Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Well I caught the track / drags / hill climb bug! And no matter how hard I tried it wouldn’t go away.

So instead of wrecking my 33 GTR I decided to find a cheap alternative.
Yes i know people have said im doing it wrong, track the GTR and use the GTST as the daily but my thinking is the gtst wont be as expensive to fix and maintain as the GTR.

I came across a midnight purple series2 R33 40th anniversary that had been defected.

Very neat, very straight and almost standard. Even the interior was very neat. What it was defected for was rubbish, almost too nice to destroy.

Here it is next to its bigger brother

382732_10152860168465215_658209033_n_zps

378142_10152860170380215_402905547_n_zps

20130527_080652_zps04ffa3d5.jpg

I forgot to take a pic of the inside before i started to strip it.

Going to strip it back to metal and once i can work out what and where half the wires run to, rewire the rear of the car.

Pics of starting to strip

20130530_221034_zpsc14849b9.jpg

20130530_221027_zps8ba3e681.jpg

20130530_221022_zpsda54c5d8.jpg

And now the mess in my shed!

20130530_220942_zps52a3c038.jpg

I decided the 40th anniversary front bar was in way to good of nick to destroy! Hadnt been cut no cracks etc.

So ive removed it. Unsure of what bar to put back yet

20130603_165329_zps6474557e.jpg

Heres her currently with her face off

20130602_185347_zps14bd6a1e.jpg

And thats where im up to after a week and a bit of owning it.

The short term plans are to finish stripping the interior, get rid of the sound deadener and try and work out what the wiring does running down the sides of the cars interior. Then remove most and re wire etc. Something tells me im going to hate doing it :/ / getting it to work at all!

And winter can feel free to piss off!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426393-r33-gtst-series-2-track-build/
Share on other sites

Thanks mate.

No problems ran well very clean very straight good paint no dents. Even the interior was good.

It was defected tho. But if I spent less then a 1000 it would get put back on the road. Bought it for 3900

Try BOC gases for dry ice. It's definitely the easiest way for the majority, have tried a heat gun and it gets really messy.

Some of the pads are made of something different like the ones either side of your gear stick in the pic. The dry ice doesn't work on those.

If you can get your hands on a power chisel it will get the other stuff off no sweat.

Once trick for a good job is if the dry ice is frozen and not coming off with gentle persuasion, there is usually some glue / sealer in there. Go for the power chisel on those spots rather than going nuts with a hammer trying to crack it.

... and there is no way around it - cleaning it up afterwards takes ages - carby cleaner works the best I have found - about 10 cans of it. Not sure about long term health effects though!

Otherwise just do what you can and paint over the rest.

Thanks mate, im hopefully finishing up removing stuff this long weekend. Then will get dry ice the following weekend hopefully.

Im really not looking forward to it as im pretty fussy in general.

I think a tradie mate of mine has a power chiesl will give him a buzz

With the long weekend done and dusted i didnt get as much done as i would have liked...

But the aircon is finally all out! Inside and under the bonnet. Will admit it took longer and harder then id like to admit.

Also removed the alarm.

post-33454-0-24918500-1370915176_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-31287700-1370915197_thumb.jpg

  • 5 months later...

Not much of an update, been to busy finishing my gtr!

Bought a gtr ztune bonnet and do luck bonnet lip for the track car, test fit on the GTR and fits amazing! Surprised actually!

Was going to leave it on the gtr it fit that well, but weight saving would be small if any plus unwanted daily driving attention!

Also added a $2 body kit just for shits and giggles.... and yes was all for $2! Will now remove the OEM GTR spoiler and find something else....

At this stage i think ive just destroyed a neat series 2! Long way to go!

post-33454-0-75517000-1386557663_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-28237000-1386557678_thumb.jpg

Continued the work on the car...

Started removing all wires that arent needed.. not quite half way through. long way to go!

1467212_619547654748030_1296171376_n_zps

Also will be removing the OEM gtr spoiler... have undone all the bolts but its still stuck on nice and tight.

Guessing its just stickoflex holding it on??

1451442_10153596740440215_1458560811_n_z

If it's a factory GT-R spoiler on a factory boot and hasn't been removed then it's just very stick double sided tape. Best method is to use fishing line and run that through (you have to go around the bolts and little plastic clips though).

Was bored last night so did this.... lol not sure i like it at all... un-tinted yet but dont think ill go any further anyway....

So an hour to destroy a perfectly good tail light lol..... seems like the way its going... 3 to 6 months destroying a perfectly neat series 2!!! haha

1390735_10153627884870215_149293855_n_zp

1521864_10153627885115215_1650278524_n_z

1515037_10153627884985215_1995270513_n_z

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...