Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is vct working correctly. That looks like pretty lazy response.

If im honest i dont know whats up.

Dex is unsure also. Dunno where to go from here... Will give it a burst at the drags and see what i think

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Well i cant take a trick.

Took both cars down to the drags sat. And both went poorly!

The torana had 2 runs in and on the second run broke the casting around the alternator and had to coast it home as it was getting hot.

And worse for the Skyline. 1st gear and second gear ran beautifully. But as soon as you but it into 3rd, or 4th, it coughed spluttered and backfired. No acceleration and breaking down something shocking. needless to say nearly $1500 worth of tunning and its still not right. Unsure what the problem was...

So the torana ran a 12.1 which was shocking and the skyline a 13.5 which again was no where near it for either! Only positive is 13.5 isnt bad for coasting from just over the half way point... hopefully see a high 11 out of it

Back to the drawing board tho!!

f852d7b0-85b5-4114-897c-db454a0a6f2a_zps

10314721_10155469568005215_8128212863039

10421201_10203815518177461_2508079496922

Without reading anything in the thread. Main reasons for it being laggy.

Exhaust restriction, cam timing, poor tune, VCT issue. It will most likely be one of those.

Thanks mate, will take it somewhere else to get a second opinion on tune etc.

haha defs not an exhaust restriction as it only has about 3 feet of exhaust

  • 4 months later...

Long time coming but i got the car tuned, again. This time by a different tuner and to say it was tuned badly seems an understatement.

Havent had a chance to take it out to the drags again but have a drift prac day coming up in 3 weeks i think, so will test it out then

attached the new dyno print out

post-33454-0-75076200-1440467476_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-43456200-1440467490_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Well took it drifting sat.....

could be over kill for me trying to learn lol...

Jumped in a few other cars with much less power and some MUCH more responsive and made learning easier.

But damn was it fun / fast!

The clutch either let go at the end of the day or the spoigot is sticking or something. so will have to fix that. but the poor little thing got a hammering and ran well all day.

The tidy up will start soon. trying to source a r33 gtr front bumper and also some head lights....

Will post pics as i can find them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...