Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New pickup. Twice as big as stock, but using same diameter feed to the sump so will just help prevent blockages. Hopefully see improvements in flow and amount of oil in the sump, as you cant fit a larger sump because it always fouls on the lower crossmember

IMG_0076_zps53a409c1.jpg

IMG_0077_zpse2616173.jpg

Just gotta fit the intake side of things, replace any old hoses and damaged clamps... then its time to focus on the engine bay.

stock compression on GTiR is 8.3:1. Normal SR20DET is 8.5:1 but GTiR has larger combustion chamber so it drops off a bit. Even the CP 9:1 pistons was around 8.8:1. The pistons I'm using a stock replacements, but machined the head down to 20 thou protrusion (i think) which pumped it up to higher than the original CP setup.

the pistons with 10+:1 are more for DE and VE heads. but you'd have to back off the boost anyway? Not planning on making much more power, just hoping for more useable torque. Wont be running E85 just yet if thats what you're asking. Not many documented, tracked pulsars on E85. I know of one, and his hasnt run the same since. We'll see how this setup goes with the current turbo first on 98, and will weigh up E85 later.

A mate on here is running an NX coupe on E85. I'm pretty sure it's a standard pulsar motor with a t28 and that makes 170fwkw+.

does he have a sequential box on it? or is it street driven?

still tempted for E85, but exhaust isnt stainless and still not sure how the turbo would go with the extra power from new engine and new fuel.

  • 2 weeks later...

ahk, just i know a dude with a tracked NX coupe turbo on E85.

another pulsar recently upgraded from a GT2871r to a GTX2863r. so im pretty jealous. I had weighed up going GTX if turbo struggled with new setup, but I'm pretty keen on going that way down the track now regardless lol. So GTX2867 sometime down the track I reckon!

anyway, was feeling depressed so went to see the car.

IMG_0096_zpsbd2c3da5.jpg

IMG_0097_zps306ca9b2.jpg

IMG_0098_zpsf1c3b11d.jpg

Motor is bolted up with clutch, flywheel and gearbox. Now cleaning out all the oil lines and oil cooler. Lots of shit in there, so good to get it out.

The oil cooler, lines and filter relocation kit were full of chunks. so now that its done, engine is in :D

IMG_0106_zps2fdadc4e.jpg

Filling the gearbox with some Neo 70W95HD: the good shit.

IMG_0107_zps1e9dfd5b.jpg

couple of little jobs I was hoping to get sorted before its started up, so might be a little bit longer before run-in.

one is to re-do the heatwrap as it came off at a DECA

IMG_0109_zpsfde0cfdc.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Car was started for the first time yesterday, started first time which is good.

Sorted out a number of little things the last week or two. Short shifter rattling, reverse switch on gearbox, new distributor cap, and new heat wrap.

Pick up the car tomorrow, then go for the run-in tune.

Plans for work before next track day at Sandown on 21st December: shift light installed, rev limiter installed, remove sound deadening and give the car a good f**king wash cause its filthy. Also need new intake pipe made up, air filter housing, new tow hook, desperately need a new catch can setup as it just doesnt work... the list goes on. But we're getting there.

Had a few issues with the alternator belt again, the dump pipe fouls on it a fair bit so tough to get belts on and tighten then. Sorted the issue by grinding off a protruding stud for the earth, but new heat wrap is double layered, so its just as bad now lol. hope I dont snap a belt soon (happened once before at Sandown)

also made a "suketi" kit out of a spare indicator. needs some touch-up paint, but does the job.

image_zps0dbe3c19.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

new heat wrap and alternator clearance. lightly touches the heat wrap (which is double layered) but will keep an eye on it if it starts coming loose.
IMG_0140_zps39ade1c5.jpg
Car was carted off last week to Ace Dyno & workshop but he was pretty busy prepping cars for SAU Nats.
Got my "roadworthy" muffler on, which is basically a stock muffler with 3-2.5" reducer and 2.5" tip. just to remove some attention during run-in.
IMG_0867_zps2b52d4eb.jpg
Theres been some delays this week. Had issues with the AFM, luckily I had ordered a spare Z32 AFM which arrived on Friday... then go to fit it and see that the plugs are different *sigh*
No idea what type of AFM was there. Its exactly the same size and element but a different plug. Suspect an RB25 AFM, as RB30 same plug as Z32 and VQ30 is a bit bigger in diameter. And of course the pin lugs are different again so has to be rewired. Managed to find a Z32 plug at a local mechanic but had very little wire left on it to solder. Gave up (because Friday afternoon) and will sort it Monday. *hopefully* tuned by Tuesday.
Got heaps of pics from the builders, but just sharing things I havent got already...
so one oil squirter was destroyed by rogue piston, the other snapped when they fitting it to the new block. So made custom steel ones with a larger diameter and angled for piston clearance
P7170027_zps163dbc29.jpg
comparison
P7170032_zpsbfa6dbcf.jpg
Studs, pistons, rods, 2nd hand crank (fair bit of work getting that up to scratch), bearings
SR20BuildkitRace_zpsb5d5ea9b.jpg
theres the porting job
P9240059_zpsae10800a.jpg
previous chain on the left, new OEM chain on right. Frank requested a new OEM chain as he didnt have much faith in the aftermarket one which had a removable link. a cool $230 from Nissan
P9250062_zps81276204.jpg
bottom end
Blockwithcrank_zps2e60e411.jpg
flywheel and clutch fitted
PA140013_zps1cbf5e77.jpg
going into the car
PA180038_zps5f56e577.jpg
So big thanks to Frank and Michael from Headspec. If they had stickers, I'd be sporting one on the side of the car.
  • Like 1

previous chain on the left, new OEM chain on right. Frank requested a new OEM chain as he didnt have much faith in the aftermarket one which had a removable link. a cool $230 from Nissan

P9250062_zps81276204.jpg

It must have burnt handing over that kind of cash for what is essentially a slightly beefier bicycle chain. Ouch!

