Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had the oznats over the weekend...

The car wasnt finished but just bolted it together... need to finish the interior and the front end , side skirts etc etc

Have to sort out my traction issues. Even with slicks i cant keep the power down. If you listen to the video im constantly on and off throttle and constantly loosing traction. even on the well prepped drag strip. any ideas would be great

video-1477097823.mp4

  • 7 months later...
On 25/08/2015 at 11:21 AM, Adz2332 said:

Long time coming but i got the car tuned, again. This time by a different tuner and to say it was tuned badly seems an understatement.

Havent had a chance to take it out to the drags again but have a drift prac day coming up in 3 weeks i think, so will test it out then

attached the new dyno print out

post-33454-0-75076200-1440467476_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-43456200-1440467490_thumb.jpg

 

Who did the good tune ?

On 28/04/2014 at 0:51 PM, Adz2332 said:

stripping down the engine at the moment. removing things i dont need and getting it ready for.....

20140425_132205_zps5265e3d5.jpg

This.....

20140425_095731_zps5d9d2432.jpg

HTA3076R

also have a trial waste gate, dump, 6boost mani and screamer

10307394_10154088892755215_2184393771918

 

I wanted an FP HTA turbo before i got mucked around and sent a wrong turbo.  Nice to see it made plenty of power

  • 4 weeks later...

Put on some AR1s  285s all round and went and did a track day at mallala on sat.

was a blast. car went really well and the tyres were excellent for the price

i now need to upgrade the brakes as it boiled its guts out and lost all braking by the end. and also get some coilovers to

But was a great day! 

19399721_10158955302765215_7190593453162086498_n.jpg

19400561_10155157369429550_3670939122459634837_o.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

forgot to add.

had the VCT sorted working and tuned before the track day. You could see a bit of a difference on the dyno print out. but the butt dyno it made a hell of a difference. felt boost came on so much earlier and smoother. made the car so much easier to drive and so much quicker all round.

Funny how much it changed the whole feeling of the car

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

currently getting parts together for a rb25/30 build.

so far have a 30 block

my rb25 head, 6boost main, plazaman plenum, 1000cc injectors, computer etc etc

have to work out, pistons, bearings, rods etc

want to go big to hold 450kws ish...

 

any links or builds i should look at?

8 minutes ago, Adz2332 said:

any links or builds i should look at?

No, but we did one earlier this year so I've got a fairly good handle on what's needed. We used a stock bottom end (found an RB30 bottom end that had never been run). 

It's the little things that you'll need to sort out:

- the oil feed for the VCT (the machine shop we use has done quite a few 25/30's & knows what's needed),

-what you do with the cold start crap and associated hoses (we removed pretty much all of it, and don't regret it),

-coolant lines on the intake side (once again we got rid of some),

-the oil drain / breather on the front exhaust side (RB30 block doesn't have the port for this),

-engine mounts / raising the bonnet (we kept the mounts stock, and raised the rear of the bonnet with some spacers under the hinges - also had to ditch the strut tower brace. Didn't want to lower the mounts as we have an extended sump, and didn't want it to be the lowest part of the car),

-the dump pipe (had to cut & extend ours, as turbo was now 40mm higher),

-you'll probably need a new RB30 water pump (the RB25 one has a slotted hole, which doesn't quite cover the water channel in the block - ask me how I know),

-the intake piping (once again because the top of our engine was higher, we needed longer intake pipe silicone joiners on the intake pipes, just above the exhaust manifold. Had to buy a 1 metre length as we couldn't find the right size in smaller lengths),

-you will need to buy a second timing belt tensioner & a longer timing belt

-intake side wiring - we had to make up some extended loom mounts because the head was now higher.

 

I can't think of anything else at the moment. If you want the machine shop's contact details let me know - he's in Pooraka. We are loving the engine - the torque delivery is beautiful.

looking at some budget coils.

Monopro Type Coilovers- Street/Track

http://www.option1garage.com.au/HSD.htm

or

http://www.option1garage.com.au/BCRacing.htm

BR Series Street and Circuit Coilover

 

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...