everywhere.   Holds power better, "wakes up" faster under foot.  It's generally a significantly faster and better car to drive, beyond what the plot shows.

This is what I was getting to with regards to the whole N/A V8 thing. A dyno shows the result as much worse, but in terms of how 'alive' the car feels afterwards, it's night and day, better in every way, there's no copium, I prefer my 280kw setup over my 430kw setup.

image.thumb.jpeg.cc4c2920010bd041d97372a939f3a07c.jpeg

This was me doing predictions before I did the swap, I make about ~10kw more everywhere than the blue line, but chalk and cheese in terms of liveliness. I understand what Lithium is trying to say with his dyno graphs that look mostly the same in his case, but one is vastly superior in the real world. The blue line looks laughably bad on the dyno graph in my case, which really highlights the point.

People absolutely, absolutely, completely underrate how important transient response is to how much fun a car is, how it feels, and how much you can trust a car, which means you can drive the thing faster, and if you are going faster and using 70% of the throttle, and trusting, and pushing, it's a far more fun, complete, and faster experience than feeling like you can't go beyond 50% of your throttle use but damn your dyno plot looks great.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...