Engine looks the goods, I like those custom oil squirters, I wonder if they flow the same as stock?

higher flow than stock. thinner because steal but opening and overall diameter is larger

ad yeah can get the chain from the US for $90-100 but oh we'll. they didn't ask for it so I didn't go hunting

  • 3 weeks later...
got the car back today, exciting. feels like theres so much to do now, but anyway.


tuning was no problems, had to sit on the dyno running in for 1-2 hours because the motor was starting to behave and requiring less and less fuel to keep going. Anthony from Ace decided to not use the O2 sensor (not quite sure why) and also disconnected the boost controller and just used the actuator by itself, which was then set to 8psi. The head is trying to breathe a hell of a hot, so PCV removed and is currently venting to atmos via a filter, but eventually will be blocked off and fed through a decent catch can (then drained to the block and the stock air/oil separator removed).


Everyone is happy at the moment, which is good. Its a very basic tune, just let the motor do what it wants (except rev :P rev limiter set to 6500) but the base map has been set and just needs the boost controller hooked up and then time to wind it up. Anthony thinks the turbo will be just fine and should put some impressive figures with some more juice. I still think a GTX would be nice for better response, control and efficiency + better exhaust manifold.


power vs. torque. as you can see its pretty lazy, but not slow (power axis markers arent set properly i dont think). 160 with 8psi isnt too shabby

IMG_0160_zpse2a0a29e.jpg


manifold pressure vs. air fuel ratio. looked a bit funny to me, but was assured its just a cruising afr for down low so naturally the cams are pretty lacking down low.

IMG_0159_zps21850344.jpg


have order the GTX2867R with 0.86A/R, comes with a standard turbine housing and actuator so I can use the same dump pipe and try to sell the old turbo as a whole.

Also order a manifold from AM Performance. we'll see how that goes when it turns up. I'll get the manifold and turbo HPC coated in the new year, but plan to do some comparisons with full boost on current GT2871R with stock manifold.



gtir%20man%201.jpg?itok=PgIzy8lV

  • Like 1

Mm build thread looking jooocy

What power figures you expecting on the current turbo? And then what power figure you expecting on the GTX2867R? What max boost you think on the gtx for you? Up to say 24psi?

Mm build thread looking jooocy

What power figures you expecting on the current turbo? And then what power figure you expecting on the GTX2867R? What max boost you think on the gtx for you? Up to say 24psi?

hmmm well going off the previous tunes the 2871 has pretty much done its thing by 200kw or so, and then cams take over. So with the new cams, maybe 240fwkw?

New turbo + manifold hoping for much sooner spool up and to make a solid 250kw, but I'll leave it at that. Don't need much more and gearbox becomes a liability. I'd be happy with anything over 420Nm and a flat curve.

was going to remove some sound deadening today, but the local BOC ran out of dry ice. oh well, just about to get started on washing/waxing the car. Still on the hunt for something to clean the TE37's which are an anodized (aluminium I'm guessing?) bronze.

tune was done on the road-worthy, pea-shooter 2.5" muffler, so swapped over to the 3" straight through for track day next week. gave it a squick polish


IMG_0161_zps59c0c3b7.jpg

IMG_0162_zpsb49b31e5.jpg


peashooter

IMG_0163_zpsc4b44d6b.jpg



IMG_0167_zpsc57506bc.jpg


ordered on Friday, assembled and ready to pick-up on Monday. was tossing up whether to get the turbine housing HPC coated, dont know if i can be bothered. Will just get the new manifold done locally in silver. The trim is quite large compared to the 2871. Might run into clearance issues with the updated garrett actuator setup, but we'll see.


IMG_0168_zpse6642822.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Car behaved well at Sandown, nice temps, steady oil pressure, didnt notice any blow-by, suspension is terrific and brakes weren't too bad. Overall very pleased.

Hit the 1000kms on New Years Eve so will drain the 5W40 Motul 8000 thats in there now, chuck on a greddy filter and probably run some 10W40 Penrite racing stuff. Talking to engine builders and they suggested thicker than 5W because of the larger internals clearances. We'll see how it goes anyway.

before the track day (around 300kms old) dropped the initial run-in oil and filter, just some 5W40 Burson's full synthetic. Magnetic sump plug had a clump of metal on it, but when sifting through it with a rag, was just very very fine shavings. no visible pieces.

IMG_0923_zpsc29cfd63.jpg

Had 2 afternoons spare to tackle the sound deadening in the boot. Bought some dry ice that worked on the stock stuff, however did not work on the aftermarket deadening. Was easier just to scrape/lever off with a large screwdriver. The entire boot and wheel arches were layered in the stuff. yaaaayyy

IMG_0915_zpscb67aa37.jpg

IMG_0921_zps42a7c067.jpg

IMG_0170_zps05aecd08.jpg

Been using a nylon brush drill bit to try to get the glue off, but battery drill hasnt got enough balls. Will try again with something beefier.

Also grabbed a Momo steering wheel off a USDM Primera P11 because old steering wheel had no grip left on it and Momo has a better grip shape. Had to swap the airbag controller modules over (Pulsar has 1 airbag, Primera has 2) and locktite + torx bits are a bitch.

IMG_0176_zpse9691355.jpg

IMG_0177_zps725cfa6a.jpg

So just waiting on the new turbo manifold to arrive, get it coated, then off to road to fit it + new turbo + redo intercooler piping + solve crankcase venting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...